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Old 16th March 2013, 03:59 AM   #1391
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
Can anyone recommend the best type and sizes caps to use to bypass the tone control circuits? I have also heard that replacing the inductors would help with the overall sound Quality, is so could someone recommend the sizes for them as well. I am going to consider modifying this amp to be my break-in project. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 17th March 2013, 03:16 AM   #1392
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
I’m completely new to all this, I did not even know what the hell the wiki thing was. I found it and read it. There are some useful things in it; however the schematic attached to the article does not seem to be an exact match for my version. My red board appears to have different parts than the one shown in the article. Anyway I did some additional leg work and found some parts that may work for the upgrades. If anyone would like to add any comments to the following part list, please do. Thanks.

Output Inductor upgrade:

Mouser P/N 652-RL622-100K-RC Bourns 10uH 3A Inductor tested at 2.52 Mhz

Input power Inductor upgrade:

Mouser P/N 580-19R103C Bourns 10uH 6A Inductor

Bypass Op amp Capacitors

(I have found two choices)

Parts Express P/N 027-415 Dayton Audio Polypropylene 2.2uF 5% 250V
Parts Express P/N 027-916 Janzten Polypropylene 2.2uF 5% 400V
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Old 29th March 2013, 05:19 PM   #1393
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Join Date: May 2007
Have just gone through all the posts and saw these inductors which I have just ordered
@ 10pcs Toroid Inductor 10uH 6A Toroidal Ferrite Core Choke Coil TC33-e3 | eBay
thought you may be interested as they are 10US$.
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Old 30th March 2013, 10:48 PM   #1394
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Default @blossom, raspberry , dac and ta202à

Hi Blossom,
your config is what I build:
I have an upgraded lepai ta2020 linked to a DAC (from hifimedy) linked to a raspberry.
No hard disk, network use.

Compared to my Denon AVR 1912, sound quality is better, but it feel less 'spacial' : the room is not completly filled by the sound. Maybe a good DSP is requested.

Some tips:
Raspberry pi just improve the firmware to allow DAC working fine.
I am using Raspbian, with mpd, and a cheap chinese tablet as remote.
It works better than XBMC.
USB hub not required for me as hifimedy has its own power supply.

cheap, clean, and really really good sound quality.

lot of work to do, and battle with my girlfriend.
lot of cables (1 for Dac, 1 for raspberry, 1 for amplifier)

When I bought this simple amp, my goal was to compare it to my Denon AVR 1912, and to know if I will invest in a better home made amp (like IRS 2092).

I am not desapointed, and I will invest in an IRS 2092.

Total price:
well, ~20$ for lepai, ~20$ for modding.
~35$ for raspberry pi. maybe 10$ for flash card.
$60 for the chinese tablet.
+external DAC.

let say $150~$200 you have a complete and quality good sound system. it is comparable to my AVR1912, but with input sound system with remote tablet.
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Old 31st March 2013, 05:15 PM   #1395
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Simple question here, but how do we remove the knobs on the lepai face without breaking them? I think I have the more recent model.

I'm asking because I want to fix my lepai into a 5.25in bay in my pc case to reduce clutter. (and then somehow deal with an extra power cord power supply snaking out of it)
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Old 31st March 2013, 09:00 PM   #1396
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Hey everyone,
New member, been lurking for a while. Completely new to the diy audio scene, so cut me some slack.
My question is:
I got a good deal on logitech z623 2.1 system, an I was wondering is it worth connecting the lepai 2020A+ amp to it. I want to hook everything up to my laptop, but don't know what cables should i get/how to connect them.

Thank you,
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Old 31st March 2013, 09:31 PM   #1397
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Antonio
The Logitech product support page shows this as an active speaker system. It has built-in power amplifiers, with more power than the 2020A+ provides. If you bought the system new it should include cables for an analog connection to your laptop.
It is error only, and not truth, that shrinks from enquiry. - Thomas Paine
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Old 4th April 2013, 06:02 PM   #1398
nps is offline nps  United Kingdom
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bath
Originally Posted by kevinbranco View Post
Simple question here, but how do we remove the knobs on the lepai face without breaking them? I think I have the more recent model.

I'm asking because I want to fix my lepai into a 5.25in bay in my pc case to reduce clutter. (and then somehow deal with an extra power cord power supply snaking out of it)
Should be able to get a small flat underneath them and lever off, they are a bit tight but no way tight enough to break them. Having removed the volume know you will need to then unscrew the nut holding the plastic on and will also need to unsolder the power switch before you can remove the front plate. Should be no more than 5mins for the whole disassemble if the iron is hot. As to power supply do you have a spare PCI slot? If so could mount a the female end of a DC extension lead on the blank and then run to the amp inside the case.
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Old 7th April 2013, 11:51 AM   #1399
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Join Date: Apr 2013
I bought a lepai lp-2020 for few months ago, or, I bought 3... Altough, each singel one is now broken... When I started them before I allways heard a *click*-sound and when i start it now it just the sound of silence. Does anyone has an idéa about what i could be and how I fix it?
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Old 9th April 2013, 12:45 PM   #1400
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Join Date: Mar 2013
I want to add a "clip" (not "fault") LED to the LP2020, but have not found an actual circuit. Has anybody done it? What is not clear to me is whether the OVERLOADB pin on the TA2020 goes high when there is no fault, or does it float? The chip's doc only says that it is "5V logic" and goes low when there is an overload. If it normally goes high, I'm thinking of a circuit like this:

OVERLOADB -> 5K resistor -> base of an NPN bipolar transistor. The Emitter to ground. The collector to the positive end of one of the diodes that lights up the volume knob, between the LED and the resistor the supplies it with power. (Can also replace the LED with a red one. And can also add more resistance to that supply line to reduce the LED current somewhat.) The idea is that normally (when there is no overload) the transistor will be driven to conduct and bypass the LED so it will not light up. But that depends on that OVERLOADB pin going high normally. If that's not the case then a more complicated circuit would be needed. If that pin is an open collector, can it take 12V when open-circuit?
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