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| Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Hi,
I'm trying to spec a portable, battery powered PA system towed by a bicycle or possibly a tandem. It's meant for serious sound on the move, not just transportable. Obviously this needs to be LOUD and relatevely lightweight and efficient because this is a battery powered beast. Hi-Fi quality is not really relevant, so long as it can throw out some beats. So far, it looks like a 12" or 15" Neodymium woofer in a ported box or maybe a bandpass box if it can be made to work without getting too big. Just looking for effiency here. The mids and tops will be all horns. All running off class-D amps. The bit I really need help on is the battery configuration, power rails and getting something like 2-300 watts from D amp. From what I see, you normally need somewhere near +-40v to reach this output. How can I do with with batteries (safely!) Strapping 8 SLA's together in series sounds like trouble...? Is it possible to invert upward *really* effiently to get the required supply? Any other comments or tips appreciated. Can anyone point to some low(ish) cost class-D amp modules for this? TIA Paul. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Seattle USA
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Search around for a Blaupunkt PA2150
Discontinued, but a good car amp. Car amps include a SMPS to raise the voltage to what they need. So for the street price of around $100 this is a good deal for a 400w class-d (class-t) amp. Consider horn loaded designs for the low end - it will make a world of difference on volume. See: http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/index.html Look into using composite, or foam core plywood for lighter speaker cabinets. Batteries will be heavy unless you spend a fortune on LIon |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: North Derbyshire
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When you say 'serious sound' what are you trying to do, and how much power do you think you might need?.
Be careful if you consider car amps, most of them have highly imaginative ratings!.
__________________
Nigel Goodwin |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Quote:
This isn't for personal entertainment, more of a rolling street party... How much power? Enough to push a 12" or 15" bass unit to its near-limit without too much stress. Mostly dance-orientated music. Car amps - I know they're usually very optimistic, but I wanted to stay away from them as efficiency is not usually a great consideration for them, and for me it is. I'm making that assumption that even with a class-D car amp. I was wondering what the 'normal' approach would be to getting +-40 volts from a 12v supply. Switching PSU? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Poland
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Here: http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_30295/article.html you can find a description of such a system published in Australian magazine. It seems to me that the boards to this kit can be purchased in England (but I don't remember the company name).
Marek |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I guess Bill Fitzmaurice has been kicked off the forum but he does have a website. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Do you know of any projects that have used 'foam core' for this?
Is foam-core like this - http://www.paperstone.co.uk/prod_146...10-Sheets.aspx I've refered to it as foam-board before, and only used it for mounting photos onto, but it is very light and relatively stiff.... Is is the same? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Someone mention to me once that a bandpass box can be more efficeint even than a horn design, does anyone know if thats true for the same box volume ?
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Quote:
Sounds like bliss (no wood-working required!). Was your design similar to this one ?: http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/autotuba.html More questions: How do you create structural bonds between the panels, like between a bracing piece and a sidewall? When you say cloth tape, you mean like 'Duck' tape? Know where I can find a 4 ohm neodymium subwoofer between 8" and 12" ? TIA |
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