Charlize, my thoughts

I have rebuilt my Charlize. Removed the 10,000uf caps , and installed a better on/off switch. This fixed the percecption that this amp is a bit polite. All I can say is WOW. This is an amazing amp. I am hearing things in every track, and it just makes the instruments sound real. Highly recomended. The best amp I have owned. My B200's OB just love it.

Happy Nigel
 
barfind said:
I have rebuilt my Charlize. Removed the 10,000uf caps , and installed a better on/off switch. This fixed the percecption that this amp is a bit polite. All I can say is WOW. This is an amazing amp. I am hearing things in every track, and it just makes the instruments sound real. Highly recomended. The best amp I have owned. My B200's OB just love it.

Happy Nigel

Hi,
I just want to be sure that I understand well what you said. You were using a 10,000 uf caps as a reservoir (located just before Charlize) and now the psu is directly hooked to Charlize ?

Your experience is relevant for me as I use a 10 000uf + 1000 uf as reservoir and find Charlize performance to be different then what it was before I added the caps. I still have to find the time to compare the sound of both configurations and see if the difference is real and what I prefer.

Thanks !
 
kanaddict said:


Hi,
I just want to be sure that I understand well what you said. You were using a 10,000 uf caps as a reservoir (located just before Charlize) and now the psu is directly hooked to Charlize ?

Your experience is relevant for me as I use a 10 000uf + 1000 uf as reservoir and find Charlize performance to be different then what it was before I added the caps. I still have to find the time to compare the sound of both configurations and see if the difference is real and what I prefer.

Thanks !

Yep 10,000 (4600+4600+800) before Charlize. I didn't like it. Took away rythem and pace. Also put a better switch to handle the current. Great now.

Nigel
 
barfind said:


Yep 10,000 (4600+4600+800) before Charlize. I didn't like it. Took away rythem and pace. Also put a better switch to handle the current. Great now.

Nigel


Thanks Niegel !

For the moment, it's the bass that seem to have changed when adding the caps. But, I can't say for sure if the change is linked to the caps because it took me a few days to really take attention to that. I'll try to compare the sound of the two configurations (with and without the caps) next weekend.

I'll post the result for the benefit of all !

Regards,
 
Excuse my ignorance... but what is a buffer? (to put between the attenuator and the amp)

It's an electronic circuit that has a high input impedance and a low output impedance.

It helps when you have one item, ie a DAC that needs to work into a high impedance circuit but the second item, eg Charlize has a low input impedance. I hope that makes sense as impedance matching seems to be a difficult concept to understand for beginners. :att'n:
 
Soft Start + Pot Wiring : Out of my Depth with "Charlize"

Soft Start + Pot Wiring : Out of my Depth with "Charlize"

Greetings All - New to DIY / Electronics & forums ; following these threads with interest . Expecting "Charlize" soon , & would very much appreciate advise .

While the posts are clear to many - the "electronically illiterate" may require photos / labelling / schematics to ensure she is happy .

vt4c wrote :
"The 'soft-start' circuit will eliminate the turn-on pop entirely.
All you need to do it to connect a 240 - 280 ohms, 1/2W resistor across the positive supply line. Turn the Charlize on via the resistor and then bypass the resistor after that. I did mine using a selector switch. Off (position 1) -> supply via resistor (position 2) ->
bypass resistor and supply direct to Chalize (position 3) "

In my case "Charlize" will be singing through Mission 762i - 92dB
& 8 Ohm "bookshelf" speakers which will not appreciate a good thumping . Nor can we have her singing off key due to my lack of wiring / layout knowledge .

So a four pole switch [ I see "contact rating 150mA @ 240VAC " ] is on the way from my supplier + resistors + 50k log double gang 9mm square pot ( cheap ) 0.02w is all I could obtain [ attenuator / replacement later ] .

Is it possible for a post with correct layout / wiring as DonJuan has said that the pot is Not to be tied to ground , & it is difficult to see from his photo exactly how to set this up when he has used the mute switch . I note varied topology , including fuses etc - how would you do a "Charlize" layout .

Personally as this is my first diy , & there is only one chance to get it right , photos + further direction is appreciated . It is understood that this is very simple when you know how , so please have patience for those who are inexperienced in this field .

Many thanks for your assistance & clear photos of your "Charlize".
 
