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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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I've searched but can't find one... is there a definitive list of improvements that can be made to the T-Amp, maybe even in order of how much they improve the output?
PS - also does anyone know of a decent PSU (12V, 2-3A regulated output) for the T-Amp available in the UK? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Midlands
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There is at least one whole thread of Sonic Impact modifications, and I would suggest that - since there is naturally no single solution in audio that will provide ultimate results for everyone - you trawl your way through the postings, as there are lots of different perspectives to consider...
Naturally, reading the wiki comments on t amp and Charlize mods may give further food for thought... Re the power supply, I obtained a 12V 5A regulated supply from an eBay.co.uk seller called digidave_uk, which I found delivered rather better results than a Mascot 13.8V 2A supply I also had available... It's the 12V 5A unit that is put into use, whether with the Sonic Impact or the Charlize... I wish you success in your endeavours in helping the amp to achieve some of the potential hinted at in it's standard and unmodified form... Keefe. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: S Yorkshire OK
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Quote:
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW UK
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Quote:
PSU It's quiet as a mouse, especially if you put in a stiffener cap between it and the T, as close as you can. Stiffener cap: BHC The biggest improvement by far is to replace the input caps with good quality 2.0uf or bigger caps. If you are a bit of a novice then do the stealth mod: films The films can be anything from the Maplins: Pretty good to these: very good After that it's time to change the onboard power cap (C10) to a larger low ESR: This sort of thing unless you can get any better/higher values to fit in there (you can always solder it underneath instead of trying to jam it inbetween the output inductors!) Order of things to do: 1. Input caps 2. On-board power cap with off-board stiffener After that you can start to split hairs but these will make 90% of the difference if not more. Re-boxing with nice cables and connectors is always a pre-requisit!!! Now go search the vast list of threads on how to do it! Best of luck and happy modding Lee |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Berlin
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First on my list would be a change of the input caps, i am thinking about the value (around 2.2uF), i am not going to comment on the type of the cap, since this is a bit overrated imho, but it seems there are other opinions also
. Good luck and have fun with the little amp. Nils |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Hmmm.....
My definative list, without the technical details, might go like this: In order of importance. 1) Better Power Supply 2) Heatsink. 3) Better, larger input caps 4) Better, larger C10 cap, 5) Upgrade connectors and case 6) Upgrade Pot 7) Add more offboard capacitance. (Stiffner cap). After that. it's time for a better T-Amp!
__________________
Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
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1) Start with a better amp to begin with. If you don't know what options are out there search this forum.
__________________
Brian |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Berlin
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I would say it is an excellent starting point regarding cost/outcome. You can always progress afterwards and invest more if you like what you do...
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have both the T amp and Super T amp. Personally, I wouldn't bother with modding the base model, just spend the extra on the Super T. It's in another league especially wrt bass response. But that's me.
The only mod I've done is to supply my amp's power from a 12V car battery -- this worked out really well and is my permanent solution. It cut noise down and improved the sound noticeably. Ymmv. I also briefly ran an active preamp and bypassed the Super T's pot by running it wide open. I believe that is very worthwhile to do. This was a budget high end pre (Hafler 101) and it added a lot of dimension and color. I'm building a good tube linestage now (Aikido) to run with my T. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Hi I am a total newbie here and I wanted to use this Amp for my computer with minimal mods ( to Start)..... Heres is what I ran into.....I bought a Universal 12 V adapter seems to work well.... then I used some old Rca Cables that were cut and fed them into the Speaker connectors on the back then adapted them to 1/8 inch male connector and plugged them into my Cambridge Soundworks Computer Speakers....
I connected my ipod and the sound is INCREDIBLE..... My main goal for this amp was to use between my computer and my Speakers and also split or connect them to headphones.....( headphone amp!) Well When I attempt to connect the computer ( I tried 2 of them... a PC and A mac) I get a Ticking... Feedbacky sound.....am I doing something wrong here? shouldn't it not matter that the speakers are powered? IS the solution to by-pass the powered Subwoofer buy splitting the computer output.... one straight to Sub then the other to the T-amp..then connecting the to the Small speakers which I would disconnect from the powered Sub? I have seen Computer setups done with this Amp..but they aren't using Powered ones? How can I solve this? becuase my next step was to put this amp between my Computer and my Stereo..is this just wrong? due to power levels?..is the ipod that much weaker in signal or Safer? Thanx for any help and be nice I am a geek but this is all new territory for me 8 )
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