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Old 8th October 2009, 10:23 PM   #1
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Default Help with trimming wood Veneer.

Help! I applied my wood veneer with contact cement and am having some troubles trimming it. I've got a knife and I'm trying to run it 90 degrees to the veneer but it's 'splintering' and tearing up around where the edge is. I'm fairly certain I got a good bond with the contact cement.

Help!
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Old 8th October 2009, 10:37 PM   #2
mrevie is offline mrevie  Australia
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How sharp is the knife? If the veneer is splinting then the knife must be catching... I've used a scalpel before with great success.
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Old 8th October 2009, 10:54 PM   #3
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It's a new (albeit cheap) utility knife.

Do you cut all the way through the veneer with one sweep? Do you take several passes? Do you 'saw' at it?
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Old 8th October 2009, 11:02 PM   #4
mrevie is offline mrevie  Australia
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Nah, I don't saw. It's pretty tough to do it in one sweep. I usually go over a particular section very carefully, gradually getting deeper. In such a way you're not applying too much force to the veneer and splitting it.
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Old 8th October 2009, 11:23 PM   #5
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there are available router bits that are made to trim veners. You can try to use a small plane and then fine sandpaper. Very coarse sand paper followed by fine sand paper works but takes the longest. A very sharp chisel will work if you don't have a plane. A new chisel will have to be sharpened. They are not very sharp when bought from a store. I have used all of the methods. Using a router is fastest but you will need some practice first or you can destroy your project in a second or less. I remade all of the kitchen cabinets in our house using oak plywood and used several hunded feet of oak iron on vener for the edges. I used the chisel and sandpaper method with excellent results. When you rub your finger from one edge to the other you should not feel the veneered edge.
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Old 8th October 2009, 11:52 PM   #6
mattmcl is offline mattmcl  United States
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If you are cross cutting (going against the grain) you need a very sharp knife. You can put a piece of masking tape right along your cut line, which will decrease the splintering- apply the tape gently, and be careful when you pull it back up.

I'm veneering my speakers right now as well, I decided to rout a 1/4" groove along the edge and glue in strips of wood, then round them over. This also prevents edge damage when you move the speakers or whatever.
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Old 9th October 2009, 04:25 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Unfortunately I'm going to have to stop for the time being. Just had a cold snap and I can't get the garage warm enough. (The contact cement I have wants to be above 16 Celsius with my space heater running I can only get it up to about 5 degrees.)
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Old 9th October 2009, 07:14 PM   #8
mattmcl is offline mattmcl  United States
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I'm running into the same thing. I'll tell you one thing- do NOT be stingy with the contact cement. I've had a few bubbles appear and I think it's because I was trying to stretch the can of cement out. If you do get some, cut a slit along the grain the whole length of the bubble, in the middle. Then sneak some wood glue in there and clamp it down. Someone suggested ironing the bubbles, but I haven't tried that.
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Old 10th October 2009, 01:14 AM   #9
mrevie is offline mrevie  Australia
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Dear god that's cold... It's between 20 and 35 degrees C year round where I am.
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Old 10th October 2009, 01:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrevie View Post
Dear god that's cold... It's between 20 and 35 degrees C year round where I am.
Ah, shaddap

/Geek cold
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