UCD 400 module version 6.1

Ric Schultz · 7th March 2006, 07:55 AM

Just received the latest 6.1 modules and here are the new goodies:

1. pot on stand up board to zero offset if you remove coupling caps (first done on UCD 700 and now implemented here).

2. provision for single op amps. There are now three op amp pads on the board....the center one populated by dual op amp. You can remove the dual and put singles on.

3. four pads for CRDs (constant current sources). You can wire them to the positive rail or negative rail.

4. 22uf electrolytic caps in place of .1 ceramic on op amp supply.

5. pad for plus and minus 12V and ground for separate power supply. also easier to locate 10 ohm resistors you need to remove to add separate supply.

6. different electrolytics. all Yageo except for 10ufs and bootstrap which are dark blue pannies.

All in all some nice updates. I imagine the UCD180/700 modules are or are going to be updated the same way. If you are going to be buying modules soon, I would make sure to get the latest ones. Maybe Jan-Peter can jump in here and give some more info. Jan-Peter emailed me that they are not going to offer the modules with single op amps....just an option for DIYers and manufacturers, like myself.

mirlo · 7th March 2006, 08:12 AM

What do they use for the output filter capacitor?

Ric Schultz · 7th March 2006, 08:35 AM

same redish dipped cap they used in version 5 (some say its a Panasonic). Looks like one, not sure, myself. Decent cap sonically.

classd4sure · 8th March 2006, 01:49 AM

Hi Ric.

What a shame that kind of info doesn't come to us straight from Hypex... we've been abandoned.

Sounds like some long awaited features are seeing the light of day.

In the 700 they recommended that new pot not ever be adjusted as it's factory set, they really stressed not to touch it. Did you get that same recommendation?

I found the Yageo decoupling caps peaked the high's and lacked a little thunder in the bass, but sounded very neutral!

Can you tell us if we get those options at the same price as before?

Should I dare to ask if this is a manufacturer only re-version

Thank you kindly for the update, good luck with your amps.

Cheers,
BigMouth

Ric Schultz · 8th March 2006, 05:50 AM

I think you are mixing up the bias pot with the offset pot. The new pot is one the standup board and I believe it is to set the DC voltage to less than 1mv when you remove the coupling caps (as described in the UCD 700 manual). The other pot on the main board should never be touched.

I don't think there has been a price raise and these modules, I am sure, are for everyone....just the latest version, that's all.

Thanks for the heads up on the Yageos...I will be changing them all out anyway.

classd4sure · 8th March 2006, 06:04 AM

You're right, I only gave the 700 manual a quick glance and misunderstood that part of it.

Did you receive any news on the overcurrent protection? I'm curious to know if it's more like the 700, two stage so to speak. Thought that was a neat idea.

Have you got your decoupling caps already selected?

Ric Schultz · 9th March 2006, 11:24 PM

Don't know anything about the overprotection scheme. Looks to me as if only what I described was changed on the board.

I'll be trying Blackgates this week. I usually like them best (but not always) and at 100Vs you don't get as much choice. Sure wish they would make the Rubycon ZL/ZA series in that voltage. They do some things really well.

Mike2 · 10th March 2006, 07:21 PM

Just got a pair of V6 boards and have a question. They have the pads for +/- 12v supply but I seem to have missed the part about removing the 10 Ohm resistors.

"5. pad for plus and minus 12V and ground for separate power supply. also easier to locate 10 ohm resistors you need to remove to add separate supply."

I thought you just needed to remove the two Reg's. Can some one clear this up for me? Also is it R9/R10 the 10 Ohm resistor that needs removing?

Ric Schultz · 10th March 2006, 07:57 PM

Don't remove the original regulators...well, you can remove the negative voltage one(T17). The original positive voltage regulator(T16) also runs the chip that works with the mute circuit so it should be left in place. The 10 ohm resistors feed the op amp. So, by removing them and adding your own supply to the newly marked pads you are only powering the opamp and not the chip that works with the mute circuit.

Yes, R9 and R10 are the resistors to remove.

Mike2 · 10th March 2006, 08:23 PM

Thanks Ric.
I was going by the note from Hpex for connecting the auxiliary supply that shows removing the two Reg's. With the pads on the new boards removing the resistors makes more sense. Also as a note you mention a pot on the stand up board. Mine does not have this. Every thing else is there though.

