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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: CT
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thanks for the comment
after seeing some of the t-amp mods and upgrades i think a hard shell suite case maybe next the t-amp seems like it would eat a horn and a high output 8" a deep cycle battery or 2 like a rolling concert thanks for the ideas guys |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NC
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Quote:
quiet, A little 12V 1.3 Ah SLA should give you 3-6 hours of quality play time when using an SI or similar product, so don't worry about taking up space and adding weight with big batteries. And the little SLAs slay the AA's in every aspect; those batteries recharge in about 30 minutes as well. Battery Mart dot com has pretty good prices and delivery for those.
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Henry |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: u.k
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hi quiet
crazy speaker man. looks wicked - what have tried it with so far? |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: CT
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thanks -
soon i will try the t-amp with a xternal x-over the current set up worked out nice - the cyber acoustic amp is 3 channel - originaly in a computer speaker set - so not much tweekin there as far as music goes - just about everything is acceptable for extended listining - at loud (max everything you got) levels its pretty bad though... the low end drops off like a cliff after 60hz or so... DIY Portable Speakers? better spot to continue maybe more on subject ... maybe? |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kingston, NY
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If the low end drops off around 50-60hz, you need to mod it. If you check the main T-Amp mod thread, it shows what parts need to be replaced. If I remember correctly, they completely eliminated any bass rolloff. Not that you were going to be powering any subs with one anyway.
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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To stop the bass rolloff, you need to replace the .33uF input coupling capacitor with something larger, like 2.0-2.2uF.
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: CT
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i have been reading up on the mods
here the last few days motherone - thank you Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications enough said - my my mind is going nuts with electronic engineering - i will be moding the t-amp following your and others advice - *quick thought - 5 in a nice case for a home theater - could be packaged very small - for smaller rooms of course thanks agian |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Nootdorp, Netherlands
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I am tweaking a sonic T amp too, and i have a question.
What are the little capacitors between the loudspeaker terminals for?? Can they leave them out or change for better ones? And what is the value of these capacitors? I found no information on internet about these capacitors. Thanks for any help.
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#29 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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Quote:
The value used in the SI is 0.15 ufd. The tripath data sheet shows 0.01. Several have ditched them and felt it clears up the sound. I use 0.01 ufd multilayer leaded ceramics here. Never tried no cap. It most likely is not needed. The caps used on board are 0.47 which is recommended for 4 ohm speakers. If your speakers are higher impedance than 4 ohm there is already more capacitance in the filter than needed. George |
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#30 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dublin
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George,
I have asked this question many times but got no reply - what values does anyone use for on board caps for 15ohm speakers? I see that you recommend taking out these caps as enough capacitance in the output inuctors I've tried to identify these caps on the board - are they C13 & C16 on top of board? John |
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