Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Construction Tips Construction techniques and tips

making pc boards
making pc boards
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 3rd January 2012, 01:36 PM   #151
PChi is offline PChi  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Staines, UK
Default Unused UV Light Box


I have an Ultra Violet light box that hasn't been used for a long time. The specifications are:-
Model: Decon 415, Type: UVL-415
Exposure area = 470 x 255 mm, 4 off 15 W tubes, total power 60 W.
Overall dimensions = 625 x 290 x 130 mm excluding hinges and catches
Clockwork adjustable timer, 0 to 6 minutes.
A quick, not recommended, glance at the Ultra Violet light shows that it's working.
The foam on the lid has gone all crunchy and is turning to dust.
It's made of chip board so it's heavy and will need to be collected.
It's free to anyone who can make use of it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Decon UV415.jpg (79.7 KB, 154 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd January 2012, 01:58 PM   #152
KatieandDad is offline KatieandDad  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
KatieandDad's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
Crunchy foam is no probs. Scrape it off and replace with egg box foam.

Tubes need to be replaced regularly though.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd January 2012, 02:07 PM   #153
KatieandDad is offline KatieandDad  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
KatieandDad's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
I'm still trying to get Toner Transfer method right.

Too long under the Iron and the Toner spreads. Too short and it doesn't stick.

This is OK for audio boards with big tracks and plenty of space between tracks.

I wouldn't trust it for high density boards.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd January 2012, 02:11 PM   #154
zdr is offline zdr  Belgium
diyAudio Member
zdr's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Brussels, Beograd
I wish someone could design flatbed laser printer that could print directly on PCBs...
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th January 2012, 03:30 AM   #155
jkuetemann is offline jkuetemann  Canada
diyAudio Member
jkuetemann's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Paris, Ontario
Originally Posted by KatieandDad View Post
For those foraying into UV board production.
3. The print must be completely opaque.

I had problems getting a completely BLACK - SOLID - OPAQUE print using an Inkjet printer and Inkjet transparencies. Every time I tried UV exposure I would get pin pricks through the black areas of print.

A Laser printer does a better job because the toner particles are FUSED together.

Having gone to a Laser Printer why not just print on magazine glossy paper and use toner transfer.
I go to a local printer and have them print my film on an 'Imagesetter'. This is the device they use to make the films for photo process printing plates. The print is absolutely opaque and pin hole free, everytime. If the design is small I have several printed in a letter size film and save these as spares should I damage my working film. They charge me about $10CAD for the pleasure.
---Jason Kuetemann---
Power is only granted to those willing to lower themselves enough to pick it up.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th January 2012, 04:58 AM   #156
BFNY is offline BFNY  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Saratoga NY
Originally Posted by anatech View Post
I bought an IBM 5150 for my shop (no HDs, then the horrid Seagate ST-225 dead things). I also had to buy the $5K luggable, no HD in that either. Dos 2.0, then upgraded to DOS 2.1. Remember DOS 3.0? It had a habit of linking a sub-directory to the root. Instant "sorry about your data" situation.
Geez, you are taking me backkk...My first PC a was a dual floppy Compaq, luggable (sewing machine white case) circa late '82 or early '83.
Then I joined HP, and entered the world of HP computers - HP85 w/ tape drive, HP9836, HP9816, and of course, the real time HP1000's. This was 1984. Microsoft was a tiny blip of a company.
Hard drives of say, 100MB were the size and weight of a small dishwasher.
This was back when floppy disks were single sided or dual sided, and only HP had the cool little 3.5" floppies, again, all single sided to start.

Getting back to PC boards, I played around with many toner transfer products for a long time, and ended up using the Pulsar stuff, with great results. Their toner transfer paper is excellent, but the real key is the very inexpensive TRF foil.

This TRF foil is applied over the toner image once it is on the copper side of the PC board. It is also "ironed on". It bleeds, seals, and fill in gaps on the toner, to make a better image. See the blurb here
PCB "Fab-In-A-Box" ... The 8min circuit board system

I've made a LOT of boards with this stuff, it works. I have no affiliation to them.
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th January 2012, 03:09 AM   #157
PB2 is offline PB2  United States
diyAudio Member
PB2's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: North East
Remember the Fujitsu Eagle drive?
10.5" platters, 600W, 30 seconds to spin up, lol!

Fujitsu Eagle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


We used a Xylogics 440 disk controller that was 2 Multibus 1
boards that included a microcoded bit slice processor.
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th February 2012, 01:00 AM   #158
roline is offline roline  United States
diyAudio Member
roline's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: East Tennessee
Default toner transfer PCB

Still at it with the next project, RIAA preamp. Toner transfer method as my previous post. The last pic is after soaking the pcb in cold water to allow the paper to disolve and lift from the melted toner on the copper. All that is left on the top of the toner is a layer of the clay from the paper. If there are any small voids, I use a paint brush with modeling enamel and do a little touch up. The top of the PCB is black toner with the white clay layer removed. If you scrub too hard, you can remove the toner as well.

Also working on a hybrid tube Mosfet headphone amp with boxandall tone section and a couple of power supply pcbs.
I use green stiff floral foam to mock up the pcb to verify component count and lead spacings. When the PCB is etched and drilled, I just transfer the parts to the PCB.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pcb001_a.jpg (212.3 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg pcb4_a.jpg (147.3 KB, 75 views)
File Type: jpg mack-up2_A.jpg (159.5 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg pcb0001_A.jpg (104.6 KB, 77 views)
SO many tubes, SO little time!!!
  Reply With Quote


making pc boardsHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
L/R Boards and Matched IRFP240 Boards for Aleph/ A-X lgreen Swap Meet 7 25th August 2009 04:56 AM
FS: Conrad Heatsinks;.... 'PASS' B1 boards w/JFETS;...... F4 AMP & PSU boards cowboy99 Swap Meet 5 25th August 2009 02:39 AM
Pass Aleph 1.7 boards, Zhaolu 2.5A, P700 VRDS, UGS PS boards, dac chips analog_sa Swap Meet 4 14th March 2009 05:29 PM
FT: Pass boards for P101 boards bjefferys Swap Meet 1 26th March 2006 07:39 PM
Making of M1 macgyver Multi-Way 2 4th July 2003 01:50 PM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:05 PM.

Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.79%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2017 diyAudio