Parts that don't fit in the box...
Yes, it was a )tight( fit. Part of my reason for building the switching power supply filter spliced into the wire was there was no size limit. People build products. I buy them and make systems. The system does not have to be tidy or well organized, just effective, hopefully. Today's active filter, starting at the SPS:
835 ohm at 100MHz ferrite bead with three of the four holes used by the magnet wire in the + line.
The first Cowgirl is a 22uF 630V Obbligato PP/oil can cap.
The first Rodeo is a 15ohm 10W.
Second Cowboy is a 22kuF 16V Panasonic TS-HA.
Second Rodeo is parallel pair of 15ohm 10W.
Third Cowgirl is a 22KuF 16V, as above.
Third Rodeo is 0.5Ohm 10W.
Fourth Cowboy is 10uf 470V Obbligato, as above.
Fourth Rodeo is 0.5Ohm, as above.
4th C is parallel 2200uF & 3300uF 16V, as above, with 2.2uF 630 PP Solen bypass.
5th R is 0.5ohm 10W, as above.
6th C is 10KuF 60V with 0.1uF 630V PP bypass.
6th R is 8ohm 25W.
7th C is 10Kuf 60V TS-HA with bypass 6.8uF 630V Obbligato, as above.
both the (+) and (-) connections to the Lepy have 685ohm at 100MHz ferrite beads, as above.
I have named this filter The Dark Lord's Rat Race Choir.
It seems to work OK.
Happy Ears!
Al
Yes, it was a )tight( fit. Part of my reason for building the switching power supply filter spliced into the wire was there was no size limit. People build products. I buy them and make systems. The system does not have to be tidy or well organized, just effective, hopefully. Today's active filter, starting at the SPS:
835 ohm at 100MHz ferrite bead with three of the four holes used by the magnet wire in the + line.
The first Cowgirl is a 22uF 630V Obbligato PP/oil can cap.
The first Rodeo is a 15ohm 10W.
Second Cowboy is a 22kuF 16V Panasonic TS-HA.
Second Rodeo is parallel pair of 15ohm 10W.
Third Cowgirl is a 22KuF 16V, as above.
Third Rodeo is 0.5Ohm 10W.
Fourth Cowboy is 10uf 470V Obbligato, as above.
Fourth Rodeo is 0.5Ohm, as above.
4th C is parallel 2200uF & 3300uF 16V, as above, with 2.2uF 630 PP Solen bypass.
5th R is 0.5ohm 10W, as above.
6th C is 10KuF 60V with 0.1uF 630V PP bypass.
6th R is 8ohm 25W.
7th C is 10Kuf 60V TS-HA with bypass 6.8uF 630V Obbligato, as above.
both the (+) and (-) connections to the Lepy have 685ohm at 100MHz ferrite beads, as above.
I have named this filter The Dark Lord's Rat Race Choir.
It seems to work OK.
Happy Ears!
Al
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Hello,
Can someone post a link on amazon/ebay of a LCD power supply that I should get for my LP2020 amp? This is the only upgrade I'm capable of doing, never soldered anything like that.
Mine came with a crappy 2A PS and I'd like to put in a good one before it's permanently mounted. Thanks.
Can someone post a link on amazon/ebay of a LCD power supply that I should get for my LP2020 amp? This is the only upgrade I'm capable of doing, never soldered anything like that.
Mine came with a crappy 2A PS and I'd like to put in a good one before it's permanently mounted. Thanks.
I did some upgrades to several Lepai amps and used this PS. I have had both of them in daily use with these PS units since August of last year.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/28086963720...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1703wt_1234
This one has USB charger built in:
Universal Laptop Power Supply w/USB 4.2~24 VDC 70 Watts 120-500
Universal Laptop Power Supply w/USB 4.2~24 VDC 70 Watts 120-500
Bypassed the volume and tone controls. Removed c30, C31, C20, and C21. Used the cut at an angle lead of a 100K 0.5 W to push thru the + hole in the PCB where C20 & C21 were. Then threaded the resistors toward C30 & C31 pads on the end toward the RCA connections. Soldered leads end to end and bent the opposite other cap (2.2uF 400v PP) lead to make solid contact with the pad and put a drop of solder on. The parts barely fit, but, the sound is very clear. There is a big portion of the board now without input nor output. The tiny stuff is very slow going, but it sounds very much clearer. I control volume on the PC Windows Media Center
Also put a 1M resistor across the 3200uF PS cap to act as a bleeder when powered off.
