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Old 21st December 2011, 06:31 PM   #1011
Cpurdy is offline Cpurdy  United States
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Join Date: Dec 2011
While I'm not sure it was 8db, it was very noticeable.

I used a 10,000 uF cap...
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Old 21st December 2011, 09:59 PM   #1012
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Ok, I'll give it a shot. thanks for your help.
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Old 22nd December 2011, 09:33 AM   #1013
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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Join Date: Dec 2011
With the original power cap the amp can't handle low freqs at high volume, you can easily see the LEDs blinking because the amp run out of power.

I have also replaced that cap by adding another in parallel (6800uF + the 3300uF stock = 10100uF, also change the inductor that is in the power line with wire as it limits the current that comes in the amp) and now the amp bass is more deep as it can handle it without any voltage drop, but you should know that its only 20W+20W, it will start clipping if you demand too much power…

What others say that also helps to get better bass response is to change the inductors at speaker outputs.

Changing inductors is more expensive, but people reports that the amp improves dramatically. I'm really thinking about it, as the recommended ones are too expensive (the cheaper that I've found cost 9€, from helder hifi), and there are many others that should provide an improvement in sound quality, but don't know what will have better cost/performance ratio…
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Old 22nd December 2011, 12:31 PM   #1014
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Default have a look

I bought these : Inductor 10uH 10 uH +/- 10% 5 pcs | eBay
They did the job, very cheap & the difference was huge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Franfj View Post
With the original power cap the amp can't handle low freqs at high volume, you can easily see the LEDs blinking because the amp run out of power.

I have also replaced that cap by adding another in parallel (6800uF + the 3300uF stock = 10100uF, also change the inductor that is in the power line with wire as it limits the current that comes in the amp) and now the amp bass is more deep as it can handle it without any voltage drop, but you should know that its only 20W+20W, it will start clipping if you demand too much power…

What others say that also helps to get better bass response is to change the inductors at speaker outputs.

Changing inductors is more expensive, but people reports that the amp improves dramatically. I'm really thinking about it, as the recommended ones are too expensive (the cheaper that I've found cost 9€, from helder hifi), and there are many others that should provide an improvement in sound quality, but don't know what will have better cost/performance ratio…
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Old 22nd December 2011, 04:44 PM   #1015
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmed_cha_gr View Post
I bought these : Inductor 10uH 10 uH +/- 10% 5 pcs | eBay
They did the job, very cheap & the difference was huge.
Yes, that's what I'm talking about… but look at this post Lepai T-Amp with TA2020 it seems that not all the toroids are equal…

Has anyone tried with both types of toroids?
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Old 23rd December 2011, 02:42 AM   #1016
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Default car audio setup (no head unit) with power inverter

OK, so I'm jumping in here. Lepai (no PS) is on the way. I'm hoping its the latest version (Ordered from amazon, PE was backordered) I've read this thread over the past week from beginning to end and thought I was late to the party. sounds like I might be just in time for a SMT unit that hopefully has a few improvements. This is my firs post and first project like this in a while, but I have soldered quite a few bits together in the past.

So as the header suggests, I want to use this in the dash of my 70's bronco with no head unit and an MP3 to push some crappy old 6x9s (with mud and gear oil stains on the cones...) that are already ran to the rear. It is a classic so no DINN sockets, although the space it will go in looks just right for the size of the amp, I will have to fab up a mount.

I've read lots of posts about the clicking death and then oh yeah I did have it hooked up to the alternator of my cousins drag car, but it was a quick run or whatever... so I'll try not to ask the same old same old.

I have just installed this 750w high/low voltage/current/temp protected power inverter in the cab. I'm not an audiophile, just a nerd so I'm thinking that any old power supply(12 v) plugged into this will be OK. I do have a few questions about this though:
  1. If I find and use a 13w power supply plugged into the inverter, will I be limited to 12V or might it eek out more than 12v (in the case I need more volume/wattage later on, most likely 12v will do fine for me).
  2. What if I find a 9 or 10v PS? since the inverter is low voltage/current protected, would this work at all, or just poorly?
  3. What amperage should I look/test for? I think the supplied is 2amps, but some use up to 5 amps?
  4. I've read in this post about some PS that have adjustable voltage when you open the case. Schazzam! that's the one I want! How do I spot these? What to look for?
  5. Also, If I were to run power directly from the fusebox, what type of inline fuse would you suggest and would it be possible/recommended to put a 12V or 13v regulator to the case of the unit and have the out from that go to the on board power or a short power patch cable to the standard power jack on the back. This would be like a PS regulator piggy backed to the case of the unit?
  6. All these PS questions are because I don't want to fry this thing and seems quiet possible in car audio aps. But that's one of the main reasons I got and installed the power inverter.
One thing that I read in this thread which I found very interesting, but didn't seem to get much attention: The ability to use a patch input cable to bypass the op ams which would allow higher volume without distortion caused by the op am circuits. This seems MUCH easier than slicing leads, removing caps, and such, am I wrong here? In addition, it would keep the controls on the front usable if I decide to pull it for something else later on. I'll try to dig up the post # for that idea and ref it.

If I get it running/setup OK, I would like to do the basic cap mods listed here
Modding the Lepai T2020A+ - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video, and Electronics Customer Discussion Forum From Parts-Express.com
and put some toroids or similar in to push some better speakers later on. I also would like the fault wired to a LED on the faceplate and possibly route the op amp bypass jack on the faceplate.

