The "Through hole" mounting style is for the connector pins, meaning that they are designed to be installed in a printed circuit board(vs point to point solder lugs on the Parts express part). There's nothing stopping you from mounting the pot itself on a panel, and connecting wires to the pins though (and that is actually how I am doing it for some headphone amps myself). You can get all of the physical measurements of the part from the documents on the Mouser site (or at Alps themselves) to get the hole size for the panel(which I also needed to do..)
Thanks for the further info!
Rod
cheapo 8 channel L15D 4x 500va trafo noise floor on them is great plugged it into a 103db tweeter with no noise.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
nope it was going to be 12 channels but i couldn't figure out what to do with them all so i only did 8 so there's about 4 inches between the top / bottom channels
Nicely done... I'm slowly planning on building a 5 channel amp just like your setup. I see all the components, and I also noticed the speaker protection circuit. Does the L15D require a speaker protection circuit? I thought the IRAMP7S (IRS2092) has speaker protection built in?
Did you add any line-in attenuation (can't see) or is it straight through from your pre-amp/receiver?
protection
Yes. You need speaker protection circuit, because the mosfet failure cause dc error on output.
Yes. You need speaker protection circuit, because the mosfet failure cause dc error on output.
hdspeaker please post complete sentences or at least something related to the thread you are posting to.
Class D 2.0
Here are some (bad) images of my project: a Class D stereo amp using standrad parts. Sorry, I´m not a good photographer!!!
Observe the white caps oriented all in the same direction, and the 4 dark tanks to the right, they are the inductors of a 4 pole output filter, too close between them, and too high mutually coupled, but this is only a protoboard. I´ll place all in a new piece of board, and properly spaced.
Briefly I will post the schematic.
Here are some (bad) images of my project: a Class D stereo amp using standrad parts. Sorry, I´m not a good photographer!!!
Observe the white caps oriented all in the same direction, and the 4 dark tanks to the right, they are the inductors of a 4 pole output filter, too close between them, and too high mutually coupled, but this is only a protoboard. I´ll place all in a new piece of board, and properly spaced.
Briefly I will post the schematic.
Attachments
Last edited:
Hi all
This is my first post after reading quite a lot of very usefull information when putting together my first couple of amps.
This was my first attempt, a Yuanjing TA2020 modified with 2.2uf 250v Claritycap ESA input caps and cheap fleabay sourced toroids. I replaced the 0.22uf caps behind the inductors as a couple got damaged when I wasn't careful enough removing the original inductors, and I had these wima 0.22uf caps to hand. It is housed in an external light unit along with 4 Sound Reactive RGB LED light strips (60 LEDS in total). I'm very surprised at how good it sounds!
The board;
The housing;
It sounded so good I decided to see if buying what seeme to be a better board to start with would give better results so I ordered a Helder MK111. I found an old power supply in an aluminium chassis at a bootfair to house it in.
Finally the board arrived, even before hooking it up I changed the input caps for some 2.2uf Obbligato Gold Premium+ that I had to hand.
And with a lot of luck it fitted perfectly into the enclosure!
The verdict? Its definitely better than the modded Yuanjing, but not by as much as I had hoped. The YJ definitely seems to be louder, although the Helder is more refined. I am using my now old Mission 734's and am still amazed amps so small can produce such a great sound from them.
I have since relented, this was meant to be a 'serious' amp. but I've built in blue sound reactive leds, looks amazing at night!
Now for something more powerful....
So, thanks to all that contribute to this forum, you may not always get direct replies but the advice to be found is invaluable to a beginner like myself.
This is my first post after reading quite a lot of very usefull information when putting together my first couple of amps.
This was my first attempt, a Yuanjing TA2020 modified with 2.2uf 250v Claritycap ESA input caps and cheap fleabay sourced toroids. I replaced the 0.22uf caps behind the inductors as a couple got damaged when I wasn't careful enough removing the original inductors, and I had these wima 0.22uf caps to hand. It is housed in an external light unit along with 4 Sound Reactive RGB LED light strips (60 LEDS in total). I'm very surprised at how good it sounds!
The board;
The housing;
It sounded so good I decided to see if buying what seeme to be a better board to start with would give better results so I ordered a Helder MK111. I found an old power supply in an aluminium chassis at a bootfair to house it in.
Finally the board arrived, even before hooking it up I changed the input caps for some 2.2uf Obbligato Gold Premium+ that I had to hand.
And with a lot of luck it fitted perfectly into the enclosure!
The verdict? Its definitely better than the modded Yuanjing, but not by as much as I had hoped. The YJ definitely seems to be louder, although the Helder is more refined. I am using my now old Mission 734's and am still amazed amps so small can produce such a great sound from them.
I have since relented, this was meant to be a 'serious' amp. but I've built in blue sound reactive leds, looks amazing at night!
Now for something more powerful....
So, thanks to all that contribute to this forum, you may not always get direct replies but the advice to be found is invaluable to a beginner like myself.
I found knobs on ebay on 'diy_hifi_supply50' store and the PSE terminals from 'wonderco_buy' when they were available.
Knobs are still available from: Knob --CNC Solid Aluminum, Buff-cote | Diy HiFi Supply
For the speaker terminal maybe contact wonderco_buy through eBay if he still have some.
Knobs are still available from: Knob --CNC Solid Aluminum, Buff-cote | Diy HiFi Supply
For the speaker terminal maybe contact wonderco_buy through eBay if he still have some.
