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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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I have just made a switch mode power supply 12v 3A. I got the board off e-bay for £4.75p. If you can use a multimeter then it is very easy to out together your own. This one accepted any mains voltage between 115v and 250v. I have added some smooting caps (6,800 x2 in parallel) and it sounds good.. Like the best of batteries and regulated power supply combined. No noise either.
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NW UK
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Quote:
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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Artesyn NFS40-7612. He had 4 of them. They are still being offered for sale.
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: S Yorkshire OK
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Quote:
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#15 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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In the USA, have a look at surplus electronic resellers. You should be able to find a SMPS fo under $10, easy. Get 12V. At least 2 amps. They can be very quiet if you add a cap or 2.
As for heat sinks, just get one from "WLUK" on ebay. It's a RAMDAC sink.
__________________
Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Quote:
As for the SMPS, I'd really like to use what I already have as well, which is a PC power supply. I don't know how many amps they put out but according to some who have modified a PC PSU to work with their chip amps, they can sound really good with the SI amp. With my limited electrical background, I'm currently trying to figure out how to modify one of these things to work with the Sonic Impact.... |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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I have the cheapest miracle cure for your heatsink adherence problems. JB Weld. Its a metal filled 2 part epoxy that can be found at almost any auto parts store. I have used it countless times for heatsinks. It has fairly good thermal properties and can handle up to around 500 degrees Fahrenheit.
They make a quick set version but I have personally never used it. The regular stuff takes a few hours to setup all the way. If you turned the amp on while it was setting the heat from the chip will speed things up a bit. I STRONGLY recommend against super glue. It melts rather easily. The little heatsinks "WLUK" sells on ebay are great, but the adhesive tape deosn't stick to well sometimes. I would recommend removing the tape and using JB Weld instead. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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The WLUK heat sinks come with "Frag Tape" but theAnonymous1 is correct, it doesn't stick very well. Press hard when you put it on. Also, clean the chip before you stick it. The JB Weld solution I have not tried, but it sounds like "cool" idea.
__________________
Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
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Whoah. Don't use hot glue or super-glue.
Use what computer modders use, a specially designed thermal adhesive. They're glue with metal particles in them so that they transfer heat better between your sink s and chips. Any decent computer store should be able to sell you something. http://www.newegg.com/ProductSort/Su...SubCategory=85 Also, there is a wealth of information out on the web about how to properly apply this stuff. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
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yup.. thermal epoxy, arctic silver makes a nice one, personally i mix a little extra arctic silver thermal paste into it incase i ever want to remove the heatsink.. it is rather permanent otherwise, but if you mix a little arctic silver thermal paste in it makes it a little softer.. works really well imo...
Owen |
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