Lepai T-Amp with TA2020

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What's the difference, sound quality-wise between this new TA2020(A+) model without modification and the previous Lepai TA2020 with the blue LED, also without modification?

I own the previous version and I've been really happy with it, but after two and a half years, it's starting to die. I get static if I touch the thing, and today, the volume knob fell off. I'm thinking about replacing it with the new version, but I want to make sure I'm not wasting money if it's not at least as good sounding as the previous generation was.

I'm not going to mod mine. And since I'm replacing my previous Lepai, I already have a power source for it.

How does the new one compare, sound quality wise, to the previous generation?
 
Received my TA2020(A+) from Parts Express a few days ago.

Recapped using Panasonic FM/FR for the power supply electrolytics and Elna Silmic II for most signal path electrolytics. Also replacing the output film caps with polypropylene caps.

I am not comfortable with removing the SMDs but I was thinking about replacing the stock 10uH inductors.

Has anyone tried this on the new model yet? I think it sounds better in tone bypass mode than with tone controls in circuit - things sound a bit muddy and veiled - thinking this may be the stock 1.75uF electrolytics I left in circuit - I was going to try a pair of Nichicon Muse ES Bipolars here, 2.2uF - or 1uF depending on what sounds best.

Anyone try that either?

Thanks!


I replaced the SMT input caps with MKP 2.2uf caps. Sounds beautiful...
I'm only using one channel though. I used two 10k resistors from the input side tied together to the cap tied to the right channel.

I have a question. The new amps appear to have 2 preamps. why?
 
Have a 2011 model but without tone switch (relay and one JRC op-amp)
My brother accidently switched a power supply so that ground was in middle and positive in ring. There was some smoke, then he was real sad. Does anybody know if it could be fixed?
With correct power supply I get the blue led light and I can just about hear the input music if I keep my ear very close to the board and all knobs are turned to max.
Any ideas?

I have been looking for this model for some time, where did you find yours?

Thanks
 
I am not comfortable with removing the SMDs but I was thinking about replacing the stock 10uH inductors.

Desoldering SMDs is actually way easier than desoldering through-hole!

The method I use is to add as much molten solder to the joints as they will bear. Place a pair of pliers or something that can lift the part on it. Then alternate the iron tip between the two joints until they pick up enough heat to be molten at the same time. The part falls off. With small parts you don't even need the pliers, the part will stick to the iron and you can wipe it off on the soldering station's sponge.

I haven't destroyed a part yet, using this method.

It doesn't really work for big chips, but that's not the case here anyway.

The trick is to add LOTS of solder. The increased mass retains more heat.

See these videos for more info:
Surface Mount Soldering Techniques
How to Desolder Electronic Parts
From here: Tangent Tutorials
 
Originally Posted by nige838
I have a question. The new amps appear to have 2 preamps. why?
I reasonably certain one pair of op amps act as a buffer for the tone circuit input. I'm not sure about the other two. I regret not finding out when I had mine opened up, but IMO tracing a SMD multilayer board is about as much fun as a toothache.
Originally Posted by kristleifur
alternate the iron tip between the two joints until they pick up enough heat to be molten at the same time. The part falls off.
+1 That is the trick. When it stays molten, the part will lift without taking pad with it.
 
I finished upgrading my Lepai today - at least until I find someone post a proven replacement for the stock inductors (and maybe the volume pot too).

My stock volume pot has a slight bit of imbalance - enough to notice.

I replaced the two 1.7uF bipolars in the tone cirucit with Nichicon Muse ES bipolars.

I also placed a .56uF film bypass cap across the 5600uF cap.

Listening to it now - I think it sounds pretty darn good.

I will open it back up if/when the time comes that I hear about people sucessfully upgrading the inductors or volume pot.

And maybe one day down the road I will get comfortable enough to replace the smd opamps.

By the way - to replace these smd input caps - how did you do it? Any pics? Are the replacement MKT caps smd also?

Thanks all
 
I brought the amp in to the office today and hooked it up to larger, more detailed speakers than I was using at home (JBL 4311 vs. Radio Shack Minimus 7) and I immediately notice the right channel is much louder than the left channel.

I can get them to sound balanced if I use the computer balance level to cut the right channel down to 75% power.

I assume this is due to the tracking being off on the stock volume pot.

Has anyone changed the volume pot to a better unit? I would love to know which model pot I should purchase.

Thanks much,
Rob
 
I've had one for a few weeks. It has decent sound, esp for the cost.

Sometimes I prefer the tone bypass, sometimes I need to boost the high freq. It really depends on the source. This is only a temp amp so I can live with that.

My biggest complaint is the thud it makes when being turned on/off. Any mods to address that? I have only scanned a few of the pages in this posting so forgive me if it was covered previously.

Thanks
 
I've had one for a few weeks. It has decent sound, esp for the cost.

Sometimes I prefer the tone bypass, sometimes I need to boost the high freq. It really depends on the source. This is only a temp amp so I can live with that.

My biggest complaint is the thud it makes when being turned on/off. Any mods to address that? I have only scanned a few of the pages in this posting so forgive me if it was covered previously.

