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Old 30th December 2011, 10:13 AM   #1031
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Optimusone View Post
Thank you for your reply

According to the ta2020 datasheet pin 10 & 13 are designated as input pins..shall i input the signal to these pins with a 2.2 uf cap?

what side should be connected to the audio signal (+ or - side) ?

do i need to remove other parts (such as preamp etc..) in order to continue this test ?

Thanks
No, just desolder the caps that he have circled (you can desolder them and use as they are 2.2uf), and input signal to the amp in the point you have desoldered the caps (will be two spots on each cap, you should input the + side of the audio signal through the cap and to the point that is near the TA2020 chip).
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Old 2nd January 2012, 04:20 AM   #1032
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Default In Dash In Stall... and a few updates.

Ok, so I got tired (pretty quick) of reaching back behind the seat and turning on the inverter, then the amp, then the MP3 player... and went ahead with the in dash. It's not finished out yet, but a huge improvement to the old 10 pound head unit just flopping around in the dash. Having the volume right there on the dash is very handy, and I like the treb/bass adjusters too.

Labled and yanked all the old radio stuff out, left the power cords to use. Once I removed the bezel I had plenty of room to work with. I used a main frame platform (that will stay in the dash), and a carrier/prototype platform (that is just temporary and easy to slide in and out if needed)

Basically, I created the main platform out of the cheapest, thinest wood that lowes had (about 1/2" x 8" by 4') for $5. I made it out of wood because it's easier (for me) to work with, cheap, lightweight. Got some L brackets and wood screws and back to the house. I used one L bracket to mount on the fron left metal frame pillar, and the other two to hold the side board to the bottom board. So the main platform is just a bottom and the left side. You can see the small wood sliders/spacers that I put in. eventually, I would like to have it finished out nice with a wood faceplate, or a keylock cover. You can see that I used a money clip as a MP3 player (Sansa clip +) bracket. It is there so that the MP3 can clip to it and still remain by the radio. I would like to incorporate a small storage cubby hole to keep headphones/sd cards, ect. later on too if possible.

For wiring, I found a PS connector and wired to ground and +5amp fuse with key on (again, these wires were already ran, so why not use them).

Followups:
I'm wondering if I should try putting a 3Amp fuse on this as opposed to a 5 amp fuse?
I have just purchased a small fuseblock to go in the glovebox for amp/lights. Any tips on that setup?
My unit has the tone bypass, so that's one mod I don't have to do.
The blue light is kind of bright at night, any tips on diming it with a resistor?
Still wanting to do the fault LED light and the Toroids and maybe some caps.
How are you guys "attaching" these images? I have webspace, but I'm lazy & tired and don't want to load them over there to use here (as a URL)?

I will try to post pics soon. Thx!
Loving this little amp!
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Old 2nd January 2012, 11:28 AM   #1033
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by newAgeRoman View Post
Followups:
I'm wondering if I should try putting a 3Amp fuse on this as opposed to a 5 amp fuse?
I have just purchased a small fuseblock to go in the glovebox for amp/lights. Any tips on that setup?
My unit has the tone bypass, so that's one mod I don't have to do.
The blue light is kind of bright at night, any tips on diming it with a resistor?
Still wanting to do the fault LED light and the Toroids and maybe some caps.
How are you guys "attaching" these images? I have webspace, but I'm lazy & tired and don't want to load them over there to use here (as a URL)?

I will try to post pics soon. Thx!
Loving this little amp!
I wouldn't change the fuse, as is 20+20w (40w, and it's not 100% efficient, so will be more), and to get 40w at 12w you need 40/12 = 3.333Amps, so a 3Amp fuse will blow eventually...

You can dim the light with a greater value resistor (just follow the leds track, and you will see it), or simply slide a piece of paper between the led and the plastic cover and you will get a more diffuse and dimmer light.

You can attach directly to the forum the images, just use the Manage Attachments button.
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Old 3rd January 2012, 05:01 AM   #1034
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmed_cha_gr View Post
Well your board is a previous version than mine but easier to work with. The capacitors must be the ones in the yellow circle. Take them off and connect your input signal to the right pin from the upper side of the board. Directions are here ---> Lepai T-Amp with TA2020 .

I meant : Have a look not lokk ! hahaha
Thank you very much for your help...

I've already tried all the methods you mentioned earlier.

1. input audio signal to the two 2.2 uf caps as shown in the picture
(I've already remove pr-amp before this test). result- failed

Click the image to open in full size.

2. disconnect pin no 18 & disconnect 4 diodes as shown in the picture
result -failed

Click the image to open in full size.

what should i do now ? your help is highly appreciated.

Thanks

Last edited by Optimusone; 3rd January 2012 at 05:03 AM.
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Old 3rd January 2012, 03:34 PM   #1035
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Optimusone View Post
what should i do now ? your help is highly appreciated.

Thanks
I'm in the same situation.

If you have a multimeter, try to check the following pins FAULT (18), OVERLOADB(6), MUTE (11) and SLEEP (17). Only the OVERLOADB should have 5V, the others should be near 0V.

Also check that the voltages and grounds are ok, check the pins on the datasheet http://www.e-ele.net/DataSheet/TA2020.pdf

Btw on my amp, everything is correct but I have the OVERLOADB = 0V, so indicates that something is overloading the amp, but no sound output, the outputs have 6.8V. I have desoldered the chip, and checked the rest of the circuit, but everything seems to be ok so probably my chip is damaged... will try a new one when it arrives and comment results.
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Old 3rd January 2012, 04:04 PM   #1036
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Did you guys checked the power supply ? From my experience some power supplies rated 12V will refuse to feed the lytics while others very feather weight rated 10v just did the job. I had several 12v that did put my lepais on dimmind lights with the relay not turnning on and arjen ta2020 in overload state.

Good luck
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Old 3rd January 2012, 05:48 PM   #1037
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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Join Date: Dec 2011
I don't think that the PSU could be the cause... mine's was working, then after a mod died. The PSU is stable at 13.5v and can reach up to 3.7A without voltage drop.
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Old 4th January 2012, 09:40 AM   #1038
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Just checked all the connections...

These are the results..

fault pin 18 - 5v (already disconnected from rest of the circuit)

overload pin 6 - 0v

mute 11 - 0v

sleep 7 -0v

Any Idea about my next step? very confused at the moment .. Thanks
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Old 4th January 2012, 01:48 PM   #1039
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Thanks for the tips!

OK here's my pics (please refer to my previous post for descriptions on these):
IMG_0936.JPG

IMG_0937.JPG

IMG_0938.JPG

IMG_0939.JPG
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Old 4th January 2012, 03:04 PM   #1040
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Optimusone View Post
Just checked all the connections...

These are the results..

fault pin 18 - 5v (already disconnected from rest of the circuit)

overload pin 6 - 0v

mute 11 - 0v

sleep 7 -0v

Any Idea about my next step? very confused at the moment .. Thanks
Well, you have the chip in Fault mode, check if exist any shortcircuit (between the outputs), and also check voltage for the power input pins (25 should be +12v, and 2 should be +5v).
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