Hi Cristi - Same here.
I have >100 db efficiency speakers and don't need a lot of power. As Paul Klipsch used to say "it's the first watt that counts". What I need is extremely clean, quiet power.
This new series from TI is really sounding good. I need 8 channels for our active crossover system. Completed boards are the only way for me. Onboard smps would be a plus, as would multi-channel.
I think if you could get ahead of the competition in having these amps to market you could generate a lot of sales.
Thanks for considering this.
Best Regards,
Rod
+1 on interest in TPA3116D2 amp. I have built both the 3118 and 3116, they sound exactly the same but the 3116 has higher power capability. They are fantastic sounding amps and from what I have seen, very tolerant to PCB layout as I made a deadbug on paper with foil and it is noise free.
I am not interested in on board power supply though - need to use external smps brick.
I am not interested in on board power supply though - need to use external smps brick.
Ok. I'll chime in too. The 12V (24V) market needs a new amp that is more flexible than the horde of Tripath based ones out there, and the TPA3116 does appear to me like the first really good alternative.
The 12V market for those that don't know it are those that build portable equipment that needs long battery life so standard car equipment is out of the picture due to that market having abysmal efficiency.
I actually have an almost completed perfect pcb lay-out in mind using industry standard parts like half brick heatsinks and molex power connectors. Half brick heat sinks because they cost very little (under $5 in single quantity) and are perfectly sized for a compact amp. Molex 2x2 connector because it's position keyed and is able to draw up to 8A per contact (16A total which is 1A above absolute maximum peak current draw) something which normally used DC connectors cannot do, and then they're also very cheap.
Need I comment that no built-in smps as the 12V (24V) market is battery/solar powered. No need for large bulk caps either.
The 12V market for those that don't know it are those that build portable equipment that needs long battery life so standard car equipment is out of the picture due to that market having abysmal efficiency.
I actually have an almost completed perfect pcb lay-out in mind using industry standard parts like half brick heatsinks and molex power connectors. Half brick heat sinks because they cost very little (under $5 in single quantity) and are perfectly sized for a compact amp. Molex 2x2 connector because it's position keyed and is able to draw up to 8A per contact (16A total which is 1A above absolute maximum peak current draw) something which normally used DC connectors cannot do, and then they're also very cheap.
Need I comment that no built-in smps as the 12V (24V) market is battery/solar powered. No need for large bulk caps either.
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C'mon Cristi, how can you resist us!?
3116
12v to max voltage.
Not onboard psu.
Be able to stack for active use, perhaps by using the voltage limiting capabilities on board or just gain controls.
Configurable to mono or stereo configuration on same board.
Not sure how a designers end goes, i just read the datasheet as best i can
see what i want from it.
12v to max voltage.
Not onboard psu.
Be able to stack for active use, perhaps by using the voltage limiting capabilities on board or just gain controls.
Configurable to mono or stereo configuration on same board.
Not sure how a designers end goes, i just read the datasheet as best i can
see what i want from it.
That's great to hear Cristi! Thanks for being so responsive/
I already gave my wishes, but upon further reflection I really don't think it needs the on-board power supply. Would just make the board larger than need be for most peoples usage. Speaker protection would be important though.
Thanks again.
Rod
I agree
I agree with you and the other fellows about the on-board power supply. Perhaps Christi could do a separate board for that, with easy hookup to the amp board. Or, at least recommend an appropriate switch mode type power supply that is reasonably priced.
SPEAKER PROTECTION is mandatory! I forgot to request that when I originally chimed in my preferences. So I'm glad you thought of that.
I'd really like to see terminal block type hookups for power, maybe the inputs, and for the speakers.
Mark
I agree with you and the other fellows about the on-board power supply. Perhaps Christi could do a separate board for that, with easy hookup to the amp board. Or, at least recommend an appropriate switch mode type power supply that is reasonably priced.
SPEAKER PROTECTION is mandatory! I forgot to request that when I originally chimed in my preferences. So I'm glad you thought of that.
I'd really like to see terminal block type hookups for power, maybe the inputs, and for the speakers.
Mark
Clarification
I'd like to add to my earlier suggestions about the design of this.
What I meant by "speaker protection" is just something so there's no nasty "snap" when the amp is turned on or off.
Not some complicated thing that will muddy up the sound.
I'm messing with a tiny (half the size of a credit card) amp now, that is really good and is just about as simple as can be. Great sound and no "snaps" either. See this if interested:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/231988-what-heck-its-less-than-lunch.html
I'm not trying to hijack this discussion. Just using my $6 as an example of simplicity with goodness.
I think it would be great if the proposed amp was built as close as possible to the way Texas Instruments envisioned it, with possibly some extra capacitance as XRK and others are experimenting with on the other thread here at diyAudio.
The power supply should be a separate thing in my opinion. Trains of thought differ so much on this. Wouldn't it be best to just have the audio board easily rigged to the power board or a simple switch mode computer type power supply?
That way if the power supply ever failed, the audio board won't be just tossed away.
Keep it simple. Let's not make this a designed by committee affair -- a "mix" radio station, if you will, that isn't good for anything. Let's ROCK from the beginning, then let the folks who think everything HAS to be modified do as they will.
My feeling is I let the people at say, Texas Instruments, who are way smarter than I prevail and pretty much leave things stock. Unless a DIY wizard can prove the original designers compromised something because they needed to achieve a price point, etc.
Mark
I'd like to add to my earlier suggestions about the design of this.
What I meant by "speaker protection" is just something so there's no nasty "snap" when the amp is turned on or off.
Not some complicated thing that will muddy up the sound.
I'm messing with a tiny (half the size of a credit card) amp now, that is really good and is just about as simple as can be. Great sound and no "snaps" either. See this if interested:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/231988-what-heck-its-less-than-lunch.html
I'm not trying to hijack this discussion. Just using my $6 as an example of simplicity with goodness.
I think it would be great if the proposed amp was built as close as possible to the way Texas Instruments envisioned it, with possibly some extra capacitance as XRK and others are experimenting with on the other thread here at diyAudio.
The power supply should be a separate thing in my opinion. Trains of thought differ so much on this. Wouldn't it be best to just have the audio board easily rigged to the power board or a simple switch mode computer type power supply?
That way if the power supply ever failed, the audio board won't be just tossed away.
Keep it simple. Let's not make this a designed by committee affair -- a "mix" radio station, if you will, that isn't good for anything. Let's ROCK from the beginning, then let the folks who think everything HAS to be modified do as they will.
My feeling is I let the people at say, Texas Instruments, who are way smarter than I prevail and pretty much leave things stock. Unless a DIY wizard can prove the original designers compromised something because they needed to achieve a price point, etc.
Mark
It certainly could, but then there are two boards (or in my case four) to build, and if they are to share power supplies the question of whether there will be intercation between them or not.
I think there is a market for mono/stereo amps and a market for multi-channel. This low powered chip does suit mult-channel/active setups well I think - and in my case I would like a single board per (3 way) speaker if I can get it.