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|24th September 2009, 04:18 PM||#12|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Athens GREECE
here is how it goes ....
for an amplifier pcb is critical ...for starts ...and for example the ideal pcb should be in three parts preferibly with
---- caps ( banks ) on board first pcb area ( for our power of amplifiers 50-60-100w)
---- outpout transistors in the midle area
---- all the small stuff ltp ccs vbe drivers in the third area
---- ccs should be close to the circuits related
---- rails kept as small is possible
---- ground too
---- decoupling + bypass as next to the outs possible
---- ltp with thermal coupling
---- zobel excluded to the binding post of the amplifier
---- no ground frame
---- star ground of course
---- proper trace thikness (related to the current )
---- proper trace proximity ( to avoid capacitance )
---- rounded corners
---- and as less parallel traces is possible .....
---- and of course all will look square and symmetric
---if you manage to do all this for a relativelly simple amplifier like the DX
---if you manage to do all that in a single leyer board
---if you manage to do that while keeping in mind on how to root the cables so they come out of the board in convinient areas so input cable meets the input plug very shortly ...then outpout cable meet the binding post also very closely
--- if you manage to reverse the design of the boards so they look symmetric regarding the topology of the amp .... which normaly is board -trafo- board looking from left to right
then yes you will end up with a pretty neat device in your hands also you may register as the god of design after that ....
no matter how hard i try it was never possible to keep all but all the rules in a single leyer pcb even for a very simple amp like the P3A
good luck uncle charly .... i will send some pictures of my latest box and constructions
kind regards sakis
SERVICE ΕΝΙΣΧΥΤΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΙΑΠΩΝΙΚΩΝ ΜΗΧΑΝΗΜΑΤΩΝ ΗΧΟΥ www.eastelectronics.gr
|9th October 2009, 06:05 AM||#15|
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
This is DIY
Most of the time you do not get to "deisign" your case, instead you get get to put your circuits into whatever case you happen to have. Make faceplate look ok/ some text and LEDs maybe?
Sometimes the case is big enough to make everything look ok, other times you have to be creative to fit everything inside it. This is what makes most diy projects look diy- case is not perfect for the stuff inside it. But does it sound good?
Some people "design" and others "build." if you are going to be a "builder" you are not going to waste months of time looking for perfect dimensions, you are going to fit your boards and output devices into the closest thing you can get at the time and then you move on to the next project.
People here spend a lot of time worrying about things like capacitors, wire and rubber feet. Make/ construct/ "build" and and listen and then a year later rebuild with what you have learned.
Carlos is a builder, it is interesting that he asks this question. I hope because he has a good amp he wants to keep!
What case looks good? Years ago I liked blue/ yellow lights and a silver case; now its silver face and yellow or geen lights; but I have made a black case and like it too. Hard to say. Ideas of Sakis are for PCBs and cannot be complied with even for simple amplifiers- would take too much time; years making a pcb for 1 amp that may not sound good. Trade off.
My favorite enclosure so far is for the DX-
And old sansui and a new faceplate.
Sounds better than it looks.
But my metal/wood Krell looks good (to me) as well
Sometimes the "classic" chassis is appropriate but sometimes a new look fits. Still; hard to say.
Also don't focus on Front panel to exclude a nice back panel.
Use plastic to fill holes from old components.
Retired from DIY (2010) but still lurking now and again. My DIY audio projects- PartTimeProjects.com.
Last edited by lgreen; 9th October 2009 at 06:32 AM.
|15th October 2009, 07:09 PM||#17|
Join Date: Feb 2009
What about perspex?
I thought about building an amplifier enclosure (including psu and toroid) in perspex. It seems like a nice idea as it is cheap and not too difficult to cut etc...... However, is it rigid enough a material? (I think I'll buy 5mm thick) I am worried it would crack if I use too large panels....
However from what I have seen I think it is a good beauty trick and easier to work on than steel or thick aluminium.....
|17th October 2009, 12:28 AM||#18|
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The last frontier
Perspex (Plexiglass) is fine, but you need special tools to work it. Also, it would need to be very thick (and heavy) to support heavy items like transformers. As a faceplate, it can really turn out well, especially if you have access to an engraving laser. Now you're giving me ideas...
Also, it insulates well, which can be good for high voltage circuits, but it doesn't provide a safety ground either. Also, it doesn't like alcohol at all. And it can melt/soften/warp at higher temperatures, so keep it away from tubes and heatsinks.
Listen to the music through the stereo, not the stereo through the music.
Last edited by Fenris; 17th October 2009 at 12:30 AM.
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