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Old 14th May 2013, 02:08 PM   #11
redjr is offline redjr  United States
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Danbury, CT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Venture View Post
Hi redjr,

Just spoken to Cristi and told him about your problem. Unfortunately, its likely you've blown your IRS2092 board with over-voltage. 64v compared to 47v is quite a lot higher than the normal value. Its not 100% certain that damage has occurred, but likely. I would recommend finding a suitable power supply and try this with the IRS2092 before sending back to Cristi for repair.

Hope this helps!
Hey thanks Venture for being an advocate for me. I'm actually waiting for a correct voltage traffo to show up (any day now). Hopefully, I'll have it for the weekend.

I hope the amp module was not damaged, but if it is, it's my own fault! So, I'm anxious to re-test it with the correct voltage.

If indeed I need to send it in for repair, do you know what he typically charges? Ballpark would be good, since I know it's somewhat dependent on the parts he has to replace. Hope I don't have to shell out another $100 plus shipping for a new module. That makes for an expensive mistake!

I really like the products he builds and sells, and appreciate the quality parts and 'fit-n-finish' of his work. IMO it's top-notch and you can tell.

Rick
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Old 14th May 2013, 05:53 PM   #12
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Hi Rick,

I can't really guess on the cost of a repair to the board but I will say that Cristi won't charge you for a new one, because he's not like that. It will simply be the cost of the components replaced I suspect. Did it go bang quite badly or just a quiet pop? Generally speaking, higher power devices like the output FETs go with quite a show but that depends on the failure mode. With any luck it might just be the IRS2092 or even luckier nothing at all.
Let us know what happens, and make sure you put some fuses in line with the supplies going to the board when you power it up.

Good luck.
 
Old 16th May 2013, 12:10 AM   #13
redjr is offline redjr  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Danbury, CT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Venture View Post
Hi Rick,

I can't really guess on the cost of a repair to the board but I will say that Cristi won't charge you for a new one, because he's not like that. It will simply be the cost of the components replaced I suspect. Did it go bang quite badly or just a quiet pop? Generally speaking, higher power devices like the output FETs go with quite a show but that depends on the failure mode. With any luck it might just be the IRS2092 or even luckier nothing at all.
Let us know what happens, and make sure you put some fuses in line with the supplies going to the board when you power it up.

Good luck.
There was definitely no fireworks with whatever happened - if indeed it did happen. Hope not. I didn't get any response from the amp. Can't remember exactly what the LED(s) did, but they did light up. It was literally just a few seconds after that, that I realized my mistake and quickly pulled the mains power. I have a built-in habit of, if an amp doesn't produce some sound almost immediately, I pull the plug quickly, very quickly. Especially one without a volume control.

BTW, I did have a fuse in my power inlet, but it didn't blow. I was literally, pulling out a Sure IRS2092 module in an amp I had built that was failing and replacing it with Cristi's module. I have much more confidence in Cristi's module, as I know it has been built to my quality standards and then some. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

My new traffo should show up Friday, so hopefully will be able to test it.

Rick
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Old 16th May 2013, 01:04 AM   #14
Cristi is offline Cristi  Europe
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dortmund+Shenzhen
redjr,

the 2x200W amplifier uses 100V MOS-FET's because their body diode is better than 150V ones and this is reflected both in efficiency and THD values. I successfully tested the prototypes up to +-56V with 100V MOS-FET's !!!! but this should not become a habit. over-voltage protection is set for ~ +-47-48V to mute the module within safe supply voltage interval. As is written in the manual this protection is not meant to protect the amp if one supply mugh higher voltage or even connect it on the wall plug but to protect agains damage which can ocur due bus pumping. when the voltage increase above the theshold the amp will mute and the pumping will stop. the detection circuit have a time constant of ~ 50ms to avoid false tripping due to near-by switching noise but this is not a problem because the large electrolytics have even longer time constant.
what happens if higher voltage is applied ? like +-65V ? well, the caps will charge much faster, and depending on the size of transformer and time needed to ramp up the voltage to dangerous levels (over +-56 which I tested as being survivable) might be shorter than those 50ms and one or more MOS-FET's might be damaged. If there's no short accross supply rails, that's a good news, at least one survived. the IRS2092 can withstand up to 200V. and two 100V MOS-FET's can also withstand to 200V supply voltage IF the amp is muted on time, because the central node has nearly zero potential and each MOS-FET see only 100V across D-S.

