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Old 4th March 2010, 03:01 AM   #11
trd1587 is offline trd1587  Canada
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Yeah on post #7 the tweeter seems flush to the front.
The other driver's setup makes it in part outside the housing. (if you look from the top 90 degrees to the bottom.) Would it had been possible to put that driver inside half an inch so that the rubber\foam forming the outside suspension of the driver would come
flush the the enclosure when at rest?
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Old 4th March 2010, 06:01 AM   #12
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
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With that you would end up with a gutter (moat) between the edge of the basket and surround. AFAIK, having the surround extending past the baffle has no detrimental effect and is how 99% of speakers are built.

The HDS drivers do have a chamfer near the edge so even when rebated the basket still extends past the baffle. Drivers such as the PL18 etc can have the basket completely flush but the surround of course still sits proud. The 18W8531 has a radius on the basket so the edge can only be flush and the basket near the surround is about 3mm away from the baffle.

The main thing is to rebate the tweeter and it is not important for the mid woofer. I've built plenty of speaker with the HDS not rebated with no detrimental effects. Some who do that turn the driver 90 (also helps with smaller driver centres) to what I have done and place foam on the flat edge below the tweeter.
HDS with foam on top

I have also left mid woofers non rebated so I can get closer driver spacings as the mid woofer basket overlaps the tweeter faceplate similar to some of the Dynaudio speakers.

What is more important is to get the driver centres correct and for lower order crossovers, the driver offset. There is a study that has been commenced by Troels (maybe his next speaker is going to be a low order crossover going by his recent studies).
Troelsgravesen stepped baffle study
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Last edited by rabbitz; 4th March 2010 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 4th March 2010, 08:29 AM   #13
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Originally Posted by rabbitz View Post
I have also left mid woofers non rebated so I can get closer driver spacings as the mid woofer basket overlaps the tweeter faceplate similar to some of the Dynaudio speakers
I did the same on my last full range speaker build.
I did think about cutting a radius in the tweeter mounting plate to allow the mid driver to be flush and closer centre to centre. Too much work. Try the simple way first. It seemed to work OK.
regards Andrew T.
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Old 5th March 2010, 06:38 AM   #14
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
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Yeah.... some of the simple solutions tend to get ignored because they are.... er simple.
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Old 10th May 2010, 03:12 PM   #15
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As mentioned, I think this driver is fine for surface mounting. But, if you really want to flush mount it, here's one option for either the baffle or a template:

1. Use a board just a hair wider than the width of the driver at the flat portion and use a circle jig to cut the diameter of the driver at the non-flat part. If cutting the baffle, then just cut the recess here, if making a template, you'll need to clamp/fasten both the top and bottom piece and cut a circle all the way through.

2. If making a baffle (not template) then now cut the through hole. If making a template, ignore this step.

3. Now, glue a board the same thickness on either side. Now, you have a perfect baffle or template with nice sharp "corners". No "free hand" cutting needed, so you don't have as much worry about having a very steady hand...

Rabbitz, thanks for posting that link, great little article.
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Old 11th May 2010, 02:53 PM   #16
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The router template can be easily made by starting out from a round template, and then gluing two parallel wood strips on it. The template should be thinner than the router's foot for this to work.

Never send a human to do a machine's job. --Agent Smith
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