Thanks

The newer ones have relay protection, so that doesn't happen. The Leapi TA2020(A+)
 
HI from Argentina and first, excuse my poor english...
I have a second edition lepai lp-2020(090210pcb) and I have the sure board with the ta2124 ic too...
well.. the stock lepai sound very good without mods better than my sure-tripath board, but... if You see the photo you will find a very extrange dateail in the inductors... one of them have the value .470 uh i don't have instrumental to measure inductances but both channels sounds very good anyone can explain that?
my main amps are el84 push pull and el84 single ended, my speakers full range fostex fe 206e and a pair of almost good ears (i think)
 

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Hello everyone I purchased one of these a few weeks ago and have the LP-2020A+
I love it and it would go perfect for my boombox build but 1 thing I am having issues with is the bass, well the lack of bass - I know it has kinds been discussed here but was wondering if anyone managed to find a solution where the over all still sounded good. Would better pot controls make a difference?

Also has anyone managed to bypass the tone, treble and bass controls wile still leaving the volume control working - is this even worth doing, as in does it make a difference in sound quality?

I am also considering adding a mic input which will be active at the same time the music is playing is it best to add something external or can it be done from within the amp?

I hope there not silly questions im new to the world of audio modding and would love to do some worth wile mods to this baby before I install her.

-Thanks
 
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Hello everyone I purchased one of these a few weeks ago and have the LP-2020A+
I love it and it would go perfect for my boombox build but 1 thing I am having issues with is the bass, well the lack of bass - I know it has kinds been discussed here but was wondering if anyone managed to find a solution where the over all still sounded good. Would better pot controls make a difference?

Also has anyone managed to bypass the tone, treble and bass controls wile still leaving the volume control working - is this even worth doing, as in does it make a difference in sound quality?

I am also considering adding a mic input which will be active at the same time the music is playing is it best to add something external or can it be done from within the amp?

I hope there not silly questions im new to the world of audio modding and would love to do some worth wile mods to this baby before I install her.

-Thanks

No silly questions. I've had 4 different models of the Lepai with TA2020s in them all. This newest one with the tone bypass on the front has problems. THe older lepais had good bass and could really belt it out. These new ones, however, have horrible bass and the whole tone control circuit sucks if you ask me. What's worse, they take it from the input, to the pot, THEN to the 2 opamps and finally to the TA2020. THis makes it much harder to bypass the opamps. If anybody has figured out a way to bypass the opamps, please let me know.
Sorry I couldn't help you more, just wanted to rant for a minute
 
I think I mentioned bypassing everything between the pot and TA2020 in a previous post. It involves inserting a jumper from the pot wiper arms to the capacitors on pins 10 and 13 of the TA2020. And cutting the traces where necessary.
It sure would be nice if someone could post a LP-2020A+ schematic.
 
I think I mentioned bypassing everything between the pot and TA2020 in a previous post. It involves inserting a jumper from the pot wiper arms to the capacitors on pins 10 and 13 of the TA2020. And cutting the traces where necessary.
It sure would be nice if someone could post a LP-2020A+ schematic.

Thanks for posting.
If you jump it, wouldn't you loose the tone controls?

Either way, how was the sound?

and

Just to clarify,are you talking about the smd Lepai 2020? (i.e. tone bypass model?)
 
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If you jump it, wouldn't you loose the tone controls?
Yes. My understanding was that is what was being questioned. Bypassing the op amps only may not be a good idea; I think they're being used to provide some gain and buffering for the passive tone circuit. I replaced the stock 4558s with a couple LM833s I had on hand. It wasn't without issues, but I'm running mine with a sub and can't complain (tone defeat set ON). Check out the past couple month's posts for more details.
This is the LP-2020A+ version with SMT parts that I have. The schematics posted already for earlier models are different, but how different I don't really know.
 
Yes. My understanding was that is what was being questioned. Bypassing the op amps only may not be a good idea; I think they're being used to provide some gain and buffering for the passive tone circuit. I replaced the stock 4558s with a couple LM833s I had on hand. It wasn't without issues, but I'm running mine with a sub and can't complain (tone defeat set ON). Check out the past couple month's posts for more details.
This is the LP-2020A+ version with SMT parts that I have. The schematics posted already for earlier models are different, but how different I don't really know.

Do you know if replacing the op amp will make the amp consume more power? I have ordered "2x NE 5532 P Dual Low-Noise Operational Amplifier DIP 8" and will be using my amp in a battery powered boom box so would like the amp to consume as low as battery as possible.

*Also i wanted to know if anyone knows of a place i can buy 6 x "Polypropylene Film Capacitors 0.47uF 450VDC 5%" from with low postage costs as the place i was looking are charging £12 for the postage alone! I want to replace some bits and have but dont want to spend a fortune on n amp like this
 
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Replacing the 4558s with 5532s will likely mean a little higher current consumption, but it really isn't enough to be concerned about. The difference will be only a small percentage of the total current draw from the battery.

I recieved myNE5532's but i got the wrong ones! Duh! Im such a noob and didnt take any notice of the "dip 8" written on the listing

can i still solder these to the board but using wires to connect each leg or is it just not worth it?
 
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