Hi Niico,
Either of those Solen caps will work. The MKP type will cost a lot less and be easier to find.
Have you guys read the forums over on the 41hz.com site? I think there is mention of the fuse size over there. It seems that Jan forgot to change his testing fuse size when he wrote the AMP6 documentation.
200mA works well for AMP3, but AMP6 has such big cap that it blows anything less than about 2 amps when it charges up. I use a 3A fuse, no problems. You might be able to use a 500mA slow fuse for testing, I have not tried it.
Putting the fuse just before the rectifier bridge is the best place for it.
Either of those Solen caps will work. The MKP type will cost a lot less and be easier to find.
Have you guys read the forums over on the 41hz.com site? I think there is mention of the fuse size over there. It seems that Jan forgot to change his testing fuse size when he wrote the AMP6 documentation.
200mA works well for AMP3, but AMP6 has such big cap that it blows anything less than about 2 amps when it charges up. I use a 3A fuse, no problems. You might be able to use a 500mA slow fuse for testing, I have not tried it.
Putting the fuse just before the rectifier bridge is the best place for it.
Yes Pano, you must be right.
But I don't understand why in my Amp, the inrush current is so high that the 2A slo blow fuse blows after 2 or 3 switch to on.
Do you think it may be the stiffener cap that is doing this? When switching on, I "charge" :
15000+1800+10000+some small values = 27000µF but I don't know what energy it represents.
Everytime I switch on, I can see a spark inside the fuse, which is fatal after 2 or 3 times.
Pano, do you have the same thing in your AMP6. I know you too have a 10000µF stiffener cap?
Last question, about the Solen caps: do they make the treble less "tiring"? After listening the amp for 2 hours yesterday (at an higher volume that the first time (which was at 1:00AM...)), I find that the trebles may be maybe just a little (but a just little!) tiring and I wonder if the input caps can make it a little "smoother", less bright, without loosing the details (which is what I like a lot in this Amp).
But I don't understand why in my Amp, the inrush current is so high that the 2A slo blow fuse blows after 2 or 3 switch to on.
Do you think it may be the stiffener cap that is doing this? When switching on, I "charge" :
15000+1800+10000+some small values = 27000µF but I don't know what energy it represents.
Everytime I switch on, I can see a spark inside the fuse, which is fatal after 2 or 3 times.
Pano, do you have the same thing in your AMP6. I know you too have a 10000µF stiffener cap?
Last question, about the Solen caps: do they make the treble less "tiring"? After listening the amp for 2 hours yesterday (at an higher volume that the first time (which was at 1:00AM...)), I find that the trebles may be maybe just a little (but a just little!) tiring and I wonder if the input caps can make it a little "smoother", less bright, without loosing the details (which is what I like a lot in this Amp).
Salut Niiico,
I don't think that it is the stiffner cap that is causing the big inrush current because it is behind the regulator. You do have it past the regualtor, right? It will add a little to the inrush, but not much.
No, it's that 10000uF cap after the rectifier bridge that really hurts. A 2 amp fuse does not work for me. And you have a nice big transformer that can supply lots of current - that is also putting a stress on your poor little fuse.
You should have a 3A or even 5A fuse. 2 amps is too small.
As for the highs (aigu) being a little harsh, yes, you can cure that with a good input cap. If you want really nice smooth sound, low distortion, find a Sic-Safco (made in France) oil cap. Or buy one of the very nice new Obbligato paper in oil caps form Hong Kong. Your ears will thank you for it.
The T-amps can become harsh is you drive them into clipping. Unlike a tube amp, clipping on the T-Amps sounds very bad. You won't notice a little bit of clipping, but too much will hurt your ears.
I don't think that it is the stiffner cap that is causing the big inrush current because it is behind the regulator. You do have it past the regualtor, right? It will add a little to the inrush, but not much.
No, it's that 10000uF cap after the rectifier bridge that really hurts. A 2 amp fuse does not work for me. And you have a nice big transformer that can supply lots of current - that is also putting a stress on your poor little fuse.
