Hey Everyone
I've had one of these sitting around for a while now....getting no use and I've figured I would try a few mods.
A couple of questions for people that have worked on this amp. I want to run new coupling caps directly off of new RCAs straight to the amp board.
Can anyone tell me what points on the amp board I need to solder the caps to?
Also, I want to run the output straight to new binding posts. Where are the output points on the amp board that I can wire the binding posts to?
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Thanks!!
Jim
I've had one of these sitting around for a while now....getting no use and I've figured I would try a few mods.
A couple of questions for people that have worked on this amp. I want to run new coupling caps directly off of new RCAs straight to the amp board.
Can anyone tell me what points on the amp board I need to solder the caps to?
Also, I want to run the output straight to new binding posts. Where are the output points on the amp board that I can wire the binding posts to?
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Thanks!!
Jim
Solder the directly from the RCA jacks to the positive connection (opposite side of the white band) of where the coupling capacitors are located which is C809 & C808. The stock capacitors are labeled 2.2uf 50v.
There are point ferrite boards placed right after the inductors-- 8085, 8087, 8084, and 8086. The tripath board might invert the speaker outputs so you might try inverting them. I am not positive on this though. You will have to bypass the output relay if you plan to solder at these points mentioned above. I hope this helps.
There are point ferrite boards placed right after the inductors-- 8085, 8087, 8084, and 8086. The tripath board might invert the speaker outputs so you might try inverting them. I am not positive on this though. You will have to bypass the output relay if you plan to solder at these points mentioned above. I hope this helps.
I would suggest removal of the second board to lesson the current draw on the SMPS. Makes a useful reduction in heat generated by the chip on that board running idle in a 2 channel system.
The 1000uf 35V cap can be replaced by a Panasonic 1800uf 35V FM series without much trouble and gives a smoother sound IMHO.
It is best to remove the 2 input capacitors and hard wire from the board to some 2.2uf PIO or good PP caps of your choice that you can hard wire to new input skts on the back panel. be careful with the wiring as I found poorly routed wiring caused mine to pick-up low levels of switching noise that could be heard at high volume. Twisted pairs of Teflon insulated silver plated wire-wrap wire worked for me. Drilling 2 small holes in the small board mounted heatsink allows you to keep the wiring as short as possible and to solder the wires to the pads vacated by the removed input caps.
Whilst the heatsink is removed take-off points for wiring to the speaker jacks can be implemented by connecting to the relay contacts and relevent points on the ferrites as previously mentioned.
Be careful with the heatsink removed to not wipe the heatsink compound all over the chip pins and ensure none of your new wiring can short to the heatsink when it is refitted. I actually removed the motherboard that the 2 amp boards plugged into and removed the cheap and nasty connectors used and hard wired the remaining amp board with solid core cable using the original connector fixing holes. Pig to refit everything but that and the Panasonic cap and 2 PIO's made for a much better soundin amp IMHO.
The 1000uf 35V cap can be replaced by a Panasonic 1800uf 35V FM series without much trouble and gives a smoother sound IMHO.
It is best to remove the 2 input capacitors and hard wire from the board to some 2.2uf PIO or good PP caps of your choice that you can hard wire to new input skts on the back panel. be careful with the wiring as I found poorly routed wiring caused mine to pick-up low levels of switching noise that could be heard at high volume. Twisted pairs of Teflon insulated silver plated wire-wrap wire worked for me. Drilling 2 small holes in the small board mounted heatsink allows you to keep the wiring as short as possible and to solder the wires to the pads vacated by the removed input caps.
Whilst the heatsink is removed take-off points for wiring to the speaker jacks can be implemented by connecting to the relay contacts and relevent points on the ferrites as previously mentioned.
Be careful with the heatsink removed to not wipe the heatsink compound all over the chip pins and ensure none of your new wiring can short to the heatsink when it is refitted. I actually removed the motherboard that the 2 amp boards plugged into and removed the cheap and nasty connectors used and hard wired the remaining amp board with solid core cable using the original connector fixing holes. Pig to refit everything but that and the Panasonic cap and 2 PIO's made for a much better soundin amp IMHO.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.