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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 1st July 2004, 01:55 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by fr0st
Car audio is mostly about wank factor. Brands like Sony, Pioneer, Boss etc. thrive on Max ratings and cheap products. Personly I hate the mainstream car audio products and most of thier owners. The amount of people that believe thier sony coaxial speakers jammed into thier door's whilst running off a .8% THD amp @ 30wrms (300w max....) sounds good is amazing. Several of my friends make thier own box and simply cut any old hole (!) for a port (They don't listen to my advice though i did make him download WinISD).
Your right about the wank factor! LOL,
But to be fair thats just one group of poor lost souls, normally 18 year olds that dont know any better yet.
That Air raid siren is a wicked idea! what could that do at 1 metre?
I have a V8 power WW2 air raid siren in my uncles farm, its None OP and its bigger than my car! this SLP drag thing sounds crazy and dangerous to me, that kind of db would damaged anybody hearing in a heart beat!
The strange part to me is that 99% of that power is turned into heat in there voice coils, so its like from 1000w of amplifier output only 10 watts is converted to acoustic pressure! nobody believes me when i tell them this fact.
so even a 10,000 systems only has 100 watts of energy being converted into pure sound energy so getting the most highest rated sensitivity speakers would be best, IMO, something like 101 db per watt not 90 db per watt, that make sense?
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Old 1st July 2004, 11:40 PM   #32
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you are correct there its all about wank factor .I have never seen any car audio that can do what it says it can do and they mostly sound like **** to flash crome speakers that only suck power ,get hot and make **** disp sound.I mod around 2 (freinds ,friendrs of friends )cars a month that come from the wank audio shop(pro car audio,driving sound,ect)I get asked can you make it do more than just go boom boom
frost can you post the scematics for you amp I am playing around with something simlar size at the moment 1200-1400w rms 110-120v +/- rails but not for a car
also what are you going to power this amp with off the bat or geni
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Old 2nd July 2004, 09:00 AM   #33
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The amp schematic is here
ssamor hasn't posted here since last year so I don't know how well it worked. I'm going to create a daughter board for the MAX4295 so if it doens't work or I decide to experiment with UCD I can switch them whilst keeping the same power stage.
If you have a look in the Electronics and parts forum under "switching large amounts of fets" (I think), Subwo posted a schematic for the buffered IR2110 using complementry mosfets in an SO-8 package.
I'm powering it straight off the battery, for normal listening levels it probably won't draw over 30amps anyway.


Quote:
But to be fair thats just one group of poor lost souls, normally 18 year olds that dont know any better yet.
Lucky I only just turned 17 then
2 weeks and I'm legally allowed to drive on my own

Quote:
so even a 10,000 systems only has 100 watts of energy being converted into pure sound energy so getting the most highest rated sensitivity speakers would be best, IMO, something like 101 db per watt not 90 db per watt, that make sense?
That's true but most speakers with a large Xmax (required for the huge spl levels) require large spiders and large surrounds which is all ontop of the heavy, rigid cone. All this drags down the efficiency dramatically. Have a look at http://www.ddaudio.com/caraudio/woof...p?series=9500e , I would consider those to be almost the #1 spl sub you can get (pathenon excluded). One of the last remaining car brands that rates in RMS over max
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