Sorry Panomaniac but I also would like to take advantage of your immensive knowledge 
I am half way through building the Amp6 and thought about using some Solen MKP fastcap 3.3uF (the same kind that I used with your T-amp stealth-mod with great result) instead of the supplied input caps.
Do you simply put these larger caps in place of the smaller original ones so that the input first passes through the input EMI filter (C23 and 24)
or is it possible to place the Solen caps before the EMI filter, directly connected to the input (like the stealth-mod)
Thanks alot for any help here
berthej
I am half way through building the Amp6 and thought about using some Solen MKP fastcap 3.3uF (the same kind that I used with your T-amp stealth-mod with great result) instead of the supplied input caps.
Do you simply put these larger caps in place of the smaller original ones so that the input first passes through the input EMI filter (C23 and 24)
or is it possible to place the Solen caps before the EMI filter, directly connected to the input (like the stealth-mod)
Thanks alot for any help here
berthej
Hi berthej -
I had to scratch my head and think for a minute.
But then I thought "oh yeah!". The new caps go before the little EMI filter caps. And that's probably the best place.
Here is what I do.
Solder a jumper (small bit of wire) in place of the stock input caps. This closes the circuit at the point were the input caps normally live. Then just solder the new input caps to the holes were the input wires normally come in. So now the input caps are "in the input wire."
As you said, just like the sleath mod. Works great!
I had to scratch my head and think for a minute.
But then I thought "oh yeah!". The new caps go before the little EMI filter caps. And that's probably the best place.
Here is what I do.
Solder a jumper (small bit of wire) in place of the stock input caps. This closes the circuit at the point were the input caps normally live. Then just solder the new input caps to the holes were the input wires normally come in. So now the input caps are "in the input wire."
As you said, just like the sleath mod. Works great!
Problem with Amp6
Hi all. I recently assempled an Amp6 (the "real" one, not the basic). I tried it as a power amp, driven with my good old Marantz 7. It is powered with a 15v 80va prafo. I connect it and one channel works perfectly and the other... no. If I disconnect the working channel (i mean that I disconnect the speaker), I can hear the "bad" channel very low, very far in its speaker...
Any idea about what I could check or control..?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Hi all. I recently assempled an Amp6 (the "real" one, not the basic). I tried it as a power amp, driven with my good old Marantz 7. It is powered with a 15v 80va prafo. I connect it and one channel works perfectly and the other... no. If I disconnect the working channel (i mean that I disconnect the speaker), I can hear the "bad" channel very low, very far in its speaker...
Any idea about what I could check or control..?
Thanks in advance for any help.
First - Check the wiring on your inputs. So you make a mistake? Check again.
Check the bad channel to see if it has more than about 100mV DC at the speaker terminal. If so, there may be a problem at the input.
Next thing to do is inspect all your solder connections. Some you will need to inspect with a magnifying glass.
Next, check the diodes. The markings on the SMD diodes are VERY hard to see. You might have gotten one installed backward. But that usually shuts down the amp.
If you don't find bad solder or backward diodes, then you need to trace the signal. Use a small screwdriver and touch the exposed parts in the signal path. being carefull not to make a short circuit. When you touch the metal screwdriver to a point on the input path, you should get a buzz in the speaker. You can verify this with the working channel.
Report back with what you find.
Check the bad channel to see if it has more than about 100mV DC at the speaker terminal. If so, there may be a problem at the input.
Next thing to do is inspect all your solder connections. Some you will need to inspect with a magnifying glass.
Next, check the diodes. The markings on the SMD diodes are VERY hard to see. You might have gotten one installed backward. But that usually shuts down the amp.
If you don't find bad solder or backward diodes, then you need to trace the signal. Use a small screwdriver and touch the exposed parts in the signal path. being carefull not to make a short circuit. When you touch the metal screwdriver to a point on the input path, you should get a buzz in the speaker. You can verify this with the working channel.
Report back with what you find.
panomaniac said:
I inspected all: solderings look right, input connections look fine, diodes are in place. I treced the signal with the small screwdriver and I have the same result: when I touch the exposed parts in the signal path the buzz comes from the "good" channel. A very, very lower buzz (almost unudible) come from the "bad" channel when I touch that side.
I would not like to surrender, but at this point I don't know what else I could do...
Re: Re: Problem with Amp6
It can be interesting to know "where" you found the bridge, since in many places a bridge could stop completely the amplifier, and this is not the case: do you remember where you found yours? Thanks anyway, since this is another good help after panomaniac's one!
kocsu said:
It can be interesting to know "where" you found the bridge, since in many places a bridge could stop completely the amplifier, and this is not the case: do you remember where you found yours? Thanks anyway, since this is another good help after panomaniac's one!