You should have a 3A or even 5A fuse. 2 amps is too small.
As for the highs (aigu) being a little harsh, yes, you can cure that with a good input cap. If you want really nice smooth sound, low distortion, find a Sic-Safco (made in France) oil cap. Or buy one of the very nice new Obbligato paper in oil caps form Hong Kong. Your ears will thank you for it.
The T-amps can become harsh is you drive them into clipping. Unlike a tube amp, clipping on the T-Amps sounds very bad. You won't notice a little bit of clipping, but too much will hurt your ears.
The Solen caps are made by SCR in France.
And my opinion is that the Solen seems to be not much different from the SCR we find here...
I have some SCR caps in my speaker filters, so I know it's not too bad in the "highs" (thank you Pano for correcting my bad english
But I know people who find them awfull... As always said, YMMV (thanks Davet for your opinion)
I think I will have to try different brands to let my ears judge what is best.
And my opinion is that the Solen seems to be not much different from the SCR we find here...
I have some SCR caps in my speaker filters, so I know it's not too bad in the "highs" (thank you Pano for correcting my bad english
But I know people who find them awfull... As always said, YMMV (thanks Davet for your opinion)I think I will have to try different brands to let my ears judge what is best.
The Solen caps are nice. For me, I think the Janzten caps from Danmark are a little better - not has harsh.
There are a number of posts on this forum where I and others discuss input coupling caps for the T-amps.
My favorites are t he Obbligoto caps from Hong Kong. Both types are good, and very similar. Good price, too! But very, very BIG.
Caps that also sound nice:
AudioCap Theta
Auricap
Jantzen
Caps that are "OK"
Panasonic film
Sonicaps (maybe)
I don't care too much for Blackgate, but they are better than stock electrolytics.
"Treble" is just fine English. In fact, I thik it's a better term than "highs". But it seems that audio geeks don't use it much. Maybe it doesn't sound technical enough.
There are a number of posts on this forum where I and others discuss input coupling caps for the T-amps.
My favorites are t he Obbligoto caps from Hong Kong. Both types are good, and very similar. Good price, too! But very, very BIG.
Caps that also sound nice:
AudioCap Theta
Auricap
Jantzen
Caps that are "OK"
Panasonic film
Sonicaps (maybe)
I don't care too much for Blackgate, but they are better than stock electrolytics.
niiico said:(thank you Pano for correcting my bad english
"Treble" is just fine English. In fact, I thik it's a better term than "highs". But it seems that audio geeks don't use it much. Maybe it doesn't sound technical enough.
I use a horzontal capacitor clip made by Mallory.
In the USA it can be found at www.mouser.com Part 539-TH25. If can see it at the bottom of this Mouser PDF catalog page. It is clip "C".
You should be able to find something like it in Europe.
The Mallory clip is a little too large for the Obbligato, but once you tighten it down, the clip pulls tighter. If you are really clever (like me) you can choose just the right length screw to come up from the bottom of the clip so that the ssrew end will push into the copper case and ground it.
In the USA it can be found at www.mouser.com Part 539-TH25. If can see it at the bottom of this Mouser PDF catalog page. It is clip "C".
You should be able to find something like it in Europe.
The Mallory clip is a little too large for the Obbligato, but once you tighten it down, the clip pulls tighter. If you are really clever (like me) you can choose just the right length screw to come up from the bottom of the clip so that the ssrew end will push into the copper case and ground it.
Hello all,
I've read this thread (and many others) with great interest
since I too am a complete newbie about to embark on
this adventure.
Actually I've purchased two kits. I plan to build one stock,
with the other for experimentation.
I'm thinking of order some Obbligato caps from diyhifisupply.
Has anybody had any problems with their shipping? (I'm
only asking because I read in another thread that someone
had a major delay in getting some parts.)
Cheers,
Dennis
I've read this thread (and many others) with great interest
since I too am a complete newbie about to embark on
this adventure.
Actually I've purchased two kits. I plan to build one stock,
with the other for experimentation.
