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Old 30th October 2004, 05:24 PM   #11
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Location: The Lab
Ed: If you had a fuse in your primary, you will most probably not have destroyed anything.

If you are going to use 2 PSU's then parallel them after the bridges instead.

All the best from

Lars
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Old 30th October 2004, 05:35 PM   #12
fcel is offline fcel  United States
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: LA County
Lars,
I might be interested in your amp. Couple of questions:
1. How much is 1 Euro equal to US dollars?
2. How much would you estimate for a 2 ch amp with everything except the case, jack and speaker binding post?
3. For a 2 ch amp, what are the items that I need to order.
4. Does the amp has balanced input?
5. Is it really true that it can drive Apogee Scintilla speakers with ease?
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Old 30th October 2004, 05:50 PM   #13
wytco0 is offline wytco0  United Kingdom
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hastings
Lars, Thanks for the link however I have seen that before, the problem is that it isnt documentation for beginners

In particular :-

It does not say what the connections are, there are 2 blocks marked trafo 1 and 2 (or similar) each has 4 connectors, what are they? what wire should go into each? What is each individual connection?

Ther is another block with 2 connectors, what is that for?

There are no markings on the board for DC connections, what are they?

I wanted to use a centre tap transformer, can that be done? if so how?

Sorry if this all seems basic stuff but I have not been able to work it out even looking at the pictures from your web site.

What would be excellent for me is a simple annotated picture showing which wire goes where for each of the different inputs and the same for each of the outputs. What I am suggestion would take at most one sheet of A4 and could be on the website as a download. It would make a huge difference to me.

So it should explain how to connect the AC with a single transformer, with two transformers and hopefully with a centre tap transformer and in addition how to connect the DC.
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Old 30th October 2004, 07:45 PM   #14
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: London
Quote:
Originally posted by Lars Clausen
Ed: If you had a fuse in your primary, you will most probably not have destroyed anything.
Hopefully true. I had a fast blow fuse in the amp, and plenty of standard slow blow fuses (plus the distribution board rcd things).

However, I measure a circuit to earth on these two PS boards from any of the AC inputs. On a space predator board I don't measure this... This is why I suspected some damage?

Quote:

If you are going to use 2 PSU's then parallel them after the bridges instead.
Bearing in mind that we are talking about your predator PS boards, does this effectively mean parallelling out the DC outputs?

You can see half my amp in the picture before. Basically, there is another setup the same on the flip side. There is only space for one transformer, and even fitting in two PS supplies is a little tight. To parallel the DC outputs I would have to have quite long wires across to the opposite modules (about 28cm).

If I go with a single predator PS then I will still have to have quite long DC wires to reach each side of the case (16cm or so).

So with the above info, what's my best alternative here? (Oh, and it's my big IB sub amp, so having a fairly stiff PS would be useful)

Thanks
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Old 30th October 2004, 07:50 PM   #15
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: The Lab
fcel:
1..1 Euro is roughly 1$ 20 cents. You can also get the prices in USD on our
website, by selecting USD on the left bar, and hitting the Change button. (Or any other currency).

2..Around 660 USD with everything.

3..2 modules, 1 predator PSU, 1 transformer 500 VA that's it.

4..Yes

5..I believe so, you have to disable the protection circuit though (see how on our 'need to know' page about zappulse on www.lcaudio.com)

wytco: The 4 connections are for connecting the 2 secondary windings in the progress similar to the way you would draw it on a piece of paper.
A tooid always has 2 secondary windings, not a center tap, unless it is made artificially inside the transformer.
See also the schematic.

A center tapped transformer is not compatible with our power supply, sorry. Use a double secondary transfomer instead.

Best regards

Lars
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Old 30th October 2004, 07:52 PM   #16
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Ed: yes your best option is to parallel the two outputs even if there s a long wire in between the power supplies. As long as there is a short wire from the capacitors to the modules, everything is fine.


Lars

BTW how about starting a ZAPpulse Q&A page instead?
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Old 30th October 2004, 08:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lars Clausen
Ed: yes your best option is to parallel the two outputs even if there s a long wire in between the power supplies. As long as there is a short wire from the capacitors to the modules, everything is fine.
You are giving me half the answer here...

I can't really see how it would make sense to do what you describe? The whole point of the predator board is to stick the caps on it... By the time I parallel the outputs of the rectifiers on these boards, then desolder the caps to place them closer... Actually, hang on, I'm not thinking straight, how am I going to wire up the two boards in the first place anyway?

Look, lets start again. My bag of bits is as follows:

2 Zappulse
1 case: 30cm wide with 1 zappulse on each side (want to leave it like this)
1 1000Kva transformer with 2 secondaries
2 Predator PSU supplies with 15,000 caps (possibly broken)

[also available, enough (4) rectifiers and 10,000 caps from Jan-Peter to build some PS supplies)

So to start again, can I get your recommendations to wire these things up please? I'm just a bit stumped since my original design is clearly flawed

Thanks
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Old 30th October 2004, 09:42 PM   #18
wytco0 is offline wytco0  United Kingdom
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Lars, thanks for that but it still does not answer my questions about the DC nor the need for a basic bit of documentation. You obviously don't think its needed but I still do. However it looks as though it wont happen. I wont say any more about it but I do think its a shame.
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Old 30th October 2004, 10:02 PM   #19
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wytco0: You are right that a straightforward wiring diagram might be nice. But to be honest, it you have those pictures and the circuit diagram, then the rest is not too hard to figure out.

You can see most of the traces by looking at the back or front of the board. The only tricky ones really are the gate drive connections.

In answer to your question though: AC input you can see by looking at the traces on the board and the photos. The DC outputs are two sets of +ve, ground and -ve. The -ve connection has a second hole above it which is the gate drive. So to be clear, that's two sets of three holes across the bottom of the board.

So are you clear now?


P.S. When you buy a bag of rectifiers and caps from RS you don't get a wiring diagram from them either. Please don't beat Lars up too much over this. Perhaps you would be interested in writing this info up if you find it useful..?
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Old 30th October 2004, 10:48 PM   #20
wytco0 is offline wytco0  United Kingdom
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ewildgoose, I am sure your right but you are assuming I know more than I do, Some of us are happy to connect modules together but not to do more complex things like build circuits from discrete componants.

Over the years I have bought a few modules from different suppliers and they normally have a single sheet giving the inputs and outputs, thats all I want and need.

As I said earlier I have already made all these points to LC and they have chosen to leave things as they are, that's is their choice and its my choice not to buy their products in future.

If I have upset anyone, in particular Lars or anyone at LC then I apologize that was not my intension.
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