4th Annual Vancouver Island diyFEST 2007

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yup.....

but everyone I've asked about these has never fiound the plans (which are easy enough to find), oh great pooba.

er the MLV looks like an untwisted Ace, if using proper grammar...and yup, chris, that's a phase plug...

audio porn to follow. Had a quick listen. not as bad as many suggest about mid 70's speakers.
 
leadbelly said:


Now these I *really* *really* like. Any info on how to build one?


think small - close to "classic" Voight pipe - the only clues given by Terry were :

Noogi began as a need for a bench top monitor in our assembly area. But
it had to be classy. We already knew what to do. What surprised us,
surprised everyone who visited, the big sound.

As shrinks the sound point source, so enlarges the sonic panorama.
Vocals hang in space completely detached from the baffle. These small
drivers have the greatest cone to magnet ratio far exceeding that of
larger drivers. This accounts for the lifelike timber to percussion and
their ease with vocals making larger systems work for their clarity.

The drivers center dome is attached directly to the voice coil and
accounts for stunning >30khz performance. The surround of he driver is
the same “flip-flop” surround as seen on the topline Fostex monitors. It
simply all added up to something that we had to put to good use.

Reviewers and audiophiles wanted some, so here they are. Handmade of
solid wood and veneers, a bit of CNC machining thrown in for accuracy
and economy. A 1/3rd scale Abby that works hard to right the scale sonically.

Intended for the desktop, and built for a bench top. Use them in the
kitchen or office. Already they are finding their way into civilized
home theater settings.

6x6x29 inches



FF85K


Does make one think about adding bass driver below 200 or so, but then the cuteness factor is shot.
 
Re: Re: Re: Chip Amp Board Schematic

chrisb said:



I'm as curious as Dave about this description- is this a reference to the EnAbled FE127s which were sacrificed to the spirit of audio smoke Saturday evening?

If not, you'll need to narrow it down a bit - there were probably a dozen pair of Fostex based systems played during the course of the event.


I think what Kevin is referring to is the Fostex 108e Sigma's that were played in the Dbl horn on the back deck. Earlier in this thread he had wondered what they were and described them as looking like someone had stepped on them ;)

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: Chip Amp Board Schematic

TerryO said:



I think what Kevin is referring to is the Fostex 108e Sigma's that were played in the Dbl horn on the back deck. Earlier in this thread he had wondered what they were and described them as looking like someone had stepped on them ;)

Best Regards,
TerryO


not squashed - rather an elaborate stamped cone designed to reduce resonances - a close inspection of the surround and spider will reveal Fostex has more than a few tricks up their sleeve besides just bigger magnets .

http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/fe108ez.pdf

Yup, they did sound quite sweet indeed - FWIW, the best performance I've heard yet from this driver.
 
Re: Re: Chip Amp Board Schematic

Kevin Haskins said:


I see Terry beat me to this. I've been pretty busy the last couple days. Got a good picture of Terry in a skirt too. Not a pretty sight....

The PCB is for the LM4780. The link above should work and you need to look at the reference PCB design. The only real difference is the layout, and the fact that I used lots of parallel caps for the output caps.

Kevin used a total of 12 (1000uF, 50 Volt) caps, whereas the Nat'l Semiconductor (NS) schematic used only 2 caps(C58 &C59). The Gainclone legend has it that the use of small caps allows a faster recharge rate than a couple of, say 10,000 uF caps. That particular point is absolutely true AFAIK, but Kevin packed the Board with 1000uF caps in parallel which allows for very fast recharge, with the added advantage of a vastly superior reserve supply. If you don't need or want that much reserve, you can get by with a couple of caps.


Also... looking at the Visitons and the Hemp 8". The Qtc on the D200s is up around 0.72 and the Hemps have a Qtc= 0.40 The Hemps are not a drop-in replacement on the same baffle. I'd like to hear them in the appropriate set-up as the 4" sounded pretty damn good. It and the squashed Fostex where my favorites. [/B]


Here my friends, is Kevin's reference to the Squashtex 108e Sigma drivers :^)


EDDIEMUNSTER said:
Thanks Terry and Kevin. I haven't had a chance to take a detailed look at the schematic or parts list but may have a couple of questions. One that comes to mind now is do I make my own power supply complete with rectification or is there rectification on the board. Also, some of the parts including the B's don't seem to be on the parts list. I assume that these are caps?

Sorry about my limited knowledge of electronics. I can build stuff with a board, schematic and a parts list but if some information is left out I stumble a bit. Tube stuff seems easier to build. Just join the dots. I have built several solid state projects by Elliot Sound in Australia and a couple of DIY Paradise items with boards.

Would either of you (Terry or Kevin) mind me emailing you with a couple of other questions? I shouldn't have to many more.

Cheers,
Doug

Doug,
On the board, the "B" and "T" marking on the silk side is just indicating Bottom or Top for the cap orientation. Again, if you intend to use more than 6 caps (3 pairs), be sure to install them in pairs starting with the top pair, then install the bottom pair, then another top pair and so forth. Also, Mouser has a Vishay bridge rectifier for about $4.72 (USD), I'll post a part number for you in a bit, as I don't have it handy.

Kevin's pretty busy now through the weekend, but I think he'll have some comments after that.

Hope this helps,
Best Regards,
TerryO
 
More on Kevin's PCB

Ok, I found the Mouser part number for the bridge rectifier.
It is : 625-GBPC25005-E4

I should let Kevin address this, but I think that he felt that with a Fused IEC socket, you could go to a power switch then another fuse to the Transformer followed by the bridge rectifier (FWIW: this is a large bridge rectifier, install it in a "Dead Bug" configuration). The outputs of the rectifier then go onto the board's supply inputs (V- and V+).

The sun is starting to show, so I have to go and nail up some siding on the house. I'll check back later.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
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