Drilled some holes crooked; what's a good filler?

Jimmy154 · 12th November 2009, 09:24 PM

Hello friends,

I drilled some holes crooked and I'm wondering what can I fill them with so I can drill new holes with a drill press, this time

Wood putty/filler won't work; it's too brittle and has no structural strength. I was thinking maybe there was some sort of two part epoxy I could use for this purpose or wood glue and saw dust mix?

wrenchone · 12th November 2009, 09:38 PM

Try JB Weld, available in hardware and automotive stores. It takes 24 hr to cure, but it's tough as nails.

vdi_nenna · 12th November 2009, 09:40 PM

Liquid Steel, but it's expensive.

MJL21193 · 12th November 2009, 10:12 PM

Vote #2 for JB Weld - amazing stuff.

LikaComet · 13th November 2009, 12:16 AM

What are you working with?

Is it metal or wood?

How are these holes being used?

Can you just use a larger drill to clean up the out of line hole. . .larger drill being used in a drill press that is.

Jimmy154 · 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJL21193

Vote #2 for JB Weld - amazing stuff.

Funny I just used some of this stuff to fix my car. I thought it was mostly used for metal. It would not be such a good thing if it was a lot harder than MDF. I have to be able to drill through it again and the MDF. The new holes will mostly be through the fixed part also through the MDF.

I should have done it right the first time

nigelwright7557 · 13th November 2009, 12:27 AM

Fibre glass will go rock hard.

MJL21193 · 13th November 2009, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy154

Funny I just used some of this stuff to fix my car. I thought it was mostly used for metal. It would not be such a good thing if it was a lot harder than MDF.

You didn't mention it was MDF...did ya?

Automotive body filler would be a better choice on MDF - you know, Bondo?

mightydub · 13th November 2009, 05:27 AM

use West System #105 epoxy with #205 hardener and mix with #404 High Strength Filler. Use #206 hardener if you want a longer cure time. You can cast a threaded hole with this stuff by spraying the fastener you want to use with WD-40 or even cooking spray for a release agent, wiping off the excess, and then sticking it in the epoxy/filler mixture and letting it cure. You'll need some sort of jig to hold the fastener in the proper alignment of course. This trick came in handy more than once when I used to own a boat.

West System products available at your local marine store.

soundchaser001 · 27th November 2009, 11:51 PM

#3 for JB Weld.

Used it to fill a duff hole in an armboard for an Ariston RD-11S which I subsequently re-drilled for an RB300. The hole intersected the original material (some kind of plastic) and the JB Weld. It was flawless. Before use the armboard was tapped, dropped and otherwise abused albeit gently to see if the weld piece would come loose. Not even close.

Some might say that CTE mismatch could be a problem but if it's an indoor domestic application it won't be.

Good luck

Matt

13th November 2009, 12:27 AM	#7
nigelwright7557 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Carlisle, England	Fibre glass will go rock hard. __________________ http://www.murtonpikesystems.co.uk PCBCAD40 pcb design software.

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12th November 2009, 09:24 PM	#1
Jimmy154 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Los Angeles	Drilled some holes crooked; what's a good filler? Hello friends, I drilled some holes crooked and I'm wondering what can I fill them with so I can drill new holes with a drill press, this time Wood putty/filler won't work; it's too brittle and has no structural strength. I was thinking maybe there was some sort of two part epoxy I could use for this purpose or wood glue and saw dust mix? __________________ We do not allow political statements or conjecture to be made on these forums.---the diyAudio moderation team

12th November 2009, 09:38 PM	#2
wrenchone diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Silicon Valley	Try JB Weld, available in hardware and automotive stores. It takes 24 hr to cure, but it's tough as nails.

12th November 2009, 09:40 PM	#3
vdi_nenna diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: PA, USA	Liquid Steel, but it's expensive. __________________ Zen, BOZ, BOZ-J, BLS, B1, Mini-A, Audio Sector NOS DAC, Gain Clone, F5, CAT5 Speaker Cable, DIY Allen Wright ICs, MOX II

12th November 2009, 10:12 PM	#4
MJL21193 Account disabled at member's request Join Date: Mar 2007	Vote #2 for JB Weld - amazing stuff.

13th November 2009, 12:16 AM	#5
LikaComet diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2009	What are you working with? Is it metal or wood? How are these holes being used? Can you just use a larger drill to clean up the out of line hole. . .larger drill being used in a drill press that is.

13th November 2009, 05:27 AM	#9
mightydub diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Where the sky loves the sea	use West System #105 epoxy with #205 hardener and mix with #404 High Strength Filler. Use #206 hardener if you want a longer cure time. You can cast a threaded hole with this stuff by spraying the fastener you want to use with WD-40 or even cooking spray for a release agent, wiping off the excess, and then sticking it in the epoxy/filler mixture and letting it cure. You'll need some sort of jig to hold the fastener in the proper alignment of course. This trick came in handy more than once when I used to own a boat. West System products available at your local marine store.

27th November 2009, 11:51 PM	#10
soundchaser001 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Kanata	#3 for JB Weld. Used it to fill a duff hole in an armboard for an Ariston RD-11S which I subsequently re-drilled for an RB300. The hole intersected the original material (some kind of plastic) and the JB Weld. It was flawless. Before use the armboard was tapped, dropped and otherwise abused albeit gently to see if the weld piece would come loose. Not even close. Some might say that CTE mismatch could be a problem but if it's an indoor domestic application it won't be. Good luck Matt

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