Crown Amplifier Kicked out by D-Amp!!!

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I can't share schematics...Korean company already make clone of my products, without schematics....I'm a bit scared of that, like a cat pushed in cold water! But if you make some search, you will find schematics of serie 1 model 1200 on this forum!

Fredos

By the way, if you dont use same material and manufacturer as me, you will not get same specs/quality....That was I saw with clone...I have 1 in shop...2 oz PCB when I use 4 oz (that's important specily for the 8000HVI and the 12K HVI), chiness power supply capacitor (already poped with only fews hours of bench test), smaller power resistor, smaller wiring, poor binding post, cheap fans, and unknow power device when I use APT, but they can put it out at 40% of my price, whith same power measurement...Short term, but they got my power...Anyways, whant to see if they can handle a rave at full power!
 
Fredos: " ... I have [a knock off unit] in shop...2 oz PCB when I use 4 oz (that's important specily for the 8000HVI and the 12K HVI) ... [cheap] power supply capacitor (already poped with only fews hours of bench test), smaller power resistor, smaller wiring, poor binding post, cheap fans, and unknown power device ... they can put it out at 40% of my [costs], with same power measurement Short term ... Anyway, want to see if they can handle a rave at full power! ..."

You should post this information on your web site, too. Web page of "cheap knock off" amps that failed ... /failed_imitators.html ...

No need to knock Crown anymore, when you have these poor imitations to kick around ... :smash:
 
6kW into 4 Ohms.
Bridged 12kW into 8hms...
Not so bad. Means unbridged already something like 155Vrms and roughly 40Arms. Your a devil !! :D

...looks like... first I have to satisfy my EGO with my own design and in future buy your stuff.... installing 100kW LT corrected subwoofer walls in my living room...

BTW: How do handle the speaker wiring, you are probably not playing around with bridged 310Vrms on open wires. Check for an official approval for your connectors or some envious competitors might try to sue you. Sad but true practice..... :dead:
 
Hello ChocoHolic

I use UL/CSA certified 10 gauge speaker binding post that do not accept fork with no user acces to metal. They are rated 500V RMS and flame resistant. Peak output voltage is +/-240V for the 12K, what is far beyond certification limit! And ther is no bridge switch on the amplifier,...No need I think for 12Kw into 8 ohms...You can bridge amplifier by simply use a reverse +/- pin in the XLR input plug...If you really whant to blow your speaker! Output of the amplifier is ground referenced, so their is no probleme to do it, but I really never try it....Fans are already at 90% speed to extend their life, but is easy to modified it for lower noise operation. The only thing is that thermal protection/limiter could be active some time to prevent overheating. But I dont think you can use it full power for long period inside house...I have break basement ciment wall with a crack of about 10 feet in the old shop with this with only 4 18'' speaker...I know that certification is important, I already kick out from Canada some disturbing competition with non compliant products! ;) Business is business!

Fredos
 
ChocoHolic: " ... installing 100kW LT corrected subwoofer walls in my living room... "

Come on, that's rediculous. That would make your sound pressure levels way above the threashold of pain. What are you building?? A torture chamber??

Chocolate may not be your only addiction ... consider several 12 step programs ...

(But let us all know how it works out ... Fredos: " ... Business is business! ..." ...and consider a military organization as your next customer.)

:whazzat:
 
Glad to hear that you have succesfully passed all the annoying path of certification. Congratulation !
...certification is always a world on its own...
Larger companies run entire departments for certification only.

UL/CSA certified 10 gauge speaker binding post:
How do they look, who is sellling that stuff?
May be some informative WEB page?

240V peak, yes that's 155Vrms (220Vp) + some headroom.
And you and handling these voltages and related currents with 500kHz ?!!!!.... and then still at that frequencies you can get a high efficieny?
You are quite some centuries ahead to my kiddi toys.... :wchair:
Eva seems to work on similar power ranges, but I have no idea witch switching frequency she is using.


Fast Eddy:
...just joking about my living room. I have just two small sub cubes 40cm x 40 cm x 34cm. .. each with one Sadhara driver (12 inch). Currently I am powering them with my old 8x150W monster, which I can parallel + bridge up to 1200W into 2 Ohms... But I want to integrate a class D amp into the cabinets....
 
" ... copy of certification obligation for class d product ..."

Building codes: Best to examine generally accepted electrical building practices and codes. Here in the states, any power lines, speaker runs, or other wires with more than 70.7 Volts (AC or DC) have to be inside of pipe (or inside of a cabinet) or well insulated to beyond 600 volts (ala Romex). (Notes: 70 VAC can shock anyone badly enough to stop the heart. 28 VDC can cause a nasty burn and I've got scares to prove it ... :bawling: )

FCC Rules: It would be a good idea to check out the ARRL Handbooks (Amateur Radio Relay League) for commonly accepted wiring practices that comply with FCC rules about spurious radiation: Example: FCC allows no more than 400 milliWatts (detectable at one meter distance) of radiated power at any and all frequencies (RF, LF, VLF, HF VHF, etc.), to leak outside of any power supply enclosure. (Interestingly, a well sealed enclosure works in both directions, preventing radio noise from leaking out and preventing outside audio and radio interference from leaking in = better rejection of noise = better "noise floor" = cleaner audio ...)

UL & CE Rules: Ignore the UL certification (in practice the certification can be "bought" for average of US$10,000) and go for the gold standard, the European CE complience ratings. Complience is a very good idea in any case, even if you don't bother getting CE certified (it too is expensive) === This reduces potential law suits, negates getting kicked out of town by local fire marshals, can pass muster with insurance companies, etc. As long as you stay "commercial grade" rather than "consumer grade", complience may mean simply making sure no one can stick fingers or screw drivers into the high voltage area. (Example: check out case building practices for outfits like Crown, et al. Note that some companies use "torex" headed screws to fasten the case together = keeps kids fingers outta there ...)

... I am not the authority, but there are authorities here on this Forum. Asking questions about specifics on another thread would be a good idea.

;) ... :smash:
 
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Joined 2001
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Fredos has made no effort to obtain an AVB thread to transfer this thread after saying that he would. The premise of this thread is to discuss his business.

Members are constantly complaining about the commercialization of the "regular" part of the forae, so we are forced to close this thread until fredos does as he said he would and gets the AVB thread.

When he does we can copy this entire thread to it and he can then discuss his amps as much as he wants. Even compare them to other amps. New posts notification will still appear on the home page and this thread can continue as he wishes.

We are trying to move all commercial interests to AVB and appreciate cooperation. This is not a punishment, we are just obligated to maintain a distinction between commercial and purely DIY topic posts.


:captain:

Variac
 
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