Yes. Not may of the factory recommended boxes make the cut. The smallest reasonable box, unless you are using it as a mid-tweeter, for the FE126, IMO, is the Frugel-Horn and it needs at least a wall/floor interface to work into.
dave
Like Cal said, the blade should clear the sheet underneath by the depth of the gullet (round bottom of the tooth cut-out) which is about 1/4" - 1/2". Deeper than this and the blade has a tendency to wander more, you'll have more surface tear-out and it's less safe.
Same rule applies on the tablesaw.
It can be hard to get good results with a portable circular saw. My dad has been doing it for years using another piece of straight timber to get the line, and he only just discovered recently why he wasn't getting a very accurate cut. They are good for some things but for cutting sheets for speakers it's a lot of extra work compared to a table saw. They are reasonably priced and while it may not justify the purchase for this project alone, IMO they are worth it if you like to do lots of other diy projects.
The real pest about a speaker box is that you need a considerable amount of accuracy. If you get it right when cutting, it's much quicker. The cutting itself can test your patience, as it takes a bit more time to do it meticulously.
How accurate? A sheet of veneer is 0.5mm thick and if you are even that much out, it's enough for a leak. But then it all depends on your technique. You might allow in your design for some panels having an overhang that can be planed off, or trimmed with the router.
The real pest about a speaker box is that you need a considerable amount of accuracy. If you get it right when cutting, it's much quicker. The cutting itself can test your patience, as it takes a bit more time to do it meticulously.
How accurate? A sheet of veneer is 0.5mm thick and if you are even that much out, it's enough for a leak. But then it all depends on your technique. You might allow in your design for some panels having an overhang that can be planed off, or trimmed with the router.
Well having being trained on a dimension panel saw (table saw) recently, the reason to keep the blade set 2-3cm above the height of the materiel is to reduce the risk kickback towards the operator. But keeping the blade lower helps to prevent break out on per-veneered & melamine boards. I would imagine this is also true for hand held circular saws.
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