How to cut holes for drivers with truncated frame - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Construction Tips

Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 4th March 2010, 03:01 AM   #11
trd1587 is offline trd1587  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
trd1587's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Thurso, Quebec, Canada
Yeah on post #7 the tweeter seems flush to the front.
The other driver's setup makes it in part outside the housing. (if you look from the top 90 degrees to the bottom.) Would it had been possible to put that driver inside half an inch so that the rubber\foam forming the outside suspension of the driver would come
flush the the enclosure when at rest?
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th March 2010, 06:01 AM   #12
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
rabbitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
With that you would end up with a gutter (moat) between the edge of the basket and surround. AFAIK, having the surround extending past the baffle has no detrimental effect and is how 99% of speakers are built.

The HDS drivers do have a chamfer near the edge so even when rebated the basket still extends past the baffle. Drivers such as the PL18 etc can have the basket completely flush but the surround of course still sits proud. The 18W8531 has a radius on the basket so the edge can only be flush and the basket near the surround is about 3mm away from the baffle.

The main thing is to rebate the tweeter and it is not important for the mid woofer. I've built plenty of speaker with the HDS not rebated with no detrimental effects. Some who do that turn the driver 90 (also helps with smaller driver centres) to what I have done and place foam on the flat edge below the tweeter.
HDS with foam on top

I have also left mid woofers non rebated so I can get closer driver spacings as the mid woofer basket overlaps the tweeter faceplate similar to some of the Dynaudio speakers.

What is more important is to get the driver centres correct and for lower order crossovers, the driver offset. There is a study that has been commenced by Troels (maybe his next speaker is going to be a low order crossover going by his recent studies).
Troelsgravesen stepped baffle study
__________________
No longer DIY active

Last edited by rabbitz; 4th March 2010 at 06:04 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th March 2010, 08:29 AM   #13
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbitz View Post
I have also left mid woofers non rebated so I can get closer driver spacings as the mid woofer basket overlaps the tweeter faceplate similar to some of the Dynaudio speakers
I did the same on my last full range speaker build.
I did think about cutting a radius in the tweeter mounting plate to allow the mid driver to be flush and closer centre to centre. Too much work. Try the simple way first. It seemed to work OK.
__________________
regards Andrew T.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th March 2010, 06:38 AM   #14
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
rabbitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Yeah.... some of the simple solutions tend to get ignored because they are.... er simple.
__________________
No longer DIY active
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th May 2010, 03:12 PM   #15
diyAudio Member
 
critofur's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Send a message via AIM to critofur Send a message via MSN to critofur Send a message via Yahoo to critofur
As mentioned, I think this driver is fine for surface mounting. But, if you really want to flush mount it, here's one option for either the baffle or a template:

1. Use a board just a hair wider than the width of the driver at the flat portion and use a circle jig to cut the diameter of the driver at the non-flat part. If cutting the baffle, then just cut the recess here, if making a template, you'll need to clamp/fasten both the top and bottom piece and cut a circle all the way through.

2. If making a baffle (not template) then now cut the through hole. If making a template, ignore this step.

3. Now, glue a board the same thickness on either side. Now, you have a perfect baffle or template with nice sharp "corners". No "free hand" cutting needed, so you don't have as much worry about having a very steady hand...

Rabbitz, thanks for posting that link, great little article.
__________________
Critofur
http://www.ohmspeakers.com <- all the folks here are my friends
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2010, 02:53 PM   #16
diyAudio Member
 
kavermei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lokeren, Belgium
Send a message via MSN to kavermei
The router template can be easily made by starting out from a round template, and then gluing two parallel wood strips on it. The template should be thinner than the router's foot for this to work.

Kenneth
__________________
Never send a human to do a machine's job. --Agent Smith
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Who can cut holes? smellygas Multi-Way 8 2nd August 2009 08:17 PM
What tool to cut baffle holes? kvk Full Range 24 4th April 2008 05:18 PM
8" Drivers for a small U-Frame Tenson Multi-Way 11 7th January 2007 02:27 AM
re-use DCM time frame drivers quiet Multi-Way 3 27th February 2006 03:11 AM
How to cut holes for tubes woody Tubes / Valves 23 23rd December 2004 07:24 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:40 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2