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#1 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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You know, I owe my wisdom to the many, many, many mistakes I've made over my life. Well today I got wiser again
As an earthling trying to take responsibility for his planet, I have been experimenting with water based paint for speaker building, (against all my hard learned experience.) Well, today I tried putting a water based enamel paint on top of a water based latex sealer/primer (Zinsser) What a botch! Lummy! So I hereby claim the title of worst paint job ever! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: USA
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Very nice... been there done that a few too many times in my life.
I never have taken a picture of my finish mistakes, usual start swearing immediately then go grab the palm sander.
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Guiness
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#3 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Geez Iain, don't you have a larger picture?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Seattle,Wash.
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The "worst" paint job I ever did was a metallic blue paint job on my parent's car. Ford had a couple of years where the primer and paint were incompatable and the paint would start peeling off. I had to strip the whole body to the bare metal and start over with good products. It came out OK, but it was the most labor intensive paint job I ever did, and I had foolishly volunteered to do it for the cost of materials.
Live and learn, TerryO
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"If you have to ask why, then you're probably on the right track." quote from Terry Olson's DIYaudio Forum application |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bavaria (south of veal sausage equator)
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Quote:
Had to spray about 2 dozens of speaker base plates (ran small series at that times). Everything nicely prepared, sanded, fillered, sanded, sprayed ... as always. Looked good but..... somehow felt uncomfortable though. After a few hours I noticed the stuff won`t cure in some way and the surface had weird kind of pickles. It was more like rubber and could be rubbed off quite easily also. I thought I maybe catched a dirty (oily or whatever) rag to wipe clean. So everything once again but before had to strip the mess. Now took extra care that everything was alright. Then..... same thing again. After the third try and wasting almost a day..... still the SAME .Suddenly I got so short-tempered ed the remaining full can against the wall. I felt so greeeaaaaat ....... until it hit the wall and broke up (of course) and all the (black) waterstuff covered the garage and lots of tools (compressor etc.).It took several hours to clean up this mess and to paint the walls again. Never figured what was wrong. So water based, by all means, not for me anymore, at least not for painting ![]() Sorry, no pictures...
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Christoph STEAL the BEST - INVENT the REST |
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#6 |
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Proud Union Member
diyAudio Member
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10 cans of Duplicolor "Midnight Blue" on a silver 88 Bronco II.
Looked ok at night. That was about it. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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my mother had a 1971 Super Beetle that had faded yellow paint, and she wanted a purple metal flake paint job, so she bought a few cases of Krylon purple metal flake and a few cases of Krylon clear enamel. we spent a whole weekend, first sanding enough to let the paint get a good grip (no, we didn't re-prime it first), then carefully putting the purple paint on, and then the clear enamel. it actually came out looking good. the paint held up well to the elements for a couple of years. then came the repaving of Rte 128 (in Massachusetts) and they stripped off two layers of asphalt and put down sand on the rough road surface. after a month of driving on that, my mother's paint job started to wear off in a few areas and the yellow started to show through. we joked with her about her "Martian Camouflage" paint job. a side note.... after the paint job was done, there were several cans of the purple paint and the clear enamel left. i was building a bass guitar, and the body i had got from a friend had been given a real hack flat black paint job. so i sanded it down to the wood and put 5 coats of the purple metal flake on ti, letting each coat dry for a few days each coat. then i put several coats of clear enamel on it. i then went and bought a piece of blank pick guard laminate and cut out a rather odd shaped pick guard (there was a section of the wood that had been filled with plastic-wood putty, and just refused to sand flat, so i covered that section with the pickguard. after mounting the pickguard, electronics and a big heavy adjustable bridge, it looked ok, but i didn't like the glaring white pickguard. i wanted something different. my brother had a sheet of holographic plastic laminate., so i cut a piece of it for the pickguard and put it on. i was thinking if it looked tacky i'd take it off and try to find a black pickguard for it. it actually looked pretty good a metal flake purple bass with a diffraction grating pickguard. i even built the active electronics for it, with an interesting phase control for the neck pickup using a dual linear taper pot and a 3 band eq (lifted from NS's app notes, but with all of the time constants shifted down an octave). unfortunately, that guitar got stolen while i was in the army, and so now i look for another vintage Hagstrom bass neck to build another one with.... this time without the diffraction material. it looked great at the time, but i'll probably try the black pickguard this time, and probably a dark blue paint.
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Vintage Audio and Pro-Audio repair ampz(removethis)@sohonet.net spammer trap: spammers must die |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Yay! Someone topped my blue spackle job on these:
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#9 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Water based paint job...
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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Not sure if I'll hit that target with these, John, but I think I'm following your trail. I've since put 5 more coats on with no sanding. Just build it up steadily.
Then all I got to do is sand it flat. It's all about the recovery right?!? |
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