Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Class D
Home Forums Articles Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 30th April 2005, 01:31 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
Quote:
Originally posted by edtang
Just to confirm what I'll be doing... and a few more questions from the newbie...

Input:
I'll be getting a 2200uF 16V cap in series with a 20k Ohm resistor to connect from the volume POT to R1 & R2 (original R1 & R2 removed). This should take care of in the input caps right?


I think you have missed something here. Try 2.2 ufd caps.






Output:
Replace the 4 0.47uF caps C21-C24 (labeled "Co" on the Tripath data sheet). What value caps do I need to replace them with to make them match 4 Ohm impedance? (I see it says use 0.22uF for 8 Ohms)


There are no 0.47 or 0.22 ufd caps on the output of the SI. There is a 0.15 connected from +/-. Replace it with a 0.01 cap, then use 0.22 ufd from the speaker outputs to ground.





Where is the PSU coupling cap, and what size cap would you recommend to replace it?

Thanks for helping me out!

The power supply coupling cap can be anything you want. It is better if it is close to the board. Adding some small low impedance electrolytics from the power pins to the slug helps also. Look underneath and you will see the two surface mount caps bypassing the pins.


George
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2005, 01:50 PM   #12
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Toronto
Quote:
I'll be getting a 2200uf 16 v cap in series with a 20k ohm resistor
I assume that you mean a 2.2uf cap on the input circuit. If a 2200 uf is used, you will need ear plugs to mask the turn-on noise. Check out Panomaniac's site, he has an excellent diagram, (with photos), of the method you described. Also, if you go to page 4 of the thread titled Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications, you will find a discussion of the various options for coupling caps (with part numbers that Motherone was kind enough to supply).
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2005, 02:32 PM   #13
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Toronto
Quote:
Originally posted by Jumpin John
I assume that you mean a 2.2uf cap on the input circuit. If a 2200 uf is used, you will need ear plugs to mask the turn-on noise. Check out Panomaniac's site, he has an excellent diagram, (with photos), of the method you described. Also, if you go to page 4 of the thread titled Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications, you will find a discussion of the various options for coupling caps (with part numbers that Motherone was kind enough to supply).

Sorry, those are decoupling caps on page 4.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2005, 03:06 PM   #14
edtang is offline edtang  
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Michigan
Thanks guys. My parts will be coming in this week, I'll let you know how it goes.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th October 2007, 02:45 AM   #15
nbrophy is offline nbrophy  
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Default Surplus Flat-screen TV Stereo speakers

I found these Philips flat-screen TV stereo speakers while browsing All Electronics
(http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...SPEAKERS_.html).

They are listed as full-range 15W, 4 ohm speaker. I was thinking of buying a pair for my Sonic Impact T-amp. Anyone have any suggestion on whether these with be a good match for the T-amp?

Thanks,
Nathan
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th October 2007, 05:58 AM   #16
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 3
Default Re: Surplus Flat-screen TV Stereo speakers

Quote:
Originally posted by nbrophy
I found these Philips flat-screen TV stereo speakers while browsing All Electronics

They are listed as full-range 15W, 4 ohm speaker. I was thinking of buying a pair for my Sonic Impact T-amp. Anyone have any suggestion on whether these with be a good match for the T-amp?
You could probably find a more effective way to spend you $16. For instance, I think PE has some 3" TBs for about that that would go a lot further.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th October 2007, 09:01 PM   #17
diyAudio Member
 
Godzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New York
>>> A little off-topic, but it's too bad that AR just makes cables now.. I really love my AR speakers.

I had a pair of AR15, AR18 and AR92. AR was one heck of a force back in the day. I'd love to hear your AR11s just that i think the SI amp may not have enough juice for them to sing.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th October 2007, 10:03 PM   #18
diyAudio Member
 
AdamThorne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Minneapolis, MN
I own a t-amp, and I've heard some talk about how high-efficiency pro drivers are cool. So I've been kinda looking around for a 2-way maybe with a 12 inch driver and say 95-100 db efficiency that will give that 'effortless dynamics' feel. Maybe down to 40ish hz. Oh, and it's gotta be price-consumate to the t-amp.

Sadly, I have not seen much to satisfy this niche. I am thinking about trying to fill it myself, I've picked up a couple of MCM speakers 55-1745 (got 'em on sale for $25 each down from normal price $42) and I'm looking at PE's pyle pro ph44 horn tweeter. That's as far as I've gotten, tho. I got other projects to wrap up first... And anyway, someone suggested that the MCM woofer was a guitar speaker and wouldn't sound good. Time will tell - but at this point it might take a significant amount of time. If you all have any thoughts on this matter, I'd be interested to hear 'em.

But if you want to rock out with your t-amp, I understand a BIB would do it. My room can't support the BIBs, so I haven't really done the feasability study on that one.

Also, for those looking for a bit more volume, since I dropped a heatsink on my t-amp chip I feel like it's been able to give a little more oomph before giving up. But I might be imagining that. We should get panomaniac to do THD tests at different chip temps...
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th October 2007, 06:00 AM   #19
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
I'm powering my audio nirvana 10's off the little t-amp and it's more than enough for anything I plan to do in this little room. I wouldn't use it in my living room to power my towers though
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
dimentions of speaker box in speaker spec sheet? Dan2 Car Audio 2 6th February 2009 05:34 AM
Driver combinations - An Scanspeak Design harrisni Multi-Way 16 10th August 2007 01:05 PM
FS: Niles HDS-6L speaker selector w/ speaker protection. Spasticteapot Swap Meet 0 27th May 2006 11:14 PM
New Ribbon Speaker Technology - Approach the perfect speaker? cocolino Planars & Exotics 49 16th January 2005 10:12 PM
Pi Speaker Reviews/or Similar Speaker G4ME Multi-Way 4 17th June 2003 12:26 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:34 PM.

Page generated in 0.11037993 seconds (84.91% PHP - 15.09% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2010 diyAudio