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Old 2nd July 2013, 08:59 PM   #121
M Gregg is offline M Gregg  England
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Thanks for the input..

I will have a go and see what happens...I have used shellac before, but never bothered with oil finishes.

M. Gregg
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Old 1st August 2013, 09:14 PM   #122
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I am new to speaker building but have been building and finishing furniture for nearly 30 years and have used many different products in the process. Here is my over view of some of them

Varnish/ I don,t use varnish directly out of the can much any more for a few reasons
1 the time it takes to dry means every piece of dust that comes in contact with it in the first hour or so will stick.
2 I don,t like the look or feel of a plastic film finishes
If you plan on using varnish a first coat of sanding sealer is better I use shellac about a 11/2-2lb cut works well let dry,sand, tack rag then gently stir and remove some varnish out of the original container, about as much as you think you will need, I discard what ever is left when I am done because small bits of dust and so on will contaminate the original can. Let dry 24 hours, sand, tack and repeat.
If you let your varnish cure for about a week you can then rub out and wax your finish for a super slick finish I use 4 ot steel wool and wool lube.
3/ Althow this is probably one of the hardest and most protective of the finishes standing water left on it will still penetrate through the finish and leave a mark that can only be removed by stripping the finish.
If varnish is my choice I will usually use a wipe-on type so not to build as heavy of a finish, this product can be purchased or made by mixing half/half clear varnish and mineral spirits, you can use satin varnish but it dosent last long mixed.

Oils/ most oils can be purchased as raw also called 100%pure or with drying agents to make them cure.
Raw oils never cure and the rule is 1 coat a day for a week one coat a week for a month and once a year for life. This is the nicest finish on some woods, figured sherry for example . Any scratches or dings can usually be fixed with another coat.
Never use a raw oil under any other finish
Oils that cure are a great substitute, I also use boiled linseed as a first coat under other products varnish included to bring out the figure in figured woods. They can also be used on there own , 6 or 8 coats topped with a coat of wax.
I typicaly would not use oil on a thin veneer, oil can penetrate the veneer to the glue surface and possibly cause some adherence problems. Not for sure just my thought.

Shellac/ probably one of my favourite go to products as a sealer,on its own or topped with wax .I buy it in flake form and dissolve it in denatured alcohol so I know it is fresh(1lb of flake to 1 gallon of alcohol= 1lb cut)there are various types amber,white,etc some more refined then others most have a % of wax in them which is why varnish manufacturers recommend you not apply varnish over shellac but one coat 11/2-2lb cut sanded works fine.

The latest product that I just finished my speaker stands with is “tried&true” original wood finish which is a blend of linseed oil and bees wax it gives a very natural look and feel and can be reaplied later if so desired to refresh the finish.
In my work lately I prefer not to use stains rather chose beautiful woods that don,t need color enhancing .
For those of you why like to use figured wood such as curly maple here,s a little trick to make the curly jump out : take some brownish water base dye stain add 5x the recommended water apply like stain let dry sand off until only a little remains in the figure apply 1 coat of boiled linseed let dry top coat normally with varnish or wiping varnish to see the figure come alive

Last edited by paul burchell; 1st August 2013 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 7th August 2013, 04:21 PM   #123
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I actually prefer this layout, it's so comfortable, I genuinely like modern design.
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Old 7th August 2013, 10:24 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by painterssanjose View Post
I actually prefer this layout, it's so comfortable, I genuinely like modern design.
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I don,t get the connection "scratch,scratch"
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Old 31st May 2015, 09:29 PM   #125
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I'm building a 2.1 system atm.

18mm MDF cabs with an outer veneer of 12mm hi-grade birch ply, edged machined to a 45 so all the layers can be seen.

The sub has been made in it's MDF base for some time, while I cut the ply, and has been in place in the living room.

My adorable 4 year old has taken to using it has her food and drinks stand, so it constantly has "stuff" poured, splashed, smeared all over it - so my original plan of waxing it is looking like a bad one.

What tough, child resistant, varnishes would you recommend?

I'd prefer it not to colour the wood too much and would like a matt/satin finish.

Any pictures of your varnished ply enclosures much appreciated!

As is in MDF (KEF B139 are now fitted and sounding great!)
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by TheBaronGroog; 31st May 2015 at 09:48 PM.
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