'nother noob Charlize question

[johnthedoctor]

Originally posted by McRib

I'm starting to get cold feet though. I'm worried that if I get the Charlize, it's going to suck me into this time consuming world of DIY! I've started looking at the full range driver speakers and the DIY horn boxes. Now 'm getting really worried. I think I should just be happy with my Super T-Amp and be done with it!

[theAnonymous1]

McRib, I'm really liking the dell monitor supply I got off ebay. I was really surprised how well regulated it is. I just ordered 2 more of them.

I'm offering the one I have now to go along with a modded SI I put in the trading post.

FS: Worlds smallest Sonic Impact mod

[McRib]

Tripath07,

The chip in the LR552 is the IRF530N from International Rectifier. No idea who they are. Here is the thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=576479
As far as the sound goes. I only use the LR552 in two modes. Direct and Stereo Mode.
I felt it was very crisp and detailed sounding. Everything seemed tighter. This is compared to an old Rotel integrated amp. Not sure if it really was better because it was new and everything new seems like it should be better. When I build a home theater, I think I may get the Panasonic XR57. Seems like a good buy.

Regarding my Super T-Amp. I don't own the original T-Amp so I can't really compare. But compared to the Onkyo, the sound seems warmer. The edges are more rounded.

What I don't like about these low power amps is you are so limited by what kind of speakers you can use. I hate that actually and find it very frustrating.

[Tripath07]

McRib,

Thanks for the review, I'm glad to hear that you like the sound of the Super T-amp better then the Onkyo. I am looking forward to getting my Charlize. I have heard many good things about the TA2020 Chip!

The 12v SLA battery sounds great, the bass is deeper from the battery than the 2A smps from SI. The battery is better, although the SI power supply gives move positive detail in the high end.

[Tripath07]

theAnonymous1,

I am interested in hearing the details on how the dell power supply sounded. You said you liked it. Did the higher 14v give you more bass? Was it quiet, ect. Also I had heard that at 14v it would fry the T-Amp? I would consider buying one if it won't fry my T-Amp, also can you give a link to purchase it.

Thanks in advance.

Here is a link to another one I heard was good. But I don't think the plug-in is the right size, I think someone said it fit a Europe model T-Amp? What do you think?

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...R_SUPPLY_.html

[theAnonymous1]

I am interested in hearing the details on how the dell power supply sounded. You said you liked it. Did the higher 14v give you more bass? Was it quiet, ect. Also I had heard that at 14v it would fry the T-Amp? I would consider buying one if it won't fry my T-Amp, also can you give a link to purchase it.

The DELL supply provides all the juice the t-amp needs and doesn't introduce any noise into the system.

It has just as much bass as my more powerfull AMP1-B's at the same volume level.

I was playing a 4ohm load well into clipping at the tightly regulated 14v and my amp didn't fry, so 14v is completely safe.

Here is the link......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1

It says "buy it now" for $12, but if you send him a best offer for $9 he should accept it, he has for me twice now. The auction says the supplies are used but the one I received looked like it was never used.

If you do get the supply and notice a hum when using it, break off the ground prong from the IEC cord your using. The supplies negative is coupled to the AC ground and can cause a ground loop issue depending on your setup.

One more thing about that supply, the plug is not the 2.5mm barrel plug the SI takes. It is very easy to replace if you own a solder iron. Just take an old wall-wart style adapter I'm sure you have laying around with a 2.5mm plug that fits the SI, even if its not the right voltage, and cut the plug off. Take a sharp razor and cut off the plastic that is molded around the plug and desolder the wires. Now cut the plug off the DELL supply and solder on the new plug, cover with some heat shrink tubing, and your all done. I can show you a pic of what I'm talking about if you need a visual.

[Tripath07]

theAnonymous1,

Thanks for the link, and info! It sounds like you may have found an excellent sounding power supply. I will try it. I also may try the Samsung power supply I posted the link for, and replace the plug like you suggested.

Thanks again.

[theAnonymous1]

Well, I now own 6 of those "DELL LCD" power supplies. I couldn't resist buying more.

I took one apart so it can fit it inside a different chassis and so I could look at its inards. It uses a TOP247Y.

Here is the IC's home page.

http://www.powerint.com/topgxproduct.htm

Here is a link to the specs and schematic of a similar supply to the dell.

http://www.powerint.com/PDFFiles/di21.pdf

It pleased me to see "Audio Amplifiers" at the bottom of the "Applications" list on the home page.

[Tripath07]

Lostcause,

I have been thinking about your post about the Boomtube EX.

2 x TA2024......and a sod to modify!..dont bother cracking her open!

I would like to disconnect the subs to get true stereo out to my full size speakers I use with the Boomtube. It seems like I am not getting full bass into my speakers, probably due to a crossover for the boomtube subs. Is there a way to bypass the subs to get true stereo sound?

Thanks for the help!

Tripath07

[Lostcause]

Originally posted by Tripath07
Lostcause,

I have been thinking about your post about the Boomtube EX.



I would like to disconnect the subs to get true stereo out to my full size speakers I use with the Boomtube. It seems like I am not getting full bass into my speakers, probably due to a crossover for the boomtube subs. Is there a way to bypass the subs to get true stereo sound?

Thanks for the help!

Tripath07

Hi, from what I could tell the problem is with the tiny input caps on the satelite amp, they are a deliberately low rating to roll off the base.
The thing appears to be two seperate amps (the input signal is split) this leaves the base amp to look after the sub....but this has unusual output filtering that obviously reduces the mid/upper response.
Like I said....dont bother...it's all crammed into a very small PCB that must suffer from cross-talk and all sorts of power supply issues.
It's a pretty decent portable amp though for when you are on holiday.....but you do get you're bags checked when they see a cylindrical electronic device in your hand baggage!.