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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion |
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#11 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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Ok, I'm a newb so I'm gonna ask a couple noob questions. What will the effects be of removing R1/R2 and why are they there? Also, I know L1/L2 is part of a low pass filter, but why are they there?
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#12 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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![]() Quote:
George, Why not pull R01/02 and C3/4. Then lay a 10k resistor across each channel of your volume control to ground, followed by your 4.7uF cap? If you're not using a volume control, you can always mount the resistor across your RCAs. |
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#13 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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motherone, your a genious! Ok, so this is what I'm gonna do.....
R1/R2 Remove and place external 10k resistors across RCA terminals L1/L2 Remove and jumper C3/C4 Remove, jumper, and place external elecltrolytics in line with input from RCA terminals. Does this sound ok? Am I missing anything? TIA |
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#14 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Houston
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Quote:
George |
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#15 | ||
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Quote:
I'm going to remove R01/R02 and C3/C4. My signal path will then be: RCA Jack -> 10k noble pot -> 10k 1% dale between pot out and ground -> 4.7uF Solen poly cap -> input on board L1/L2 along with C1/C2 are probably not neccessary. They seem to prevent RF from coming into the amp, if I'm not mistaken? This isn't specified in the datasheet. Maybe it was something added by SI in order to prevent RF from coming through the little crappy plastic box they put it in. Quote:
I agree, but the solder pads are very very weak. I've already lifted 1 pad and 1 trace -- I would bring them to the input and jumper the unneccessary parts on the board. At least the input pads are fairly beefy considering the size of the board. |
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#16 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Oh, almost forgot, what type of electrolytics are you using, Anonymous? Most folks are of the opinion that electrolytics are very bad in the signal path. You should take a look for at least some 2uF poly caps. These can be purchased even at radio shack (though they bend you over for it). These would probably sound alot better than electrolytics.
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#17 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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Well, success at last. I removed or relocated all but C1/C2 and and the little amp is workin just fine. So does it sound better with these input mods? Who knows..... was that really the whole point of this experiment?
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BTW, should I just go all the way and remove C1/C2 also? Is high frequencies on the input really that big of a problem with a good source? |
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#18 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Quote:
Do you have an unmodified amp to compare it to? |
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#19 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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Yes and no. I didn't mod any of the electronics on board, but its in a new enclosure with all new wiring soldered in. I guess I could do a side by side comparison, but unless there is a profound difference in the sound I'm afraid my lead ears won't be able to tell. A bit more low end is pretty much all I was hoping for.
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#20 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Quote:
![]() I wonder how many folks I made cringe with that statement! |
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