I want to change my DCX2496 to all flat or minimal gloss black. I don't care about the button labels. What is the best cost effective way to do this anyone? I read to clean, use etching primer and then it said latex but WTF @ latex... isn't that easy to scratch off??? I expect that such a mod will bring subtle but significant improvements to dynamic range. Thanks for any suggestions!
self etching primer is correct. after that use a compatible paint, a spray paint is fine, but test it first on something else - you might end up with a crinkle finish otherwise. this assumes raw aluminum not anodized aluminum. latex paint is nuts. the coating on the Behringer is likely not anodized at all, but an epoxy paint that is like what is on soda cans... etching primer won't get you anywhere unless you abrade this off... this assumes the panel is actually aluminum and not a fancy plastic!
best to find out what ur working with first.
best to find out what ur working with first.
I took a mounting bracket off, touched to mains and no spark. Scratched it up a bit and did same. Big spark. So it is metal, probably aluminum but coated.
I like the powder coat idea I think. I guess for that I have to make sure it is scuffed down perfectly?
Thanks guys!
The Rustoleum flat black is just that. Flat. Very flat. Like chalkboard flat. Personally, I prefer their satin black (I believe it's in their American Accents series) as it has a very, very slight sheen to it. I've used those products with the Rustoleum Professional primer and it seems to stick on aluminum just fine. I'm not associated with Rustoleum, I've just had good luck with their products.
Another option would be to have the parts thrown in a tumbler with some of those little ceramic rocks and then have them anodized and died black.
~Tom
Another option would be to have the parts thrown in a tumbler with some of those little ceramic rocks and then have them anodized and died black.
~Tom
i have done this on anodized alu panels,
first i sanded with a medium grit sand paper, then cleaned with white sprit/paint stripper, then with washing up liquid. i then used auto paint primer from a rattle can. several coats of primer and sanding with a fine grit paper.
then again auto paint, in my case ruby red
spray several layers allowing to dry, then sand with fine grit paper, spray again then sand again until you feel you have enough coats on, or follow the directions on the can.
after the final coat is dry, sand again with a very fine grit paper, then wash in a detergent or washing up liquid and leave to dry.
after this i used a clear laquer, several coats with fine grit sanding in between. when its dry it looks excellent!
one warning though, make sure you use paint/primer/laquer of the same brand or that they wont react with each other, we found this out while re-spraying a friends m3 wing mirrors, our mistake was using different brands of primer/paint etc. we painted the wing mirrors only to find a "laquer reaction" the primer and the paint pretty much slid off the surface as one peice! we had a laugh about it in the end.
beware of the laquer reaction
first i sanded with a medium grit sand paper, then cleaned with white sprit/paint stripper, then with washing up liquid. i then used auto paint primer from a rattle can. several coats of primer and sanding with a fine grit paper.
then again auto paint, in my case ruby red
spray several layers allowing to dry, then sand with fine grit paper, spray again then sand again until you feel you have enough coats on, or follow the directions on the can. after the final coat is dry, sand again with a very fine grit paper, then wash in a detergent or washing up liquid and leave to dry.
after this i used a clear laquer, several coats with fine grit sanding in between. when its dry it looks excellent!
one warning though, make sure you use paint/primer/laquer of the same brand or that they wont react with each other, we found this out while re-spraying a friends m3 wing mirrors, our mistake was using different brands of primer/paint etc. we painted the wing mirrors only to find a "laquer reaction" the primer and the paint pretty much slid off the surface as one peice! we had a laugh about it in the end.
beware of the laquer reaction
I guess you didn't read what I said, the Behringer stuff is likely coated with an epoxy material, like that used on soda cans...
Paint usually will not really stick to aluminum for long... Rustoleum or not. Which is why commercially coated aluminum always has some intermediate coat - either a chromate or a self-etching primer.
Of course anything will look good for a while, the question is how long.
Have fun with ur project... btw, what is the point of making it "black"?
_-_-bear
Paint usually will not really stick to aluminum for long... Rustoleum or not. Which is why commercially coated aluminum always has some intermediate coat - either a chromate or a self-etching primer.
Of course anything will look good for a while, the question is how long.
Have fun with ur project... btw, what is the point of making it "black"?
_-_-bear
There are safer ways of determining if a part is metal or not. Seriously.
It is aluminum, brushed and lacquer coated.
To paint it lightly scuff it with fine steel wool, clean and spray.
Not likely... but ok.
Might work to take it off with steel wool, might not.
Try it on the back panel or someplace not visible, I guess...
belt sander is a sure bet...??
Otoh, somehow I doubt that black paint on the front panel will effect the dynamic range, subtly or not. Wait... it might... nah.
I've painted over bare aluminum with spray lacquer before (DEFT). It's been over 3 year now and it looks exactly the same as the day I did it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have a DCX2496, do you? It is a brushed aluminum finish with a thin coat of clear lacquer to stop oxidization. Understand?
The purpose of the steel wool is not to take the lacquer off, it's to prep it for a new coat of paint. Anyone who knows anything about doing this would recognize what I am saying.
Belt sander...
Best to say nothing if the advice you bring is not only useless but also harmful.
At least it's gone then
Magura
I expect the next recommendation will be flamethrower:
Make damn well sure that we are down to bare metal, mister!
Anonymous,
I'm interested in possibly painting plain (non-anodized) aluminum ..but only if it's low effort!
My biggest concern is flaking of paint where other metal parts (screws, transformers, etc) come into heavy force contact with the lacquer and the eventual separation of the lacquer from the aluminum. From your pic it appears that you only have non-metal parts in contact with the surface. I guess just try and see but any thoughts?
I can't seem to source DEFT (or any other brand name) spray can black lacquer online. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Honestly, I think any non-anodized coating will run the risk of chipping anywhere there is forceful contact with another metallic object.
The front of that same chassis in the pic is also painted aluminum. I used self-etching primer and then regular spray paint over it. It has held up perfectly fine, no flaking or anything. It isn't bullet proof though; it can definitely chip if mistreated (especially the sharp edges).
The front of that same chassis in the pic is also painted aluminum. I used self-etching primer and then regular spray paint over it. It has held up perfectly fine, no flaking or anything. It isn't bullet proof though; it can definitely chip if mistreated (especially the sharp edges).
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