Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications

[jkeny]

I found it easy to solder a 1200uf 16V Panasonic FC cap directly at power pins of SI chip and still use the regular case - just solder pos lead of cap to smd caps(there are two which connect through a via to the power pins) on bottom of board and neg cap lead to solder heatsink which is spread all around chip.

By mounting this cap on its side it is low enough to fit in the standard case!

This positioning givesd as close a position to SI power pins as is possible and probably leads to lower inductance, etc as is possible - no bas thing ala chipamp forum

John

[bundee1]

Complete noob here. Do you guys have any pics and places to buy cases? Do you also have pics on how to replace the most easily replaceable parts. I read that some of the caps can be pulled out and new ones just snapped in place. Did I read that correctly?

I will be using Athena AS-B1 90db 8ohm speakers in a 10x12 bedroom.

Thanks for all the help.

[motherone]

There's 3 types of cases I've seen used for these if you don't want to roll your own.

1) Hammond Aluminum 1455 series case: http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455.htm (these are available at most of the major electronics distributors: digikey, mouser and parts-express)

2) Par-metal: http://www.par-metal.com/ (most folks use the 20-xxxxx series cases)

3) Context Engineering: http://www.contextengineering.com/ (available locally at the Fry's Electronics in my area).

I'm sure there are others, but these are the main three I'm familiar with. If you poke around the in the other SI threads, you'll find folks have posted pictures and/or answers to your other questions.

[bundee1]

Thanks motherone. Is there an enclosure that would house both the T-amp board and SLA battery?

[motherone]

Some of the larger par-metals probably would:

http://www.par-metal.com/plist.htm

20-08125x 33.50 30.20 27.20 24.50 8W x 12D x 4.75H

You might be able to go with a smaller box, depending on how big your SLA is. Take a look at that page and see which one would suit you best.

Otherwise you might want to poke around on head-fi.com .. I think they have a list on there somewhere of about 20 different case manufacturers for DIYers.

[D0Hbert]

As per Tripath Technical information for the 2024, pin 7 (overloadB) is a 5 volt lofic output, which at low level indicates an overload in the input signal causing distortion, however, this pin can't directly drive a LED, does anyone have an idea how to implement a "buffer circuit" to drive a LED? Thanks.

[sx881663]

The attached circuit would be as simple as you can get and still do the job. I have no idea how much current the OL pin can deliver in the high state so the 22k res may need to be adjusted some.
Roger

[D0Hbert]

Thanks for taking time out in doing the schematic, appreciate it.

[PCHuggs]

I've started my T-Amp odyssey a bit late compared to you guys. I really appreciate the path that you have blazed for the rest of us. I've decided to do some modest modifications including:

Case
Connectors
Potentiometer
Power Supply
Input Capacitors

I feel that this will not stress my modest skills with the soldering iron and still give me the most return on investment.

So far I've performed some plastic surgery (case removal), hooked it up to my Astron power supply and some Acoustech HT75 (BIC) towers (Klipsch wannnabees). My first listening experience was horrible. I played some Mozart on a portable CD player. It was so noisy I almost couldn't listen. I was very disappointed. Then the piece ended and sweet silence enveloped me......... (c8 The CD was the culprit. The sound is so good that you will hear things that have been hiding up to this point. If you use an MP3 player, be prepared to start re-encoding your music at higher bit rates!

I'm wondering if someone can answer a few questions I have regarding the replacement of the input capacitors.......

Motherone suggested bridging both C3 & C4. He also stated that he'll connect the new capacitors directly to the RCA input jacks. I assume that they are connected to the input jack traces. After looking at Panomaniac's schematic (which is somewhat different from the SI data sheet), I'm wondering if it will matter that the new input caps will be in a different position in relation to R01, C1, L1 and the Potentiometer? This certainly seems easier than trying to replace the existing SM devices, but I don't want to assume anything with my Jr. High level electronics background.





Best regards,
PCH

[sx881663]

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...880#post571880

In this post (#21 in this thread) there is a drawing of the input circuit. As can be seen if you jumper out c3, c4 you will be connecting r01, r02 directly to the input. This causes a DC offset and will shut the chip down. The solution is to remove these resistors and jumper out the caps at the same time. Then put the quality 2.2uf film caps from the volume control wipers to the input connector on the board. The easiest way to do this is to find the wires from the volume control PCB that connect to the main board and cut them in the middle, splicing in the caps there.
Roger