Hi niico,
I tried to send personal mail, but I'm too new in this forum so I'm under moderation,
Well, I've been reading about your experience with 6 amp building and it's very convincing. I must say that I'm in a very similar situation as you, I think:
1- Totally novice
2-right now I'm building my DIY fostex speakers,
3-I have not much time to do this tipe of work, I only have time on saturdays in the afternoon. Maybe it's plenty, but I don't know how long it takes to do this amp.
4-Then, I started to get involved with these mini amps, reading and reading reviews, and I came to DIY tripath amps.
5-Maybe I give up and buy a trends Audio, or get Lepai T, wich I've been asking allready to other collegues here in this site.
Well, the question it's not very origina?, but once again: How dificult you found soldering this amp?
If I decide to do so, do you mind me asking you any problem I would have (I hope not bodder much)
Cheers niico
I tried to send personal mail, but I'm too new in this forum so I'm under moderation,
Well, I've been reading about your experience with 6 amp building and it's very convincing. I must say that I'm in a very similar situation as you, I think:
1- Totally novice
2-right now I'm building my DIY fostex speakers,
3-I have not much time to do this tipe of work, I only have time on saturdays in the afternoon. Maybe it's plenty, but I don't know how long it takes to do this amp.
4-Then, I started to get involved with these mini amps, reading and reading reviews, and I came to DIY tripath amps.
5-Maybe I give up and buy a trends Audio, or get Lepai T, wich I've been asking allready to other collegues here in this site.
Well, the question it's not very origina?, but once again: How dificult you found soldering this amp?
If I decide to do so, do you mind me asking you any problem I would have (I hope not bodder much)
Cheers niico
Where to begin..
I recently completed an amp 6 Basic, using a 36watt, 12VDC SMPS to provide the power. I used decent quality RCA inputs and similar quality binding posts.
I encourage all who are interested to read a couple of articles that I've written about my experiences in Affordable$$Audio. I too am a "newbie" when it comes to amplifier kit construction. Taking the time to get or build a suitable enclosure seems to be the biggest hastle (I am in awe of those who complete projects like this , and then house them in professional-looking enclosures).
My only true "issue" was the sacrifice of a Tripath chip, because I simply did not look at the chip after I inserted it into the holes--1 leg didn't go in completely, became further bent and touched another pin. Upon "ignition"--no flames , but smoke. Now resolved (thanks Jan), the 'lil amp impresses me daily.
I know that the Amp6 and the Amp6 Basic are a little different, but if the 6 sounds 1/2 as good as the 6 Basic (which I'm sure is not the case, it must be the other way around), then most will be impressed. I was and still am.
I recently completed an amp 6 Basic, using a 36watt, 12VDC SMPS to provide the power. I used decent quality RCA inputs and similar quality binding posts.
I encourage all who are interested to read a couple of articles that I've written about my experiences in Affordable$$Audio. I too am a "newbie" when it comes to amplifier kit construction. Taking the time to get or build a suitable enclosure seems to be the biggest hastle (I am in awe of those who complete projects like this , and then house them in professional-looking enclosures).
My only true "issue" was the sacrifice of a Tripath chip, because I simply did not look at the chip after I inserted it into the holes--1 leg didn't go in completely, became further bent and touched another pin. Upon "ignition"--no flames , but smoke. Now resolved (thanks Jan), the 'lil amp impresses me daily.
I know that the Amp6 and the Amp6 Basic are a little different, but if the 6 sounds 1/2 as good as the 6 Basic (which I'm sure is not the case, it must be the other way around), then most will be impressed. I was and still am.
Hello,
I just got my Amp6 working (I think). I used
Pano's stuffing sequence. Worked like a charm.
(Thanks, Pano!)
One issue I had is that it seems that one should
use a switch that is isolated from the chassis if
the mute switch is to implemented. My toggle
was not and it caused the T-amp to just click and
none of the LEDs would come on. (Must have
missed that in the instructions somewhere...)
Anyway, I measured DC offsets for both channels.
They bounce around a bit, but are in the 20-30 mV
range. I've read that some AMP6's have high
DC offsets so I guess I'm lucky.
Cheers,
Dennis
I just got my Amp6 working (I think). I used
Pano's stuffing sequence. Worked like a charm.
(Thanks, Pano!)
One issue I had is that it seems that one should
use a switch that is isolated from the chassis if
the mute switch is to implemented. My toggle
was not and it caused the T-amp to just click and
none of the LEDs would come on. (Must have
missed that in the instructions somewhere...)
Anyway, I measured DC offsets for both channels.
They bounce around a bit, but are in the 20-30 mV
range. I've read that some AMP6's have high
DC offsets so I guess I'm lucky.
Cheers,
Dennis
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