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Old 15th November 2009, 10:38 AM   #11
djQUAN is offline djQUAN  Philippines
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richie00boy View Post
60/40 is designed for electrical/electronic work. But having recently tried 63/37 I will be sticking with that from now on, it does give a nicer joint.
same thing here.

at work, we use about 300degC for pbfree with a hakko soldering station. 320/350degC for thicker traces.
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Old 16th November 2009, 04:09 PM   #12
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My bench iron is a 25 year old 25 watt Weller magnetic switch temperature controlled type using a low voltage transformer dc supply. Never found anything it can't do within it's power capability. Then I have another Weller , 150 watt , again mag switch type temp controlled , for heavy cable , chassis and component work. I also have a 300 watt and even a Gas heated iron for anything that may need it !!

Recently a friend was trying to solder some terminals onto 0 gauge cable in an ICE install with an instant type soldering gun !! He was wondering why he was having no success until I took my 300 watter over , then he understood !!
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Old 16th November 2009, 06:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thermal runaway View Post
My bench iron is a 25 year old 25 watt Weller magnetic switch temperature controlled type using a low voltage transformer dc supply. Never found anything it can't do within it's power capability. Then I have another Weller , 150 watt , again mag switch type temp controlled , for heavy cable , chassis and component work. I also have a 300 watt and even a Gas heated iron for anything that may need it !!

Recently a friend was trying to solder some terminals onto 0 gauge cable in an ICE install with an instant type soldering gun !! He was wondering why he was having no success until I took my 300 watter over , then he understood !!
LOL...

I use only "SN62" (62/36/2) solder (last 2 % is silver).
It makes nice and shiny joints, and they are reliable for age and vibration...
My iron is usually set for 330-360º C

Arne K
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Old 3rd December 2009, 01:29 PM   #14
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Unhappy melted rca jack, any advice?

I'm a complete novice at all things diy and audio, but enthusiastic and hoping to learn.

The one thing I thought I could do was solder quite well, lots of practice on Velleman kits (don't laugh). I have very limited funds at present but thought I could have a go at making some interconnects, so I've got a variety of cheap rca plugs and some wire.

Just tried to do first connection and I could 'feel' the centre pin wasn't getting hot enough and the solder wouldn't melt. I stopped and then realised that all I had done was melt the insulation plastic and I now have a very off centre pin.

Am I right in thinking I need to get the soldering iron hotter - it's a new cheap adjustable temperature one so I don't know what I'm adjusting the temperature to... Its 50W. Do I need a bigger tip? The solder is lead free silver solder.

I can't afford to experiment randomly and destroy any more plugs. Don't know if I'm posting this in the right place to get any response, but here's hoping. Feeling like an idiot female.

uplees8
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Old 3rd December 2009, 02:15 PM   #15
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Did you tin the iron , the wire and the pin before trying to solder the 2 together ?
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Old 3rd December 2009, 03:58 PM   #16
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Try using proper solder instead.

Set the iron on full or just leave it with the factory setting if you have not disturbed it or can remember where it was set.
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Old 3rd December 2009, 04:05 PM   #17
uplees8 is offline uplees8  United Kingdom
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Default Was trying to

Hurrah, the first response to my first ever question!

I have tinned the wire and was attempting to tin the pin on the plug when the melting incident occurred. The more I think about it, the more I suspect that I need to be hotter and quicker... And I'm going to have to re-melt the offending plug to bend it back again so that it's at least useable.

Thanks for bothering
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Old 3rd December 2009, 08:27 PM   #18
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What do you call proper solder and where do I get it?
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Old 3rd December 2009, 08:43 PM   #19
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I've found that some of the cheaper plugs & sockets with 'bright' plating don't tin at all well, and require a LOT of heat. No good if they are part of a plastic component.
The answer is to take off the bright plating with 800 or 1000 grade emery paper before trying to tin the solder tag.

50W of iron is enough I'd say. You'd only need more if you have BIG solder tags.

Those black emery boards for fingernails work well here - you can cut them with side-cutters into pointy shapes to fit into awkward spaces.
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Old 3rd December 2009, 10:56 PM   #20
uplees8 is offline uplees8  United Kingdom
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Thankyou Steerpike,

The easy melting was the bit that surprised me, seems a bit daft when something has to be soldered. Guess that is what you get for not much money. Great tip with the emery boards. I have had another go with the iron hotter and have just about managed to make my first set of interconnects. Even straightened the offending plug up. It's all a learning curve and guess what..... they work! Sure no one is interested but me, but I am dead chuffed.

Thanks for help, still interested in what constitutes 'proper' solder though...
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