Help Wiring a Replacement Potentiometer for Sonic T

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Can someone explain the wiring sequence for connecting the amp to an ALPHA 50 K (3 post) pot? This would be using the "5" available white wires off the stock connector. I don't have a double pot on hand and would like to use this one but can't figure out which wires are soldered to which post. I've tried the obvious websites, but all references I've found refer to the ALPS double pot (which I don't have and would surely cost me more than the amp to order!). :xeye:
 
She powered up once with sound in the left speaker, nothing in the right. Rechecked all solders, figured I wired the pot wrong. Unsoldered the pot and tried numerous permutations, no sound only a low buzz in each speaker. LED lights up and no smoke. Did I kill it?
 

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The pinouts for the T-Amp control are in THIS thread.

This is from Motherone's description:

Motherone said:
=============
Connector #1:
=============

(from Left to Right):
V + Ro Lo G Li Ri

V = switch 12volt out
+ = switch 12volt in
Ro = to volume from right channel
Lo = to volume from left channel
G = ground
Li = from volume control to amp left channel
Ri = from volume control to amp right channel





Best regards,
PCH
 
Thanks! Well, I think I screwed up with this amp. No smoke, but no sound either. Either this Alpha pot I'm using must have been damaged when I hooked it up last night, I am connecting it incorrectly (5 wires to 3 posts?) or I fried a perfectly good T.

Motherone (I believe) previously suggested ground may be left, input on the right, and L/R in the middle. That isn't working on mine, so back to the bench I go. I measured the pot using a DMM and got 50, but now what to do? If I had only gone with a double pot in the first place (as described by others), I wouldn't be here now. I'd be enjoying the tunes that this amp put out while encased in its original plastic box. Using what is cheap/readily available in components can be a downfall.
 
The schematic from Mike Mardis may help -

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


You need two potentiometers (ganged for stereo is good).

The ground goes on one end, the input on the other, and the ouput (to the amp) from the middle.

Go back to the original potentiometer and hook it up again. This way you can tell if the amp or your pot is is the culprit.





PCH
 
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Connections

PCHuggs said:
[This is from Motherone's description:

Unfortunately this is reversed. It should read:

(as seen from the top - Left to Right)
V+ | Vin | Ri | Li | G | Lo | Ro

V+ = to positive power rail
Vin = from power connector
Li = to amp left input
Ri = to amp right input
G = ground
Ro = to volume from mini jack
Lo = to volume from mini jack

I wonder if we can get a moderator to correct the post? It would be a shame to leave it reversed.

Hooking it up backward won't hurt, but it won't work! :(
 
I can read the pinouts with no problem using the old pot PCB. It's the application of these 5 wires to a 3 post pot that has me confused. Are all the white wires going to the pots, then 1 extra wire each going from there back to each input RCA center pin (Li and Ri)? I understand left, right, and ground....it's the other 2 wires that I can't sort out.

Thanks for your help, I know you are really trying hard to coach me out of this but as often suggested by others here I am "obviously in over my head" and will pitch this formerly nice sounding amp in the garbage and walk away with 30 less in my pocket but richer for the experience.
 
Audio1st, I bow in your presence! I unsoldered the + and - on my inputs from the PCB, ran them directly to a 100K dual pot (closest quick one I could get at lunch today), wiring as your diagram shows. :D She fired right up!! WOOHOO!! I had a little over 100 hours of continuous run time on this amp before surgery. I'm going to connect the amp to a pair of NOS Radio Shack 4-inch fullrangers in Z-hornets (or maybe even the 6-inch fullrangers in Voight pipes) and let 'em run for a few days. I am still using a 12V wallwart (for now). Thanks again Panomaniac, PCHuggs, and BWRX as well. I certainly owe you all a round, thanks.

BTW The older models of Playstation 1 are still my favorite CDPs!
 
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Smokehouse Bob said:
BTW The older models of Playstation 1 are still my favorite CDPs!
Really? What's up with them? They should be cheap to buy, yeah?

Hey Bob, do you know Tony Slafta? He's in Atlanta too and has done a few sonic amps. He loves em. You guys should get together. Contact me, I'll put you in touch.

Glad to hear you got the thing up and running. Happy Turkey Day!
 
The SCPH 1001 is the best model I've tried so far. Great audio output for a CDP and dirt cheap. This model and the 1002 have separate left and right RCA outputs. Clear, crisp, and detailed. There are other models to try as well, but this early model is most sought after. My last one cost more in shipping ($8) than the unit ($7) on that infamous auction site. Try it, you'll like it for the cost. Only drawback is having to use the game controller for changing tracks. The 1001 is pushing a nice signal to the Z-horns as I type, pretty loud for 4-inchers.

Tony? Don't know him but I would like to meet him since he's local. You can reach me at cruisaire@hotmail.com.

Gobble, gobble.....have a great day and don't eat too much. :cool:
 
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