Zappulse PSU wiring problem

[Lars Clausen]

wytco: Do you mean a drawing of the PSU board and ZAPpulse modules, instead of the photo of them?

I will make this wiring diagram, when i get home if you find it helpful.

All the best

Lars

[wytco0]

Lars, drawing or a photo with annotations just saying what each connection is would be brilliant. I would do it myself but I dont know what I am doing !

If there was a photo or diagram showing each connector and stating what connects to it I would be able to work with the schematic but thats is missing at the moment.

[ewildgoose]

Lars, I'm sorry, but I'm sitting in limbo a little here. Could you perhaps review my message with my "bag of bits" and suggest a best course of action please...?

Thanks

Ed

[Lars Clausen]

Ed: OK, it's not that bad.

1..Hook up your 2 secondaries to the good predator PSU.
2..Then remove the 2 rectifiers (RS808) from the faulty board.
3..Place one predator PSU in each side of the enclosure close to each ZAPpulse module.
4..Connect the two boards on the DC side, using the leftopen ZAPpulse pad's on each PSU. (There is pads for two modules, but you only use one).
5..Depending on if you are using the gate drive or not, also connect that.

Go

Lars

[Duck-Twacy]

Personally I think the Cookbook on the LCaudio site is very good. Why not just add a chapter how to connect it to the Predator or virtual 4 pole PS?

Anyway I hav a question too (for Lars, hope Ed doesn't mind to much)

If I have two 1000VA/45 VAC toroids, is it then not better to use 2 Predators (with the 80V caps) and a sync module (to avoid the mono block problems)?

I want to use the Zaps for a bass amps btw (130L sealed enclosures with 12" Lambda's). I need good basscontrol and a lot of power (speakers are 85 db/w/m).

[Lars Clausen]

wytco0: Do you mean something like this?

[Lars Clausen]

Duck Twacy: yes exactly, that would be the best.

[ewildgoose]

Aha, I see. So basically, it would be even easier (and identical) if I took the caps off one of the boards, and just left the first board in place, then take the DC lines out the good board, into the caps, and from there onto the board? (Presumably the ground is still needing to be joined between the two caps on both sides, or rather that point becomes my ground on the caps-only side, and I join it to the ground on the board side?)

OK, so basically, your suggestion for best design can be simpified further to: single/pair of rectifiers to get our DC, then wires can be of arbitrary length as long as we have a pair of caps just before the boards...

Now, as for my predator boards, I seem to have damaged both of them unfortunately. It's not clear whether I will have damaged the amp modules either though (since I foolishly had them wired up when I first tested the PS... Learned a lesson there huh!)

Testing the predator boards, shows a circuit to ground from any of the AC inputs. I suspect that all the rectifiers are blown...? Would the small caps, etc also likely to be damaged?

Thanks Lars

Edit: With regards to builders notes as suggested by the previous poster. This silly mistake really comes from trying to implement dual mono power supplies without having understood the issues of a dual rail power supply. Perhaps it might be worth adding a quick note to the effect of "Stop, look, think" to try and help any one else avoid doing what I did...?

[Duck-Twacy]

Thank you Lars (do you always work on a Sunday or is it hobby now )

[ewildgoose]

Duck-Twacy: Basically, what you are describing is what I was trying to do, foolishly though without adding the second torroid... I had assumed that a single torroid paralleled to the two boards would be enough...

I do have a sync module available, but what is the "mono-block" problem that you allude to?