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#111 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Bruno,
OK, thats what I meant: using the shield as the third lead. Thanks. Can I use any 'microphone' cable? Or can/should I use an audio interconnect cable? Frans |
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#112 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: BE/NL/RW/ZA
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Quote:
Good microphone cable is a shielded twisted pair with added measures against acoustic noise pickup (such as cotton fillers or a supple semi-serve shield). Such cables perform better than many "audiophile" cables, which are often incorrectly built, resulting in noticeable colouration (subsequently marketed as "better sound"). |
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#113 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: London
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If you buy it from maplins or the like then they usually also quote the capacitance. I would have thought that the more expensive stuff with lower capacitance was better in general?
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#114 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: BE/NL/RW/ZA
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Quote:
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#115 |
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diyAudio Member
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in my experience Prefer has some very decent balanced microphone cable. the the outer shield is *Very* thick and densely woven copper.
I'm currently using a diy cable, twisted silvered copper teflon insulated and shielded with the shield of a standard prefer microphone cable. Sounds fine and it's fully BS-proof... ![]() http://www.prefer-ummels.com
__________________
Si fractum non sit, noli id reficere! |
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#116 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Charlotte,NC,USA
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Jan-Peter,
Since some of us are not as lucky as FransDHT, to be able to visit the factory........how about some photographs of the assembly line and test area. I bet some of would like to know what goes on in the manufacturing process.................. Regards, Jam (Still waiting for the UCD700/1000) |
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#117 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: -
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Jam,
We have just moved to our new company building. Quit unpleasant to moving a complete company to a new location When we are complete settled I will show more photos on our website, www.hypex.nl . However you can see how the place looks 3 weeks ago...... I am also waiting till I get some time for the UcD700 (UcD1000). We already have some internal discussion for a 2KW UcD Regards, Jan-Peter |
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#118 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Well, I made a drawing of the box I have ordered to see how it all will fit in, but it is not very big. Inside measures are 23cm by 36cm by 7 cm.
The front and back are aluminium (4mm and 2.5mm) and the sides are cooling profiles. The size of the transformers is quite big (r=7cm), so there is little room to put the UcD400's. Best would be if I could put them all at the back (or the front) panel, but would that be enough cooling? Will the heat flow to the cooling profiles? The other option is to put two modules above each other on each side and one at the back. Will two above each other not result in heat problems? I could get a bigger box at the same adress, but that would only be higher (3HE) and I don't want that. Or should I look for another box somewhere else, and get a deeper one? Where should I look (in the Netherlands) in that case?. Frans |
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#119 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Hi (Bruno, Jan-Peter),
To make things clearer, this are the options: First one at the back and two above each other on the sides. Taht leaves just enough room for the connectors, but will the modules above each other not become to hot? Frans |
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#120 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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And this is the orther, all of them at the back (not in line, because there is not enough room). Same problem: will the heat be carried away enough?
Frans |
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