Buffer question

dede said:
I'am interrested by the buffer question. I use charlize in a little bit different configuration, i mean i havn't got pré... I use this sound card as source www.maxioxd.com and i controle volume by software. The outpout impedance of the dac is 110 ohms. Does a buffer could be an improvement in my situation?


Dede,
The basic buffer shown has rather high output impedance so there wouldn’t be any gain there. Adding extra cables, parts and power supplies into the mix should only be done to fix a real problem. Only then would you note an improvement in sound. In your case I doubt it would help and might actually hurt.
In Nuuk’s case he stated he was fixing an impedance mismatch so this did help.
Roger
 
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Joined 2004
Paid Member
barfind said:
I have rebuilt my Charlize. Removed the 10,000uf caps

Well Nigel, must say this is very odd. I don't know how it could work that way. What are you using as power upstream of the 10,000uF you removed?

In my amps I use a 10,000uF Nichicon "Gold Tune" both before and after the regulated supply. I find that it helps the amp. With the cap I get more bass, more dynamics and a more stable sound stage.

If I look at the power supply rail the addition of the big cap reduces voltage fluctuation to just a few mV. A more constant supply should be better, no?

The Gainclone crowd often writes about not liking too much capacitance in the PSU. That goes against all my training and experience, so I'm skeptical...

I will rig up an amp with a 10,000uF cap that can be switched in and out of the circuit and have a listen.

Anyone else care to try?
 
panomaniac said:


Well Nigel, must say this is very odd. I don't know how it could work that way. What are you using as power upstream of the 10,000uF you removed?

In my amps I use a 10,000uF Nichicon "Gold Tune" both before and after the regulated supply. I find that it helps the amp. With the cap I get more bass, more dynamics and a more stable sound stage.

If I look at the power supply rail the addition of the big cap reduces voltage fluctuation to just a few mV. A more constant supply should be better, no?

The Gainclone crowd often writes about not liking too much capacitance in the PSU. That goes against all my training and experience, so I'm skeptical...

I will rig up an amp with a 10,000uF cap that can be switched in and out of the circuit and have a listen.

Anyone else care to try?

Hi Micheal, strange but true. I am running charlize with a 7ah SLA, nothing between it and the amp except the on/off switch. O well must be the way I held my mouth :)

Nigel
 
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Joined 2004
Paid Member
Well I hope it's not too O.T., but I was finishing a buffer today, BB OP2134.
It has 50uF on each leg near the chip.
Listening to it via head phones (it's a great HP amp) I tried 12V battery, then 12V regulated PSU with 8,000uF on the regulated side.

Going from bare battery to PSU gave a nice rich sound. The sound stage seemed to move away from my ears and the space got bigger. Much more pleasant.

The OP2134 doesn't draw much current, so it's hard to compare to a Tripath chip running speakers. Weekend testing will be interesting. :cheerful:
 
kanaddict said:


For the moment, it's the bass that seem to have changed when adding the caps. But, I can't say for sure if the change is linked to the caps because it took me a few days to really take attention to that. I'll try to compare the sound of the two configurations (with and without the caps) next weekend.

I'll post the result for the benefit of all !

Regards,


Hi,

I finally found the time to compare both configuration and guess what….the caps are out of the case :smash:

Without the caps, the amp sound more dynamic with a more present bass. This is not like night and day, but still easy to notify for educated ears :hphones:

Thanks again Niegel !

:witch: :witch: :witch:
 
kanaddict said:



Hi,

I finally found the time to compare both configuration and guess what….the caps are out of the case :smash:

Without the caps, the amp sound more dynamic with a more present bass. This is not like night and day, but still easy to notify for educated ears :hphones:

Thanks again Niegel !

:witch: :witch: :witch:

Hi kanaddict, I noticed the same effect. My 100db OB's easily show up things like slow dynamics and pace. I am very happy with the amp with caps out. Each to their own, but I could not live with this amp with the caps in :)

Nigel
 
Hi Barfind

I concur with you - I think you have to have speakers that can reveal these fine details.
I think that speakers that lack the ability to reproduce microdynamics / air will seem to do better with caps but IMO only bacuse it makes the sound fatter and slower, giving the impression that there is more there ( probaly with small speakers that have a limited dynamic range anyway). But with HDef speakers It is obvious that it just creates a slow blotted sound.
Of course the prob. could be the caps themselves - but them you have to go around playing with different caps and that can get $$$.
IMHO caps only color and slow things down - You have to get into expensive caps for the color to be nice and the timing relaxed without losing speed.

Remember post #25

Bachiano