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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 13th April 2005, 02:42 AM   #11
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
Default Off board caps

I am with you. I pull my apart too much. This is why I have lived with the crappy 2.2 ufd ceramics.
I hope to build some with 2.2 ufd film caps in the near future. But for now the ceramics are what it is.
The pad for the input coupling caps are just so tiny. Guess the method of shorting the inductors and coupling, removing the shunt resistiors and caps is best. Then you can you the input holes to mount to.

George
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Old 13th April 2005, 06:07 AM   #12
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
Default Re: Off board caps

Quote:
Originally posted by Panelhead
I am with you. I pull my apart too much. This is why I have lived with the crappy 2.2 ufd ceramics.
I hope to build some with 2.2 ufd film caps in the near future. But for now the ceramics are what it is.
The pad for the input coupling caps are just so tiny. Guess the method of shorting the inductors and coupling, removing the shunt resistiors and caps is best. Then you can you the input holes to mount to.

George
I agree here as well. However, I'm going to be honest -- don't waste your time stripping and doing the input mods off board. I really don't think that the improvement is worth it, nor is the pain. I'm pretty convinced that there's 3 ways to do it:

1) Go with the lower value black gates. This is easy, since they fit on board with little problem.

2) Run some small jumpers via fine wires to your film caps (maybe some 63v MKP's or something)

3) Go for some 1uF or 3uF boxed stacked film caps. Those, too, will probably fit on the board, similar to the blackgates.

Based on my own experience of toasting one board, and not hearing that much of an improvement on the other (i.e. after yanking off all the highpass stuff, etc.), I think it's better to just leave that stuff on with the SI's.
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