Hi Bill,
This is a very nice and clean DIY case and overall setup. You got my intrigue on this amp by Class D Audio, how does sound? enough bass? I am thinking this may be my next build. Where in the US are these folks located?
Also, why are there so many spare wires on that toroidal?
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I am using classD modules from Tom over a year now.At that time there weren't balanced modules .Exellent sound.You should try them yourself.
Depending from the ±V you can get various wattages.Very simple assembly.
Not very much cables.AC input for 110 or 230 v,±35v DC output.In classdaudio site you can see all the connections,no mistakes or misunderstandings.
Depending from the ±V you can get various wattages.Very simple assembly.
Not very much cables.AC input for 110 or 230 v,±35v DC output.In classdaudio site you can see all the connections,no mistakes or misunderstandings.
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Hi, whaleman,
Thanks for your interest. The SDS-258 has is exceptionally transparent and has a very clean, neutral sound with plenty of bass, IMO. It is the best sounding amp I've own. In particular, as a classical listener, I really appreciate the accurate instrument timbres.
There are a lot of wires on the transformer which is from Class D Audio. On the input side includes four wires necessary for either 120 or 240 volt AC; on the output side it includes the +-50 VDC set of taps, plus an addtional, unused set for some other +- voltage; (I don't what that voltage is offhand). Also, I didn't shorten the transformer leads as supplied hence they are good deal longer than they really need to be.
As mentioned, I have since added LEDs for the amp statuses, (On/Standby), and a Standby switch. The pictured switch is for complete power-down, i.e. it shuts of AC to the power supply.
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My Connexelectronic classT TA3020 amplifier cased-up, awaiting wiring stage!
Wow, it's been a while, but it's finally finished! I had to swap the toroid for a smaller one because even with my mods to the case, it still was too high!
So I got a 500VA one from RS Components in the UK. No chance of a shorted winding with this 60mm high one!
I added the Softstart circuit and the PSU from Connexelectronic and they both blew at switch-on! Cristi from Connexelectronic was kind and sent me some new (and higher-rated) thermistors for the softstart circuit and diodes (higher rated) for the PSU board.
I fixed the boards only a few months ago! I was quite busy with stuff before then!
With the new components on-board, I was keen to test them! I powered-up the amp and everything was fine and dandy -+55V and a lovely singing and dancing blue led from Connexelectronic's PSU board. My multimeter showed all was well 🙂
I now decided it was time to connect the TA3020v1 amp module (which I bought at the same time as the softstart and PSU boards ages ago!) It worked for about half an hour and sounded nice. Then all went tits-up - a screeching noise of varying frequency was observed from my speakers. Hmmm. At least my speakers were not damaged!
I sent the amp module back to connexelectronic for fixing and also ordered a new amp module (the v3b.) Upon return, the repaired amp module was still not working, but the newer v3b was working a treat.
Here are some pictures:
Now I have a working amp, I'm looking to find two mono class D +-38V amp modules to replace the ones in my previous build (15 years old but still working quite well!)
So how is the sound, compared to my previous amp?
It sounds equally impressive and more so! The lower mid range is not so "muddy" anymore and the lower bass frequencies are much improved.
Listening to Mahler's 5th symphony (a test for any audiophile's system!) I noticed a clear and precise rendering of all frequencies above, maybe, 1KHz. There was a confusion below this frequency that, strangely, seemed to end at maybe 100Hz. The low "low" frequencies were rendered immaculately - the best I've personally heard from any amp module! Maybe my floorstanders are at fault for the "muddiness" from 100Hz - 1KHz?
At the end of the day, if you're after some "budget" amp modules, then get to Connexelectronic's online store right now! But be prepared to have to fix any faulty PSU-stage boards yourself. Also, if your amp module is faulty, like my first one, you'll need to wait while Cristi fixes it. And that's if he does actually manage to fix it! (And be prepared to expect an overly defensive response from him if you find that it doesn't work once he has "fixed" it!)
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I can now add:
10. New toroidal transformer from RS Components, UK: $65.00
11. Connexelectronic v3b amplifier module: $124.00
Total cost: $698.50
Actually quite scary! Maybe I'd have done better if I just bought a £450 amp from Richer Sounds?!!!! Who knows ........ 😀
A prototype discrete class d pcb.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello everyone, first post.
Here's mine:
There are two of these mono amps using Hypex UcD700HG with HxR.
You can see some more pictures here, along with some other stuff I've cobbled together: DIY Audio Projects
Here's mine:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
There are two of these mono amps using Hypex UcD700HG with HxR.
You can see some more pictures here, along with some other stuff I've cobbled together: DIY Audio Projects
Some Helder TA2020 MKIII mods, input caps and buffer cap. These are great already, but this provides my ears a little more fidelity:
Attachments
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This is the photo gallery, please don't bring content that has to do with specifics about commercial services. Such things can be discussed in the vendor's forum. Photo gallery is many pics and some short descriptions. All else is OT.
Mushroom Cloud V2
Here's my diy class D amp. The hardware is finally finished. There's still a lot of programming to do.
internals of the amp:
- 6 channel 300Wrms/ch class d amp (iraudamp based)
- 2 pcm1802 adc's
- 2 src4392 asrc's
- 3 tas3103a dsp's
- 3 dsd1794a dac's
- PIC24HJ256GP206 µC
- pic18f14k22 (stand by µC)
Here's my diy class D amp. The hardware is finally finished. There's still a lot of programming to do.
internals of the amp:
- 6 channel 300Wrms/ch class d amp (iraudamp based)
- 2 pcm1802 adc's
- 2 src4392 asrc's
- 3 tas3103a dsp's
- 3 dsd1794a dac's
- PIC24HJ256GP206 µC
- pic18f14k22 (stand by µC)
Attachments
Saveltech very nice project and also complex one too. How come you didn't use SMPS psu or it was just too expensive?
Best Regards
Alex
Best Regards
Alex
Hi Alex,
This project started as a college task and I had limited time to complete this. I've considered using an SMPS psu, but develop one would take to much time. I also had not enough knowledge of this subject.
Maybe something for the future. (8 channel with smps psu? I don't know yet, it would be verry educational)
Regards
Sam
This project started as a college task and I had limited time to complete this. I've considered using an SMPS psu, but develop one would take to much time. I also had not enough knowledge of this subject.
Maybe something for the future. (8 channel with smps psu? I don't know yet, it would be verry educational)
Regards
Sam
Yes, like I mentioned above, 3 dsp's from texas instruments tas3101a (one for each 2 channels)🙂
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My 6 channel power amplifier, made with three sure tk2050, cabinet is a Galaxy.
Hope you like it.
Do you think that I should use one power supply for each board?
Thank you,
Francesco
Hope you like it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do you think that I should use one power supply for each board?
Thank you,
Francesco
It's normally recommended to have one supply per amplifier module, or one supply and a shared clock for the modules. Otherwise the three different clocks can be out of sync.