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Old 14th October 2006, 08:59 PM   #21
Xspunge is offline Xspunge  United States
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Join Date: Jul 2006
YOu'll like the new Amp 6 Basic. Its the easiest kit Jan has to work on, its a decent sized board for upgrades, and it doesn't have a whole lot of extraneous parts.

If you want to see what a finished version looks like you can take a look here.

The aluminum heatsink is not included in the kit, nor is the box, but everyone's taste in amp cases is different. It matches my sound system so that's why I chose it, plus the blue base sets it apart.
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Old 14th October 2006, 09:16 PM   #22
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Californie
Xspunge: Man oh man!!! That's about the coolest see through setup I've ever seen !

( For a grin, you might take a look here : ... guy hates plastic parts in his speaker boxes = )
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Old 15th October 2006, 08:48 PM   #23
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Location: Oakville, Canada

Thats a wonderful way to mount the Amp 3 Basic.

How is the on-off connected - are you using the sleep mode? And what does J6 do - I can't see any reference to it in the instructions.

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Old 16th October 2006, 12:55 AM   #24
Xspunge is offline Xspunge  United States
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Thanks you guys for the compliments on the casing. It took me a while to find a decent looking case. I tried making one out of stock sheets, but it was a little too time consuming... I found a decent sized box and went with it.

Woodmancy in the instructions, it is listed as J2 near the beginning, and the kit has the tiny black plastic jumper that you slide on the pins... it looks like one of the diodes. I didn't want to use that so I went with the switch, because it is really easy to lose that jumper cover, and besides if you have a case you have to constantly open and close it if you use it instead of a switch.

For the Amp6 Basic I don't believe there is an on/off switch or a provision for it on the board. The switch you see in the pic is for mute. Instead of using the jumper, I just soldered the wire to the pins and then to the switch. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which pin, and it doesn't matter how you wire them to the switch. It will work either way you solder the switch.

I think the regular Amp 6 has an on/off feature though.

The mute function basically shuts down the amp, but it is still on and will continue to draw nominal power from a battery as long as it is connected, you just won't hear anything. At least that is what Jan explained to me when I asked him about it.

I figured it was too complicated to figure out how and where I was going to put an on/off switch into the circuit. To turn it off, I switch the mute on, lower the volume on my MP3 player and then unplug the battery, but that's no big deal.
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Old 16th October 2006, 03:05 AM   #25
Xspunge is offline Xspunge  United States
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I forgot to answer your question about J6... its where you can hookup your battery as an alternative to the adapter/power supply input jack. Instead of being forced to use the ac adapter input jack you just solder a terminal or you can just solder wires for your battery. + is wired to the positive and the GND hole is for the negative. You can see in the pics I added a terminal there.
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Old 2nd November 2006, 07:51 PM   #26
Xspunge is offline Xspunge  United States
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Join Date: Jul 2006
I just finished building an Amp 32 from Here is the result with the amp in its own handy dandy case, in the same vein as my other amps and speakerbox.

Note the extremely small size of the amp, the penny in one of the pics is to show the actual size and scale of it!

I have placed it next to my Amp 6 Basic to show the larger size of that amp. Essentially they are the same amp, both with similar power outputs, thd characteristics, etc. The main differences are size, and the Amp 6 Basic is through hole component based and the Amp 32 is SMD/SMT based.
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