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Old 31st October 2002, 12:19 PM   #11
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Hi Lligior

I once built a class-d amp using a "hand woven" modulator. It was consisting of a cristal controlled rectangular generator, an intergrator and a double comparator (to add dead-time).

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Old 31st October 2002, 02:17 PM   #12
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I dont know if the JBL 1200.1 can be bridged, but I have a feeling it can be, a lot of these amps sem to have the same internals, and I know there are a few class D amps that cn be bridged together onto one sub.

Im suprised someone on here would say there are no 1500 watt drivers. Even JL audo mass produced brand has some drivers that will take this. there is a lot fo brute force engineering int eh car audio world. I guess thats what it takes to hit 170+ DB in a vehicle (of sorts.)

Until I sold it, my car was mid 140's
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Old 31st October 2002, 03:21 PM   #13
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BTW

I forgot to mention that there are a lot of specialised modulator ICs around for class-d amplifiers.

The hardest part to get right within a class-d amp are still the EMC properties. A superior circuit can be made perform badly if thos things are not made well (layout etc...). Don't forget that class-d amps are high-precision RF circuits used for processing audio.

The best way to go might be a fully worked-out design, e.g. like the Tripath ones.

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Old 31st October 2002, 04:48 PM   #14
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griff, why do you want so many decibells in your car? 123 dB or more. Or, is it just a thing?

griff, why don't you start with let's say 100 watts class D and then go from there. If you succeed with 100 watts, I gather it's easier to see if there is a small chance to succeed with higher output power.
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Old 31st October 2002, 07:24 PM   #15
griff is offline griff  Australia
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Quote:
Originally posted by peranders
griff, why do you want so many decibells in your car? 123 dB or more. Or, is it just a thing?

griff, why don't you start with let's say 100 watts class D and then go from there. If you succeed with 100 watts, I gather it's easier to see if there is a small chance to succeed with higher output power.
It isnt just a cool thing, have you ever experience a quality car setup? Its a different world to HT.

This amp will be running Brahmas hopefully, which can take anything i am able to throw at them, and they really dont have the efficiency to work with 100 watts and still, to use a car audio technical term, "bump".

As for the JBL, it is a mono 1200 watts stable to 2 ohm, supposedly to 1 ohm but it isnt all that happy that low.

There are literally hundreds of drivers that can take 1000watts rms, some can even take 4000rms.

Thanks guys
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Old 31st October 2002, 07:28 PM   #16
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I'm not sure bridgeing (spelling ???) a class D amp works like you expect. The most you can expect out of it is double the current, I think it is impossible to get double the voltage. If its already stable to 1ohm that gets you nowhere... may as well have 2 drivers amped seperately. Unless somebody makes a .5 ohm sub. On a side note I used to have a car with a bose system and its drivers tested out at .47 Ohm at DC
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Old 1st November 2002, 06:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lligior
I'm not sure bridgeing (spelling ???) a class D amp works like you expect.
Every(?) class D amp is bridged already. The output stage is a H-bridge and can not be bridged with an another amp.
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Old 1st November 2002, 06:37 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by griff


It isnt just a cool thing, have you ever experience a quality car setup? Its a different world to HT.

This amp will be running Brahmas hopefully, which can take anything i am able to throw at them, and they really dont have the efficiency to work with 100 watts and still, to use a car audio technical term, "bump".

As for the JBL, it is a mono 1200 watts stable to 2 ohm, supposedly to 1 ohm but it isnt all that happy that low.

There are literally hundreds of drivers that can take 1000watts rms, some can even take 4000rms.
I still wonder, if you have a living room, big one, I can understand the need of a horse power amp, but in a small car (small room)? If you get a low effecient speaker with 90 dB/1W/meter you will still get over 120 dB = jävligt högt, (b****y high) to talk plain swedish. If you get more effecient speakers, 96 dB, you will only need 375 watts. Have you thought about that?

BTW: What is HT?
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Old 1st November 2002, 07:31 AM   #19
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Griff,

Sorry for the obvious sarcasm, but exactly how do you map the 1500 W class D to a "quality car setup"? Wouldn't it be more reasonable to aim for a lower power and better quality amplifier with a higher sensitivity speaker? To obtain good sound rather than loud? I think 123 dBs, IHMO, is not to be confused with quality but rather is about making impressive numbers.

P-A,

HT in many cases stands for Home Theater. In other cases it is for High Tension (as in High Voltage). You choose in this case.

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Old 1st November 2002, 07:51 AM   #20
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I have a fresh memorty of the decibell contest at the exihition here in Gothenburg (Hifi mässan Arken). A couple of guys had maaaany watts in their cars and biiiig woofers. They got 143-147 dB inside the car continiously(!). They also played music real loud and it sounded simply bad. Is it fun to ONLY listen to bass? Normal speakers (at home) don't have 18" 1000 W base and 5" 50W, mid and 1" high 5 W, not I at least.

griff, I don't want to spoil your fun, but I think it's a little too complicated in order to succeed. I'm very interested how your project progresses.
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