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Old 14th September 2009, 02:57 AM   #631
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Originally Posted by Sharkythefrog View Post
Or just use a 75 Ohm antenna cable for each single wire in the construction. Connect the shield to its inside wire only on the "sending side" of the signal. Ex left input live will have the shield connected at the connector side, and its "zero" will have the shiled connected at the board side.

Much easier than building your own shield - better shield and better sound. (even if its not as good sounding as a four twinned cable).
I don't quite understand this. can anyone explain?
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Old 14th September 2009, 03:31 AM   #632
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Originally Posted by speaker View Post
Glad to see you are still posting panomaniac!
Thanks! I'm still around. I read but don't post much here. Don't want to stifle the creativity! There are so many good ideas here now.

And anyway, I'm up to my armpits in T-Amps already. It's not as much "fun" for me as it used to be.
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Old 20th September 2009, 06:30 AM   #633
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I'm about done with my amp. Will post up some pictures for references soon. I did the stealth mod, and it turned out very well, except i accidentally removed a neighbouring SM cap, and it took me half an hour to find it cos i dropped it on the floor, and another half an hour to solder it back. phew. Very low static noise, nice bass gains.

But still, how do i ground the board to the casing???
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Old 20th September 2009, 08:54 AM   #634
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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I see that these 5066's are still available used on Amazon ($70 wow). I am suprised that there are still any around. I modded a few a few years ago. I have just taken an original SI out of a case so that I can use it for something else. It has the Classic mod done on it. If anyone wants it send me a PM to discuss.
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Old 20th September 2009, 09:05 AM   #635
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Originally Posted by GR8FLPT View Post
Is there a place where all the mods besides classic & stealth mods are in just one list/spot (like 1 page instead of all over the place) with a link to pics (yea I'm asking a lot) I have been going over this thread of 60 + pages & the links to the other threads & pages.
Just when I think I have it all nailed down, I find some other mod that someone is trying.
I second the sentiment.

I just bought a Dayton DTA-1 amp, which is a duplicate of the original SI t-amp. And I read 60+ pages of lots of info over years. At this point, I have nothing nailed down perfectly in my battle plan either.

I don't see much reference to PSU upgrades. It seems that's the main limiter in perfomance too.
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Old 27th September 2009, 11:57 AM   #636
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3 days of work. with all that can go wrong went wrong.

...finally it's done...

with it's trends 10.1 on top.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

a look at its guts. upgraded with alps. 2 new input caps. 2xpanasonic fm (1600uF 16V). Initially i soldered 1 onto the board. it was too tall and i couldn't close the casing. it took 1 hours of surgery to get it out and put 2 by the side with all the wires set.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

the volume knob led.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

i wouldn't recommend such massive mods to a board so DIY unfriendly.
list of screwups:
1) accidentally ripped off a SMT cap (think it was c6).
2) ripped off the led pads, all 3 of them. led was soldered to the power terminals and switch.
3) melted the led 1k5 load resistor.
4) led leads not insulated from casing. blew 2 of them.
5) when finally everything is fixed, couldn't close the casing cause the new pana FM cap sits too high.

after so much mods, it must therefore sound nice. i think. but can't really remember how it used to sound like. nevertheless, it looks nicer now.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 22nd November 2009, 04:13 PM   #637
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Location: London

I managed to break the input pad and C62 on a rev. D board. Does anyone ha a diagram of this board or the value for this cap? Is the stealth mod going to bypass this cap too?

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