7th March 2006, 07:55 AM	#1
Ric Schultz diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Boulder Creek, CA	UCD 400 module version 6.1 Just received the latest 6.1 modules and here are the new goodies: 1. pot on stand up board to zero offset if you remove coupling caps (first done on UCD 700 and now implemented here). 2. provision for single op amps. There are now three op amp pads on the board....the center one populated by dual op amp. You can remove the dual and put singles on. 3. four pads for CRDs (constant current sources). You can wire them to the positive rail or negative rail. 4. 22uf electrolytic caps in place of .1 ceramic on op amp supply. 5. pad for plus and minus 12V and ground for separate power supply. also easier to locate 10 ohm resistors you need to remove to add separate supply. 6. different electrolytics. all Yageo except for 10ufs and bootstrap which are dark blue pannies. All in all some nice updates. I imagine the UCD180/700 modules are or are going to be updated the same way. If you are going to be buying modules soon, I would make sure to get the latest ones. Maybe Jan-Peter can jump in here and give some more info. Jan-Peter emailed me that they are not going to offer the modules with single op amps....just an option for DIYers and manufacturers, like myself.

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7th March 2006, 08:12 AM	#2
mirlo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: San Diego	What do they use for the output filter capacitor?

7th March 2006, 08:35 AM	#3
Ric Schultz diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Boulder Creek, CA	same redish dipped cap they used in version 5 (some say its a Panasonic). Looks like one, not sure, myself. Decent cap sonically.

8th March 2006, 01:49 AM	#4
classd4sure Account Disabled Join Date: Feb 2004	Hi Ric. What a shame that kind of info doesn't come to us straight from Hypex... we've been abandoned. Sounds like some long awaited features are seeing the light of day. In the 700 they recommended that new pot not ever be adjusted as it's factory set, they really stressed not to touch it. Did you get that same recommendation? I found the Yageo decoupling caps peaked the high's and lacked a little thunder in the bass, but sounded very neutral! Can you tell us if we get those options at the same price as before? Should I dare to ask if this is a manufacturer only re-version Thank you kindly for the update, good luck with your amps. Cheers, BigMouth

8th March 2006, 05:50 AM	#5
Ric Schultz diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Boulder Creek, CA	I think you are mixing up the bias pot with the offset pot. The new pot is one the standup board and I believe it is to set the DC voltage to less than 1mv when you remove the coupling caps (as described in the UCD 700 manual). The other pot on the main board should never be touched. I don't think there has been a price raise and these modules, I am sure, are for everyone....just the latest version, that's all. Thanks for the heads up on the Yageos...I will be changing them all out anyway.

8th March 2006, 06:04 AM	#6
classd4sure Account Disabled Join Date: Feb 2004	You're right, I only gave the 700 manual a quick glance and misunderstood that part of it. Did you receive any news on the overcurrent protection? I'm curious to know if it's more like the 700, two stage so to speak. Thought that was a neat idea. Have you got your decoupling caps already selected?

9th March 2006, 11:24 PM	#7
Ric Schultz diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Boulder Creek, CA	Don't know anything about the overprotection scheme. Looks to me as if only what I described was changed on the board. I'll be trying Blackgates this week. I usually like them best (but not always) and at 100Vs you don't get as much choice. Sure wish they would make the Rubycon ZL/ZA series in that voltage. They do some things really well.

10th March 2006, 07:21 PM	#8
Mike2 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: MN	Just got a pair of V6 boards and have a question. They have the pads for +/- 12v supply but I seem to have missed the part about removing the 10 Ohm resistors. "5. pad for plus and minus 12V and ground for separate power supply. also easier to locate 10 ohm resistors you need to remove to add separate supply." I thought you just needed to remove the two Reg's. Can some one clear this up for me? Also is it R9/R10 the 10 Ohm resistor that needs removing?

10th March 2006, 07:57 PM	#9
Ric Schultz diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Boulder Creek, CA	Don't remove the original regulators...well, you can remove the negative voltage one(T17). The original positive voltage regulator(T16) also runs the chip that works with the mute circuit so it should be left in place. The 10 ohm resistors feed the op amp. So, by removing them and adding your own supply to the newly marked pads you are only powering the opamp and not the chip that works with the mute circuit. Yes, R9 and R10 are the resistors to remove.

10th March 2006, 08:23 PM	#10
Mike2 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: MN	Thanks Ric. I was going by the note from Hpex for connecting the auxiliary supply that shows removing the two Reg's. With the pads on the new boards removing the resistors makes more sense. Also as a note you mention a pot on the stand up board. Mine does not have this. Every thing else is there though.

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