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giralfino 18th February 2010 03:29 PM

How to cut holes for drivers with truncated frame
Hi all,

I would like to countersink a driver with a truncated frame (Peerless 830875), but I don't know how to do the non circular cutout in the baffle. I successfully used a hand router with a simple jig (wood and nail) for round cutouts. Filling the part is not an option.

Thanks, Ralf

trd1587 18th February 2010 03:59 PM

use the jigsaw with a guide. If teh guide is not attached to the saw, make one yourself out of a straight edge that you clip to you piece you need to cut

Edit: You can use your router the way also. A straight edge on the outside off the router parrallel to your cutting.

I Hope you understand What I try to explain. I know a drawing would be better, but I suck big time at that.

smokinghot 18th February 2010 07:04 PM

Well assuming you're using more than one driver in your project, I'd suggest making a jig to guide a "flush trim bit" used in your router. Something that you'll have to design to be be easily clamped to your baffle, and have markings to ensure alignment.

Most routers can use an edge guide like this, (trd's suggestion):

Use that guide to develop your truncated edges, and a standard circle jig for the rest.

Jigsaws are messy, and if you do develop a jig any rough cuts will be transferred to your baffle.

rabbitz 19th February 2010 12:09 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Make a jig and use a jig guide on the router (see pic). The jig is cut oversize and is related to the bit size and jig guide collar.

Some builders are tricky and route out the round hole but use mouldings in the vertical edges of the speaker which gives the flat surface. See this example from Andy G.
Andy G's Trinity

giralfino 19th February 2010 12:47 PM

Thanks for the suggestions.
So the difficult task is to make a good jig.


AndrewT 19th February 2010 12:50 PM

and the sharp corners will need hand finishing.

rabbitz 20th February 2010 11:59 AM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by giralfino (
Thanks for the suggestions.
So the difficult task is to make a good jig.


It's no problem with a good jigsaw as you can cut within 0.5mm easily. I use 8mm MDF for the jig and use a 6mm or 8mm bit to do the rebate. I tend to cause more damage to the jig by sanding over the cut a bit to exuberantly.... better left as cut as the router jig guide tends to glide over any anomalies due to the larger radius.

You can use the tweeter mounting holes to locate and hold the jig but generally clamps work well. The jig just has to be large enough so the clamps are away from the router base. Cleats can also be screwed on the underside to lock on the side etc of the enclosure so there is no movement.

A test run on some scrap material is advisable but I generally just get into the enclosure.

You want to try a rebate for a Vifa D26NC with a square heatsink as it's a job from hell. :mad:

Here's some rebated HDS drivers and one also has the tweeter rebate done via a jig due to the flat edge on the faceplate.

trd1587 20th February 2010 01:04 PM

Ok Next exercisse is to flush mount 'em!

stephenmarklay 20th February 2010 04:17 PM

Thanks guys... This thread had good timing. I am mounting a non round frame from the back with 1/4 rebate to get the tweeter/woofer distance correct for the crossover.

I just ordered a guide bushing set and will go dust of my jig saw.

rabbitz 21st February 2010 03:52 AM


Originally Posted by trd1587 (
Ok Next exercisse is to flush mount 'em!

Not sure what you mean but they are rebated so they are flush mounted.... ie in line with the baffle.

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