I dunno, I haven't read too much about it, to be honest. In theory, if it's a lossless format that ships the bits over without changing them (or only changes them in such a way that the original bits can be perfectly reconstructed), then it should be just as good. And I suppose the datastream would likely need some kind of parity or other correctness-checking mechanism, as well as some buffering, to handle all the extra challenges that come with wireless signal transmission.
In a perfect environment, there should be no audible difference between differential and single-ended signaling. Such perfect environments rarely exist, though.
Differential signaling is technically superior, since it is far more resilient to common-mode noise, and can be helpful in eliminating ground loops. So the real question is, is this technical superiority necessary and noticeable in a home environment? That's a debate for which I don't want to take a side!That said, I've never actually sat down and tried to hear a difference between single-ended and differential interconnects. Though, informally, I've certainly never noticed an obvious difference. I'm inclined to suspect that, practically speaking, with reasonable quality cables and relatively short cable runs, single-ended is probably good enough for most home users. But at the same time, differential interconnects make me feel better, because I like overbuilt/over-engineered stuff.
I'm trying to find a covenient way to input analog signal (ex:turntable) and not cripple the signal in the digital conversion, then also BT, SPDIF (for Rpi or maby be a streamer too)... into the amp that you build, and all the sources to be volume controlled from this magical device, maby not breaking the bank in the process. It think people call it "unicorn"or a DieHard DIY session
I think you are essentially looking for what many people would call a preamp: something that allows you to select between multiple sources (digital/analog/wireless), and also control volume. If you're going to mix analog and digital, then volume control should be in the analog domain, so that your incoming analog signal doesn't go through an extra AD to DA step. In our living room, we have an old Emotiva XDA-1, which does all these things, except Bluetooth. They make standalone Bluetooth receivers, so I could add that if I needed it there. I'd be surprised if there didn't already exist an OTS preamp+dac with Bluetooth.
You could certainly DIY something like that, I'm sure if you look hard enough you'll find some folks who've done that here on diyAudio. Throw in a Raspberry Pi and you can have a full-fledged music server!
theoretically the LDAC remains the best but it is less used than the APTX / Aptx HD for example even if several chips natively support it ....
As strange as it sounds: there shouldn't be any difference between all these codecs from one device to another; by that I mean, if we compare the same codec on a device that supports it. But in fact, it is not! I tested the APTX from 4 different phones: LG V30, Xiaomi Redmi Note 6, Huawei P20, and a Samsung S4. The LG V30 is by far the best, the Audio difference between these phones is obvious! I conclude that the management of Codecs is also linked to the architecture of the device.
NB : Note that I use a double AK4497 DAC with a CSR8675 Chip as receiver + another AK4493 / QC3008 chip.
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This is the Class D Photo Gallery, try posting in the general class D forum.
Before doing so if you have a multimeter measure the secondary AC voltage, also more pics of the transformer would help, take a pic of all the wiring. Was this transformer previously powering an amp ?
The label shows 32V, it it’s 32V output you can easily make a linear power supply and use it with a nice TPA3255 or other.
BR
Eric
Before doing so if you have a multimeter measure the secondary AC voltage, also more pics of the transformer would help, take a pic of all the wiring. Was this transformer previously powering an amp ?
The label shows 32V, it it’s 32V output you can easily make a linear power supply and use it with a nice TPA3255 or other.
BR
Eric
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My new 2.1 Amp.
Later I will make better enclosure with built-il power supply.
But for testing it and play at my birthday party its enough^^
Later I will make better enclosure with built-il power supply.
But for testing it and play at my birthday party its enough^^
Attachments
These ones :
Nice for your holidays ) Where do expect to go Bro ?
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Nice for your holidays ) Where do expect to go Bro ?
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Very nice build.
Need one quick help on 3e audio boards. When the amp is powered on, do you hear any sort of hissing noise when you place your ears very close to the tweeters?
I've been experimenting with different class d boards like tpa 3116, 3118 (Allo Volt+ D), LJM L15D, TAS 5360. All of them generate some sort of hissing noise. They are not dead silent like other class a amps I've built so far (like NP AmpCamp, JLH 69 etc).
The hissing noise keeps bugging me.
So before wasting more money on class d, I need to be sure on the noise front.
Thanks,
Saikat
Saikat said:
Hummmm I built many Class D amplifiers. These ones are absolutely dead silence (I am using ribbon tweeter on my high ends floor speakers) :
- Double Mono Pascal Upro > dead silence
- Double Mono Hypex Ncore NC250MP + 500MP > dead silence
- NC502MP Hypex Ncore > dead silence
- TPA3251 with PFFB and based on 360 Customs design > dead silence (little pop when switching off)
- Aiyima TPA3251 with updated OPA1656 + Inductors update > dead silence
- Brzhifi TPA3255 + OPA165 x 4 update (tone control + amp) > dead silence
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Thanks a lot Danny.
Recently I've received a NC122MP board and a Chinese clone of ICEPower 125 ASX2. Both are yet to be tested.
After reading your comment, I'm getting enthusiastic again towards class d.
Regarding Aiyima 3251 upgrade - did you do it by yourself or the seller did it for you?
I will be waiting for feedback on 3e audio modules from other members as well. Reason - Hypex won't sell their modules to me as I am not an OEM. :-(
Last but not the least - I'm from India. Thanks for those Rafales (pun intended).
Thanks,
Saikat
No hiss or hum in the ones I have built either. Nc500, nc252, 3118, 3255, 8954.
But the 8954 has a funny problem. Theres a low motor boating noise when the onboard volume control is between about 9 o'clock and 12o clock positions. Any ideas on why? Here's what i bought : TDA8954 HiFi 210Wx2
But the 8954 has a funny problem. Theres a low motor boating noise when the onboard volume control is between about 9 o'clock and 12o clock positions. Any ideas on why? Here's what i bought : TDA8954 HiFi 210Wx2
I did the updates myself. checkout :
New Inductors MA5173-AE as per TI spec
+ OPA1656
PS: If you are looking for the best TPA32XX board, I will suggest you to get a 360 Customs oriented design or XRK Audio. They both perform very very well, they are among the best class D I listened to.
I compared it VS Hypex Ncore here : TPA3251d2
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Thanks for sharing.
Did you build those 3118/3255 from ground up or did you use any specific ready made modules for them?
Thanks,
Saikat
Thanks a lot for sharing your feedback.
Honestly, I do not have the skillsets to replace smd op-amps. So I have to stick to what manufacturers are offering.
Somehow, I was not able to locate the comparison post in that thread. Maybe I was not looking hard enough.
Thanks,
Saikat
