piano black or other high gloss finishes on MDF - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Construction Tips

Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 23rd January 2010, 08:07 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
mondogenerator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: City Of Villans
Blog Entries: 1
Default piano black or other high gloss finishes on MDF

anyone have any ideas on how to achieve a high gloss piano black or other coloured finish to MDF?

Im considering car sprays/primer and alot of sanding....is there any other products which may help me achieve a good result?
__________________
Every new piece of knowledge pushes something else out of my brain - Homer.....................Simpson
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th January 2010, 01:35 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
I am sure it is in the preparation as much as the final coats. I think there was a thread on PE that talked about it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th January 2010, 01:49 PM   #3
Bluto is offline Bluto  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: WI.- near the Dells
Mondo -

I know there's several good posts here so do a search. If you Google you'll find one that's a few pages long; had it, lost it.

Lot of work to get that 'mirror' finish.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th January 2010, 01:55 PM   #4
tvrgeek is offline tvrgeek  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Md
After doing a pair and spending days primering, I learned to resin the MDF first with polyester resin. I used Dupont Centuri.
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th January 2010, 10:17 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
smokinghot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Canada
...and with a quick cut'n'paste of Mondo's request, "high gloss finish" into the forum search bar....



A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2010, 06:38 PM   #6
trd1587 is offline trd1587  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
trd1587's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Thurso, Quebec, Canada
First things first.

Preparation: nice clean sanding, round edges il you like.
Seal the porous matierial with a sealer.
Then apply a coat or two of a good oil paint primer.
And the secret ingredient.-----The PAINT, THE GUN AND THE ELBOW POWER.
I recommend a good Epoxy\PolyUrethane black\ hI GLOSS
The oil paint is pretty good at leveling out into a fairly smooth finish.
You can make the surface even smoother by lightly wet sanding between coats with a 400 grit sandpaper. The wet /dry sandpaper is black, and usually comes in 200, 400, and 600 grits. You use this paper by applying a little water to the surface, and then lightly sand the surface, all the while keeping the surface wet. Wet sanding allows you to quickly sand the surface, all the while keeping scratches to a minimum. The top coat of black, applied evenly, will dry pretty smooth. Let cure Overnight each in between coats.

I Recommend these for starters.
http://www.princessauto.com/air/pain...word=gun+paint

ps: Use with 20% or less dilution
If you want to push it further, and make the surface even smoother, then you can, after wet sanding with the 600 grit paper, take some automotive rubbing compound, and using either a power buffer or some serious elbow grease, buff the surface, removing any visible scratches. The finish will now be smooth, though with a slightly hazy sheen. Use some automotive polishing compound to remove the haze and bring up the shine. The more time spent on this step, the greater the gloss.


Please Post some photos when u are done!

Marc
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2010, 09:13 PM   #7
Mark Kravchenko --- www.kravchenko-audio.com
diyAudio Member
 
mwmkravchenko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Perth Canada
Some advice from a cabinet maker:

Paint whatever color you like on a well sealed and sanded cabinet. Sand the color coat to a smooth finish at least 320 grit.

Here is the evil trick I have used for almost 20 years. Use 2 part epoxy thinned with acetone. It will set quickly and give you depth like you wouldn't believe.
Every epoxy maker is slightly different in their mix but they almost all thin with acetone. I use stuff that sets up in an hour and when it is sprayed it sets up very quickly.

You can wet sand and rub out the epoxy coat to what ever sheen you desire.
ShinOBIWAN has good details on sanding and rubbing out the finish.

The only thing I would add is I use a glass backed sanding block. It gives a ripple free dead flat finish. And no you can't buy one. Get the appropriate size piece of glass cut and use silicone caulking to bond it to a wood backer. I sized mine so that a 1/4 sheet of paper was easy to hold on to at the edges of the block.

A few drops of soap in the water when wet sanding helps a great deal to.

Mark
__________________
Mark
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2010, 09:51 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
smokinghot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwmkravchenko View Post
Here is the evil trick I have used for almost 20 years. Use 2 part epoxy thinned with acetone. It will set quickly and give you depth like you wouldn't believe.
Would it be similar in appearance to a "gel" coat finish? I'm not certain that's the appropriate term, but that's what jumps to mind when someone mentions that a painted finish has "depth".

Quote:
The only thing I would add is I use a glass backed sanding block. It gives a ripple free dead flat finish. And no you can't buy one. Get the appropriate size piece of glass cut and use silicone caulking to bond it to a wood backer. I sized mine so that a 1/4 sheet of paper was easy to hold on to at the edges of the block.

A few drops of soap in the water when wet sanding helps a great deal to.

Mark
I've heard the soapy water trick from a buddy that does body work professional. How well would the "glass backed" block work on a curved cabinet though...? I would have to think the small amount of surface contact would do more harm than good...yes/no? Give you something more of a ribbed finish?
__________________
Jarrett
DIY addict
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2010, 10:31 PM   #9
Mark Kravchenko --- www.kravchenko-audio.com
diyAudio Member
 
mwmkravchenko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Perth Canada
Quote:
Would it be similar in appearance to a "gel" coat finish? I'm not certain that's the appropriate term, but that's what jumps to mind when someone mentions that a painted finish has "depth".
Yep. But any well done gloss finish will give you the proper depth. The method I've told you about does it with the least amount of effort. You pay more for the finish and the learning curve. Practice before you try this. When you get it you will never turn back.

Quote:
I've heard the soapy water trick from a buddy that does body work professional. How well would the "glass backed" block work on a curved cabinet though...? I would have to think the small amount of surface contact would do more harm than good...yes/no? Give you something more of a ribbed finish?
I think you answered your own question.

Flats need a flat reference. Glass is flat to a few .0001". But as you pointed out it doesn't curve very easily. Your hands will do the trick. If it is a uniform curve and it really matters you can make a form but that is very rare.

Good you have a buddy who knows how to spray. He'll be good for more than one tip I'll bet.

Mark
__________________
Mark
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2010, 11:02 PM   #10
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Blog Entries: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinghot View Post
How well would the "glass backed" block work on a curved cabinet though...? I would have to think the small amount of surface contact would do more harm than good...yes/no? Give you something more of a ribbed finish?
No, it is when you abandon using a flat rigid support that you start to get problems. Do not attempt to sand with the paper unsupported in your fingers.

MDF as manufactured has a fine-textured finish on the faces of the boards. It is preferable not to scratch this finish if at all possible. This means that some mating parts cannot be sanded in place. The finish on worked edges will have a more open, absorbent nature. The problem is to dimension the parts so that when sanding sealer is applied to the assembled whole the joins are undetectable, preferably at the first coat. Sanding sealer is a sugary easily-worked varnish that can be built up quickly to conceal flaws. It sits on the surface and stops other paint sinking in but it's easily worked nature makes the finished article more prone to dings if applied thickly. You need enough on there so that you are not sanding into the fibres at any point, however, as they may start to 'pick up' and make the surface furry.

w
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Piano gloss tips paulspencer Multi-Way 4 2nd January 2007 08:37 AM
Applying piano black finish help Toast_Master Subwoofers 15 28th May 2006 06:48 AM
Alternative finishes for sculpted MDF enclosure filgor Multi-Way 6 17th January 2006 01:56 AM
Anyone have any suggestions on Piano Black paint job? corryn00 Multi-Way 15 26th February 2005 02:41 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:03 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2