So with that I must say thanks to all who have posted to this thread over the years and invite questions/comments.

Edit: Just found the links to the arjen helders MIII. I didn't see this option before. Although it cost more, it may be more suitable for my application (has AC/DC ready). But I'll not clutter this thread, just wanted an honorable mention.

Last edited by newAgeRoman; 23rd December 2011 at 03:07 AM. Reason: just found another suitable car audio option
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Old 26th December 2011, 11:29 AM   #1017
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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Join Date: Dec 2011
My TA2020 has probably died when tried to add overshoot protection diodes

Now all that I have is 6.8v on all outputs, MUTE is HIGH, and FAULT & OVERLOADB are LOW, I've seen another topic here with a user with the same problem.

Does anybody know if anything could be done to fix it?
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Old 26th December 2011, 02:05 PM   #1018
Franfj is offline Franfj  Spain
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I have tested again and now MUTE, FAULT and OVERLOADB are LOW...

Also have checked the sound input pins and they show 5V although nothing is connected there (I've desoldered them to be sure)...

All signs points to dead TA2020, I'll buy a new replacement chip.
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Old 26th December 2011, 02:47 PM   #1019
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Default go for it.

Be prepared for amazing results. Make sure you disconnect pin no 18 (leave it open). Inductor change will make the biggest improvement to this amp. Enjoy !

Quote:
Originally Posted by newAgeRoman View Post
OK, so I'm jumping in here. Lepai (no PS) is on the way. I'm hoping its the latest version (Ordered from amazon, PE was backordered) I've read this thread over the past week from beginning to end and thought I was late to the party. sounds like I might be just in time for a SMT unit that hopefully has a few improvements. This is my firs post and first project like this in a while, but I have soldered quite a few bits together in the past.

So as the header suggests, I want to use this in the dash of my 70's bronco with no head unit and an MP3 to push some crappy old 6x9s (with mud and gear oil stains on the cones...) that are already ran to the rear. It is a classic so no DINN sockets, although the space it will go in looks just right for the size of the amp, I will have to fab up a mount.

I've read lots of posts about the clicking death and then oh yeah I did have it hooked up to the alternator of my cousins drag car, but it was a quick run or whatever... so I'll try not to ask the same old same old.

I have just installed this 750w high/low voltage/current/temp protected power inverter in the cab. I'm not an audiophile, just a nerd so I'm thinking that any old power supply(12 v) plugged into this will be OK. I do have a few questions about this though:
  1. If I find and use a 13w power supply plugged into the inverter, will I be limited to 12V or might it eek out more than 12v (in the case I need more volume/wattage later on, most likely 12v will do fine for me).
  2. What if I find a 9 or 10v PS? since the inverter is low voltage/current protected, would this work at all, or just poorly?
  3. What amperage should I look/test for? I think the supplied is 2amps, but some use up to 5 amps?
  4. I've read in this post about some PS that have adjustable voltage when you open the case. Schazzam! that's the one I want! How do I spot these? What to look for?
  5. Also, If I were to run power directly from the fusebox, what type of inline fuse would you suggest and would it be possible/recommended to put a 12V or 13v regulator to the case of the unit and have the out from that go to the on board power or a short power patch cable to the standard power jack on the back. This would be like a PS regulator piggy backed to the case of the unit?
  6. All these PS questions are because I don't want to fry this thing and seems quiet possible in car audio aps. But that's one of the main reasons I got and installed the power inverter.
One thing that I read in this thread which I found very interesting, but didn't seem to get much attention: The ability to use a patch input cable to bypass the op ams which would allow higher volume without distortion caused by the op am circuits. This seems MUCH easier than slicing leads, removing caps, and such, am I wrong here? In addition, it would keep the controls on the front usable if I decide to pull it for something else later on. I'll try to dig up the post # for that idea and ref it.

If I get it running/setup OK, I would like to do the basic cap mods listed here
Modding the Lepai T2020A+ - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video, and Electronics Customer Discussion Forum From Parts-Express.com
and put some toroids or similar in to push some better speakers later on. I also would like the fault wired to a LED on the faceplate and possibly route the op amp bypass jack on the faceplate.

So with that I must say thanks to all who have posted to this thread over the years and invite questions/comments.

Edit: Just found the links to the arjen helders MIII. I didn't see this option before. Although it cost more, it may be more suitable for my application (has AC/DC ready). But I'll not clutter this thread, just wanted an honorable mention.
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Old 27th December 2011, 02:48 PM   #1020
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Optimusone View Post
This is what happened to me... there was a short circuit after the op-amp modification .. there after the amp stop responding ..While checking the amp IC using multi-meter there was another elctric shortage between ic pins..After all this drama, the blue LED started to dim ..After inspection we decided there is a electrical short inside the circuit.. (standby current is way over 1 AMP)..now waiting for new ta2020..

What do you think?? your ideas highly appreciated..
Recently I fixed new ta2020 chip board & it looks fine.. no dimming blue led this time.. But when i input the audio signal to it, nothing seems to be coming from amp audio out.. I'm really disappointed about this as i already ordered a extra IC and waited for so long to receive it..I really appreciate your help in this case..
What are the things to check ?
Thanks
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