Wood & Varnish - Page 10 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Construction Tips

Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 16th September 2009, 09:02 PM   #91
ChrisA is offline ChrisA  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by raypalmer View Post
I can find single ply (raw veneer) lots of places but I've used it before and am not in love with the final product.

Like painting, all the work is in the prep. What do they saw about a painting job? "When you are all done, it is time to apply the paint. Veneer is not much thicker than paint.

The trick to making it look nice is getting a dead smooth (glass-like) surface with not even wood gain texture. The best, #1, first class thing is to first apply a Formica laminate and then veneer over that. But that doubles the work and triples the cost. The surface has to be 100% perfect BEFORE you apply the veneer. That is why people like MDF.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th September 2009, 03:57 AM   #92
diyAudio Member
 
brucegseidner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Default plastic surgery

My cutting tools and skill are not great.

But it is nothing short of amazing what a little Bondo and sandpaper will accomplish.

In the past I have relied on a flat black "theater" idiom for my creations.

Last week I purchased some very nice Mahogany veneered ply and built a pair of Brynn's. My joinery is primitive leaving a fully exposed square edge of non-veneered ply. I found 1" edge veneer in Mahogany from WoodCraft that is enormously forgiving. I purchased the iron from WallMart for about a ten spot.

For the front edge veneer I am likely ordering a banded veneer from one of the following sites. I admire natural beauty but for everything there is Bondo and veneer.



http://inlays.com/Custom_Inlay_Bandings.asp
http://www.inlaybanding.com/index.html
http://www.joewoodworker.com/
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th September 2009, 02:40 PM   #93
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: S.England
Default Definitaive Reading

Please allow me to HIGHLY recommend this book:

"Understanding Wood Finishing - How to Select & Apply the Right Finish"
By: Bob Flexner
ISBN 0-7621-0621-2 (hardcover) also available in softcover.

It takes the reader through:
Preparing the wood
Tools for application
Staining
Oil & Wax Finishes
Pore Filliing
Film Finishes
Shellac, Laquer, Varnish, 2 Part (epoxy) & Water Based finishes
Finish selection
Colouring, caring & repairing.

One clever dude this Flexner bloke - goes on to explain the chemistry of finishes and how it applys to 'what's written on the tin' etc.

Only one critisim - it's an American Book (I'm from UK) and I have to 'translate' some of the terminology.

A definate must have book of you're 'into' wood finishing.

Cheers,

Andy
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2009, 12:36 AM   #94
ljfont is offline ljfont  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
ljfont's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
Default African Plywood.

Someone is selling it cheap in my area.

4 X 8 SHEETS OF HARDWOOD PLYWOOD - CHEAP

Is it any good? I guess for a prototype it's cheaper than MDF.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2009, 04:57 AM   #95
ChrisA is offline ChrisA  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljfont View Post
Someone is selling it cheap in my area.

4 X 8 SHEETS OF HARDWOOD PLYWOOD - CHEAP

Is it any good? I guess for a prototype it's cheaper than MDF.
5/8 hardwod? He is letting it go at 1/2 market value. It is MUCH more durable then MDF, much stronger. If you can use that much it it go for it.

I just built a speaker cabinet with 3/4 white pine. I did it on purpose because I wanted it to have a wood-like tone. Even with an intentional use of a very "springy" wood the direct sound from the driver (12" 98db) dominates so much I doubt I hear the wood, hard to tell.

So a 5/8 ply cab that is well braced will work fine and certainly it will be able to take massive physical abuse. QUality plywood like that is stiff.

That's exactly what they make guitar speakers with 5/8 hardwood ply. Because those guys move and transport their gear so frequently
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th December 2009, 02:51 PM   #96
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by underwurlde View Post
Please allow me to HIGHLY recommend this book:

"Understanding Wood Finishing - How to Select & Apply the Right Finish"
By: Bob Flexner
ISBN 0-7621-0621-2 (hardcover) also available in softcover.

