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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: so. ca.
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Quote:
Roger
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Happiness is being owned by a cat |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cambridge, UK
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Quote:
I built many valve amplifiers and other pieces of electronic equipment in my (mis-spent?) youth when we used proper 'man-sized' components, but I have not wielded a soldering iron in agnst for many a year now and certainly not on something so small as the SI. I recongised my limitations on openning up my first SI, hence my decision to ease myself back into the soldering fold by first building the Class-t-amp-2020 kit from Autocostruire - it uses those proper 'man-sized' components - see my post number 10 on the thread "For all t-amp tweakers". (For all T-amp tweakers) My Autocostruire order has shipped and I eagerly await delivery - soldering iron is plugged-in ready. Maybe after a successful build will I advance with soldering iron onto the SI's. CambshireGordon
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Let your ears by your judge |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: so. ca.
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Working with these small components can be frustrating. Get out the 10X loupe and inspect the job, looks perfect but happens to be the wrong component or wrong place...
The other thing is that the SI boards are far from being high quality. The traces are super thin and pads can be easily destroyed. Just always remember to put only very low amounts of pressure on them and you should be ok. I drape a piece of solder wick across the whole component and that way heat and remove solder from both sides at once. While the whole thing is hot a small sideways pressure will usually loosen it. Find an old computer board to practice on first. I did this and recovered some parts that are hard to find. On putting the new components on I put a dab of solder on only one pad first then while keeping it hot place the component down. You will find getting them positioned properly will take some practice, not so bad when only one side is soldered. On soldering the other side if you find you have left a big blob, not to worry as solder wick can suck up the excess with no problem. Larger multi lead components are best super glued into place first. This keeps a strain off of the component when you solder the leads down. I broke a couple of expensive opamps trying to line them up with one lead soldered. When you are done, use a high powered magnifier to carefully inspect every thing. Particularly look for solder bridges, real easy to do with this small close together stuff. Once again solder wick to the rescue! Takes a steady hand and a fine soldering tip. You will find one of those large lighted magnifiers and a good pair of fine tip tweezers to be helpful if not essential. Roger
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Happiness is being owned by a cat |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: H-Town
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Hi there,
could someone let me know the value of cap C12 ? I scratched it away while I was cutting it out of its original case.Many thanks, boarder |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: so. ca.
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Quote:
You are lucky, C12 is not critical in value as it is one of the power bypass caps. I would use from .47 up to 2 uf or so as long as they were rated at least 16 volts and are the same size. While you are at it you might as well upgrade both. Roger
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