|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
A vinyl sign cutter to cut the traces onto a PCB ???
I just bought a rather large one ( 24" wide ) and has a quite nice carbide tip cutter. I was thinking about cutting the traces on the clad side and then use the marker attachment to do the silk screen on the other side. Anyone attempted this ??? |
|
|
|
#2 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
|
Quote:
Last edited by Andrew Eckhardt; 10th November 2009 at 06:07 PM. |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
I use and support Sign cutters, 24" is the smallest we support
. This is a standard swivel knife I take it. The cutting force on the majority of cutters is adjustable from 10 to 300grams with some going to 500grams.I've never tried cutting copper clad board but I doubt there is enough force and the drag, if it cut would skew the PCB, these are designed for roll material in general. Try it slow speed. Possibly cut several times so your not at the highest force. I think it will do in the blade fairly quickly though ![]() In my youth I used to look after real flatbed sign cutters, 7metre by 1.8metre beds with tangental cutters for vinyl and milling heads
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Hi,
I think it would be well worth a try, I know for a fact that there are some vinyls in the marketplace that have very aggressive adhesive, i.e. can be applied to fairly rough surfaces successfully. If you were to cut a mask and apply it to the copper side, IMO you wouldn't have any problems retaining the copper beneath the mask when etching the board.
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Quote:
So i tried a test "score" on one of the boards... Settings were 450mm/s @ 250g came out a bit crooked on the first try. All i had to do is increase the clamping force on the rollers to keep the material from "slipping" or shifting. Second try looked pretty good and all lines were straight and even !! This is the Unit i have.... picked it up for $200 ![]() PS: I got 4 knifes with it - 2 x 45' and 2 x 60' Last edited by Adrculda; 10th November 2009 at 09:14 PM. |
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Do know of them
Good buy Interesting idea, be interested to hear how it works out on boards. Specs suggest 500grams and 800mm/sec flatout should be enough |
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Also noticed that a sharpie fits perfectly in the knife holder
![]() Now a fine tipped blue or black sharpie would be perfect for laying down the silk screen on the top side of the board. But first i have to get a USB 2 Serial Converter till i can actually print my first circuit board ![]() Also picked up a box full of boards from the same guy for $20 ( about 15 boards about 22" x 36" double layer with what looks like 1oz layers. ) All in all was a good yard sale
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
| New To Site? | Need Help? |