I'm thinking of order some Obbligato caps from diyhifisupply.
Has anybody had any problems with their shipping? (I'm
only asking because I read in another thread that someone
had a major delay in getting some parts.)
Cheers,
Dennis
kristleifur said:What I mean:
Wall -> Fuse -> Toroid -> Amp6board
Edit:
Wait, I thought some more about your answer and you probably understood me the first time
Is there a volume control?, using it as integrated amp?
what is needed?, how is the potentiometer installed?
gychang
Re: It works!
Niiico: that's impressive. I like to do the same, since I have a minimal soldering experience....
Do you know if a on/off and volume control can be added (i.e. integrated amp)?
I am very interested in building this.
gychang
niiico said:Hello,
my AMP6 is now functionnaly finished (I mean... it has no box today but it works
Let me tell you...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But I did it. I connected also some temporary wires to test it for the first time...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hurra! It plays music!
You can't imagine how happy I was to make this work at the first attempt!
Niiico: that's impressive. I like to do the same, since I have a minimal soldering experience....
Do you know if a on/off and volume control can be added (i.e. integrated amp)?
I am very interested in building this.
gychang
Hi Gychang,
This amp is not too difficult to build. But if ou have no skill at soldering, it may be a challenge ;-)
It took me along time to obtain a good result, but it worth it.
Here is one more recent picture of the amp in a temporary box (you can click on it):
TThe on/off is already present and for the volume pot, it is very easy to add it.
I may sell it (without the box) in a near future...
This amp is not too difficult to build. But if ou have no skill at soldering, it may be a challenge ;-)
It took me along time to obtain a good result, but it worth it.
Here is one more recent picture of the amp in a temporary box (you can click on it):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
TThe on/off is already present and for the volume pot, it is very easy to add it.
I may sell it (without the box
) in a near future...
Another succesful Amp6
To help future fellow builders of this nice amp, I have three comments on the building procedure, two are mentioned before but are worthy of some extra attention.
1. The led signal Mosfets must be mounted 180 degrees turned to function: this means the flat side should face the big cap.
2. The 200mA testing fuse is too weak for the current inrush and will blow each time you power up. Use a 2A fuse or more.
3. I noticed clicking noises and distorted music whenever I turned up the volume a little bit. Turned out to be one or more pins from the Tripath IC were not soldered tightly enough. Some resoldering cured this problem. Since it is relatively crowded on the underside of the PCB pay some attention to this.
Now that is playing music, I agree with most builders that it is superior to the Sonic T-amp it replaced. This is really an excellent amp for a very decent price. You will have to build it yourself though. Probably the Basic version makes it an even more easy way into high-end DIY.
To help future fellow builders of this nice amp, I have three comments on the building procedure, two are mentioned before but are worthy of some extra attention.
1. The led signal Mosfets must be mounted 180 degrees turned to function: this means the flat side should face the big cap.
2. The 200mA testing fuse is too weak for the current inrush and will blow each time you power up. Use a 2A fuse or more.
3. I noticed clicking noises and distorted music whenever I turned up the volume a little bit. Turned out to be one or more pins from the Tripath IC were not soldered tightly enough. Some resoldering cured this problem. Since it is relatively crowded on the underside of the PCB pay some attention to this.
Now that is playing music, I agree with most builders that it is superior to the Sonic T-amp it replaced. This is really an excellent amp for a very decent price. You will have to build it yourself though. Probably the Basic version makes it an even more easy way into high-end DIY.
niiico said:
Niico is right. I have posted a build order several times, and emailed it to a number of people. Below you will find it in PDF format.
Basically it is just shortest to tallest, grouped by location on the board. A few small items are saved for later as they go with bigger parts, like the amp chip.
The bag number for each part is also given, that should make finding them much quicker.
This build list should make your build faster and easier. I hope you enjoy it! Please let me know if you find errors or omissions.
NOTE: This is for the AMP6 - not AMP6 Basic. Many of these parts are not in the AMP6 Basic.
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