I put it on the underside of the board. No parts on the underside simplifies mass production. It is not a sonic design imperative
Also put a 1M resistor across the 3200uF PS cap to act as a bleeder when powered off.
I put it on the underside of the board. No parts on the underside simplifies mass production. It is not a sonic design imperative
I've joined this forum because I wish to ask about the lepai haha! I just received mine from China, LEPY and has 130416PCB so i'd assume it to be 16th April 2013. It is the one that comes with ferrite's in heatshrinks. I have some basic soldering knowledge I do a lot of cable soldering.
I couldn't really find a good list of upgrades I could do. One I could find was to find a 4700uf/16v. I have no experience in electronics, I usually just follow guides. I would like to try maybe changing caps first since it seems to be the easiest to do as i've done it on my Bravo V2 PCB last time. Would there be a comprehensive list of parts that can be changed and the improvements that come along with it?
I couldn't really find a good list of upgrades I could do. One I could find was to find a 4700uf/16v. I have no experience in electronics, I usually just follow guides. I would like to try maybe changing caps first since it seems to be the easiest to do as i've done it on my Bravo V2 PCB last time. Would there be a comprehensive list of parts that can be changed and the improvements that come along with it?
What ferrite in heatsink? The heatsink is pretty much a stand alone.
Here is a list:
- Replace AC adapter to higher ampere rating. I recommend 5 ampere
- Add a ferrite ring to the power cord. I recommend TDK clip-on ferrite ring
- Replace reservoir capacitor to one with higher rating. I recommend either 4700uF or 5600uF due to height constrains. Try Panasonic FC or FR
- Replace all electrolytic capacitors to audio-grade ones. I recommend either Nichicon MUSE, Fine Gold or Elna Silmic 2
- Replace all 10uH inductors to higher current rating (stock inductors are 2.3A)
- Replace the two opamps (a bit tricky to desolder)
- Replace the stock volume pot to ALPS
- Bypass tone controls (I like the tones controls, so I kept them)
- Replace the RCA connectors
- Replace the spring-clip speaker connectors to multiway binding posts
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As in mine doesnt come with inductors for L1-L5, instead should be the ones that are ferrite's in heatSHRINKS. Also Nichicon MUSE I can't find a 100uf/16v closest I could find would be wither 100uf/ 16 or 50v. And this should be my reservoir cap http://my.element14.com/panasonic/eeufc1c472s/capacitor-radial-16v-4700uf/dp/1848437
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Also I can't find Nichicon MUSE for 470uf should I just use Panasonic FC or do you think it's worth it to go to ebay to buy them? I live in Malaysia so I usually find my parts from either Element14 or RS Malaysia. For Nichicon MUSE there is tonnes of different series, not sure which to get. If anyone knows someone which sells internationally please let me know currently looking at hndme.com
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thanks but it ships from US so its really expensive just to buy a few capacitors. I'm going to use Mouser which only costs me 6$. Instead of 40$
but thanks for trying to help. I'm still not sure how to choose inductors and pots yet, also have no idea what brand of binding posts or RCA connectors to get. Also the wires connecting the volume pot to the PCB and the ones from the power switch to the PCB, would there be any advantage to changing them?
Good choice!
After using the FR series, I kind of like it. Not as tall as FC, so it stands vertical nicely.
Malaysia Boleh! I am your neighbor in Singapore. Kawan... I can help you find Nichicon MUSE in Singapore. PM me. Personally, I am using Nichicon Fine Gold 470uF 16v.
I am using THESE.
Nope.
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Panasonic FC are power supply capacitors. Nichicon MUSE are audio caps. Of course you can use FC but it won't improve the sound.
Is there another cheaper alternative? RM10 each is a lot
i'm sure they're good but is they're something more bang for buck?MOQ of 10 units so costs more >.< I will check element14 for those and see
Well, you'll need shielded ones. Otherwise, just keep the stock inductors.
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