Hook-up Wire Advice please! - Amp4 - diyAudio
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Old 31st January 2007, 06:46 PM   #1
Peteruk is offline Peteruk  United Kingdom
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Default Hook-up Wire Advice please! - Amp4

Hey all,

Yet again, another post about how to finish off the 41Hz amp4 kit I'm modifying.

Basically, I'm considering what wire/cable to use for the signal path wire for the input, power (from an SLA battery) and output signal paths.

As for gauges, I'm considering using AWG16 for the output and power, and AWG23 for the input, as I'm aware these are generally preferred for these uses.

I had originally planned to use hand drawn .999% silver insulated with beeswax-permeated cotton from Electrum Audio. I was assured the wire would not suffer from the usual 'brightness' associated with silver, and that the detail and 'soundstage' would be much increased.

However, I then found out that braiding the wires has a noise-cancelling effect, which is particularly important in class D to remove switching noise. I'm not entirely sure if braiding of the Electrum Audio wire would be possible. Considering this, I thought perhaps Cat5e cable would be a good idea, as I've heard many people rave about this being suitable for speaker cable wire.

Additionally, I've seen many good wire products from Percy Audio, VHaudio andDiyaudiostore, but I'm still rather lost as to what to go for.

In other words, any help/recommendations would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Peter
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Old 1st February 2007, 07:01 AM   #2
hsu is offline hsu  Turkey
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You can try Cardas wires from Parts connexion,best for the money I think...
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Old 1st February 2007, 06:07 PM   #3
Peteruk is offline Peteruk  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by hsu
You can try Cardas wires from Parts connexion,best for the money I think...

Looks good, but two concerns about it:

A) Apparently you need a very high temperature to remove the insulation on the wire strands.

B) It's a litz construction, what's important to know about the differences between this and solid core?

Thanks for the post!
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Old 2nd February 2007, 08:28 AM   #4
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Why not use a good shielded cable on your inputs? I always do for tripath amps. Canare musical instrument cable is very nice if you have the room, and it's double shielded. (Be careful stripping it)

When space is a problem I use Mogami console cable. Much easier to work with and tiny. Keeping the noise out of your inputs is a good idea.

For the speaker wire I use a silver coated copper with Teflon insulation because it is easy to solder, plentiful and cheap. The same stuff works great for power wiring, too. In some of the Class-A amps I built in the past, copper bars were used n the power section.

But I don't go crazy over wiring. W'e're talking about a few inches of wire here, not meters or miles, There are soooo many more things that will affect the sound more than these little bits of wire. I just used well made wire suited to the purpose and I'm happy.
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Old 3rd February 2007, 06:20 AM   #5
hsu is offline hsu  Turkey
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Default Soldering is not that hard..

I just press the solder on the wire for about 10 seconds on a metal surface;you may need a strong soldering device.I am not sure if solid core makes any diference..I use the 2.2 mfd caps as the input wire.
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Old 20th February 2007, 05:20 PM   #6
Peteruk is offline Peteruk  United Kingdom
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Thanks for your reply panomaniac!

Sorry for the delay in attending to this thread...


Quote:
Originally posted by panomaniac
Why not use a good shielded cable on your inputs? I always do for tripath amps. Canare musical instrument cable is very nice if you have the room, and it's double shielded. (Be careful stripping it)
Sounds good, but I had been informed that the only problem with shielded cable is that 'it increases the capacitance of your wire and cable and tends to roll off the high frequencies.'

That said, I have had some problem with RFI with previous amps (I use my Hifi gear with my PC, can lead to some issues ...).

I was hoping that perhaps if I incorporate shielding into the case somehow, then I might be able to leave it off the cable...

Your thoughts?

Also, do you know where I might be able to purchase that particular cable you mention?


Quote:
Originally posted by panomaniac
There are soooo many more things that will affect the sound more than these little bits of wire. [/B]
Indeed. I'm just trying to make the little differences where I can .


Quote:
Originally posted by
hsu

I use the 2.2 mfd caps as the input [/B]
That thought actually escaped me, could be a possibility if practicalities allow...

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm very convinced by VH Audio's 18AWG OCC Copper hook-up wire for the power connection.

Also, I'm considering scraping hook-up wire for the output, and soldering new speaker cable to the board.

I know this really needs a new thread, but I was wondering if anyone has any passing thoughts on recommendations?

I'm quite interested in the DIY Cat5e cable on VHaudio. My current speaker wire is a QED Silver Anniversary XT (around £5.50 a metre).

Thanks to all who can help!
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Old 21st February 2007, 10:39 PM   #7
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Default High Frequency Roll Off

You only get high frequency roll with shielded cable off if the amp has a very input impedance. If the amp has a more normal say 10K input impedance, shielded cable won't cause a roll off until the hundreds of KHz. Specially at the short distance you need it for. But the lower the amp's input impedance, the less roll off cable will give you. Butif you go too low, generally below 2K, the more distortion you will get from what you are using to drive it.
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Old 21st February 2007, 11:40 PM   #8
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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I'm very happy with the thin tinned copper litz wire for the inputs (twisted it myself), a couple of the same wires in parallel for the speaker-outputs and thicker twisted pair (also tinned copper) for the power leads. (in my latest AMP32 and AMP9)

I think it should match certain quality specs, but I let it depend much on the price of the amp. A prestigeous project deserves more expensive cables.

I DO have Van Den Hul, Ixos, Monster, Artspeak and many other exotic brand cables, but many of them probably have greater specs than my ears..

I once sold these cables and with very long lengths I could hear differences, but sometimes I wondered whether it was the actual cable quality, or the way it was placed (loops and twists, the way of connecting it...) or other influences? Neither does it tell what the best quality cable is on a short length..

Anyway, there's no need to buy the most expensive cables. The way it is placed is allready more important, for instance don't make any loops in the cables near the transformer or maybe even chokes and the PCB.

Always make sure a hot wire stays near a ground wire or grounded surface. (it is not always necessary to shield the whole surface around hot wires).

And keep them as short as possible (evades most of the above...)

My
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