Anyway, my suggestion is to use a lower supply voltage and test again. also measure each MOS-FET and see if they are shorted or not.


Connexelectronic
Warranty:
All the complete products except unassembled kits have 3 months warranty from the purchase date and we offer support for installation, configuration and guidance to avoid malfunction. If the product has issues or you are not sure about its features, please mail us first instead asking on various internet places.
The chance that a third party to be able to support an issue and answer to a question better than we can is minimal. Moreover, unqualified support will increase the chance of of doing something wrong or even damage, and we do not encourage to ask for support as it can lead to loss of warranty if the products were damaged following wrong advices given by unauthorized persons.
We are convinced that we know more about our own products than someone else, and we pursuide to ask us first. In case of malfunction, the product must be sent back, we will evaluate the condition and the cause of damage, and we will repair or exchange, depending on the condition. If the product was damaged by itself, DOA or due shipping, and not because neglijence, intentionally or improper usage, it will be no charge for repair or replace, just for shipping back.
The shipping cost back and forth will be supported by the customer. If the product need to be repaired after the 3 months warrany period, we can repair without charging the labor cost, just the price of the parts, and the shipping back after is repaired. We can provide assistance for diagnosing a malfuncion product or identify if the product is really damaged or just connected incorrectly, but we cannot repair the product remotely by phone or email due to the complexity of the circuits, lack of tools and parts on the customers side and deifnatelly the risk involved with high voltages present on the boards. For complete and professional repair, test or replace service the product MUST be sent back. Same as a car which cannot be repaired by phone or email and must be brought back in a qualified service.
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Old 18th May 2013, 04:11 PM   #15
redjr is offline redjr  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Danbury, CT
Hi guys...

Update and good news! I swapped in a 30VAC CT traffo earlier this morning yielding a very solid +-42VDC from my PSU and the IRS2092 module powered up beautifully and sounded great. Just casually listening with my bench speakers and after a few tracks, I noticed much more solid bass. Everything sounded smooth, a bit refined with vocals and the mids coming through cleanly and precisely.

I was a pushing the volume a bit, for about 20 minutes and the heat-sink was only mildly warm - nothing to be concerned about. The louder I pushed it, the cleaner and 'crisper' it souonded. And the bass really pronnounced and solid, but not boomy. I'm really starting to enjoy the sonic qualities and overall characteristics of class D amp sound.

I'll hook it up later to my little, Andrew Jones designed Pioneer, SP-BS22 LP bookshelf speakers and give a longer listen.

Cristi - I think I will place an order later today for the 400wpc channel version that does play nicer with my original PSU of +-60-66VDC. I like to have the extra power in reserve.

I'm thrilled the module still works after my insanely stupid mistake, and I think it's a testament - and solid endorsement - of the quality (of both parts and build) you put into your amp modules. I'm a very satisfied customer.

Rick
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Old 17th November 2013, 09:59 AM   #16
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Hello Cristi,
I need to power a sub with 300w@10ohms ; what is the difference between a modular amp set at 600w@4ohms and a CxD3008ohms ? Any advice ? I consider the modular amp because it has the protection already mounted, but I also need a delay protection, not only DC protection.
Thanks
 
Old 23rd November 2013, 08:36 AM   #17
Cristi is offline Cristi  Europe
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Dortmund+Shenzhen
The 600W on 4R amplifier has higher current capability than the 300W 8R amplifier module, and the output filter is matched for 4 or 8 R load impedance. for your sub, the CxD300-8R should work fine. It has ~ one second delay at turn on to prevent any click/pop noise.
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Old 23rd November 2013, 08:47 AM   #18
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Thanks Cristi !
 

 


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