It takes the reader through:
Preparing the wood
Tools for application
Staining
Oil & Wax Finishes
Pore Filliing
Film Finishes
Shellac, Laquer, Varnish, 2 Part (epoxy) & Water Based finishes
Finish selection
Colouring, caring & repairing.

One clever dude this Flexner bloke - goes on to explain the chemistry of finishes and how it applys to 'what's written on the tin' etc.

Only one critisim - it's an American Book (I'm from UK) and I have to 'translate' some of the terminology.

A definate must have book of you're 'into' wood finishing.

Cheers,

Andy
This book is the bases of my knowledge of finishes. I read it 10 yrs ago and started using shellac. The dewaxed shellac is a great sealer also, as about anything will stick. It builds and dries fast. Forget the drip and brush strokes, just put on 4 -6 coats. You can put on a coat every 30 min. Just slop it on. Raw MDF edges take twice as much and can be coated an extra time between coats. Let it dry over night; then sand with 120 grit, backed by a block, and you can quickly level up the finish. Now see what you have and decide what you need to do next. You may need to put on another coat to level up the scuff marks and reveal your progress.

Now if you want a glass finish, just put on a couple more of coats of shellac and then began buffing out all imperfections. You will need to use some lubricant such as paint thinner to wash away the swarf. Start with 220 grit and finish with 600 or maybe even 1500 grit, as you prefer.This much shellac will take weeks to fully harden/cure. You may want to hold off on the final polishing grits for a month. Shellac dries hard and brittle, so it buffs very well. It also chips or can be damaged easily but repair is also easy. A drop of alcohol dissolves the layers and the chipped area and allows them to re-bond. Then you just buff out the area.

All of this is in this book.

Have fun.

Bob
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th March 2010, 12:27 AM   #97
kagolu is offline kagolu  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Central Fl
Hey Gang,
New to the forum and absolutely love this thread. The only thing that has been holding back on some full-range bookshelves is what kind of finish and wood to use. I want them look as good as they will sound. Can't wait to read the whole thing!
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd July 2010, 05:06 PM   #98
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Off topic digression split to here Boxes or Not

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd September 2010, 02:40 PM   #99
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lake Superior
Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
I have found MDF oozes a continuous low level grunge that reduces the downward dynamic range.

*SNIP*

Bill Perkins of PEARL was not happy with MDF so he came up with a self-made 7 layer MDF plywood and the new curved PE cabinets (& i understand some of the newest Polk) use a multilayer MDF plywood on the sides (6-1/8" layers for the PE cabs. This is quite an improvement on MDF alone.

dave
I am going to use some 3/4" Sandeply from Home Depot for my Lotus^2 build. Millstead 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Sandeply Hardwood Plywood - 454559 at The Home Depot

No, it's not 9 ply BB or marine but it should be a good measure better than MDF. My only concern is the end grain and how strong the butt joints will be. I'll use yellow glue and clamps but I wonder if I'll need biscuits too?

It's raining here in Northern Minnesota today so I can't haul the material, otherwise I would be starting the project today.
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd September 2010, 04:06 PM   #100
ChrisA is offline ChrisA  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by motosapien View Post
No, it's not 9 ply BB or marine but it should be a good measure better than MDF...
Better than MDF is what way? It is hard to beat MDF if you want something that is sonically "dead".

If you are building a seaker that will see physical abuse, like for use with a guitar am then marine plywood with finger joint is best or even hardwood with figer joints and then cover it with black carpet and metal corners.

But it these will stay in one place and not get move every night MDF is good stuff.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Varnish on old transformer duderduderini Tubes / Valves 12 19th May 2008 02:20 PM
Hot-Rod Varnish Formula John L Full Range 3 12th April 2008 10:03 PM
Recipe for Damar Varnish? bcherry Multi-Way 4 26th August 2005 07:09 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:41 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2